I know this has probably been adressed a lot but i have some more questions. When i first got my fronty lifted i could clear 33s with ease but now they rub a little. So i did some trimming and they dont rub at all anymore. I have a 3" sl, 1/2 ball joint spacers, and a 3" bl, i ordered some new fenders to get more room but i want to clear 35s and i am not sure if i can with the fenders. any other suggestions on how to get the front up more without a SAS or something of that sort. anyone cleared 35s with the fiberglass fenders?

orange4ska has 35s on his pathy with only a 3inch bl and ACs 2.5 suspension lift...He CUT the crap out of the fenders...that would be the only way. IMO. Ive been thinking about the fiberglass idea my self(for 33) but cutting would be much easier and looks fine if done right. I have a pic somewhere if i can find it.

i dont really want to cut anymore than i already have, i have ac control arms, are there any other arms like slr or calmini that are better or can give me a little bit more of a lift?

You can see how much he cut here...

the cutting is so inconspicuous if you do it right....even iwth both lifts my 33s rubbed so i had to cut it back more....i bet i could keep goin for 35s

but to answer your question its the flares or some sort of custom lift cuz your out of options

The other UCA's won't make much of a difference. If you're running ball joint spacers, you're probably at your limit now without binding the CV's.

You could always go to ultra-low UCA bumpstops and do a diff drop and keep cranking on the t-bars, but that's taking IFS to its extreme limits.

Regards,

-matt

Richardz_nc, just like SuperV3K said; you may want to consider installing a front differential lowering kit from SLR Click Here, I have it on my 01 Frontier and it works great. It lowers the whole front differential 5/8" of an inch using off-center mounting bushings, by doing this it will help greatly reduce the high angles of the CVs and also reduce the stress on the joints as well. After completing the install inturn you can then turn the t-bars up even higher for more clearance. In addition to the differential lowering kit make sure you install some ultra low bump stops too.

I did the SLR drop kit as well as dual lifts and im running fine on 33' mud terrains. There is a significant amount of cutting involved though but you can make it look good.

wheel backspacing and width has a lot to do with rubbing tires

Yup, it also depends on how hard you run your truck. If you are stuffing tires all the time then you need to cut alot, whereas if you mall crawl, then you dont need to cut as much.

Basically figure out what works best for you and how you want to design your truck, then decide which combinations of options are best for you.

eh i wouldnt say that much....well maybe youre right - i tend to think i mall crawl but on AZ4 i didnt have any rubbin issues...but i see where youre commin from

well I wasnt pointing anybody out, I just mean in general if you are puttin around town you dont need to cut as much as if you crawelin up a mountain.

If you really want 35's, SAS the truck. There just isn't the fender clearance on a D22 to run this and have full suspension/steering cycling without rubbing. Regardless of lift, you still have a lot of up travel that causes the rub.

I have ultra low bump stops on the bottom lower control arms, can i get lower ones for the top? and if so where? i have gone to a lot of part stores and none carry smaller than the stock ones, anyone help me out? Thanks

Energy Suspension has some ultra low UCA bumpstops, part #9.9132.

I just put the low pro ones on, part #9.9102.

I ordered mine thru Checker Auto Parts, took two days to get, about $9 for the pair.

A trick for putting them on:

After removing the current b/s, reach into the frame with the nut and hold it against the opening that the b/s stud will go thru. Get the b/s started on the nut as much as you can by hand (it won't be but a couple threads due to the nylock nut).

Get yourself a heavy duty rubber band (like what brocolli or asparagus is banded together with). Use the rubber band around the circumference of the b/s like you would opening a stuck jar, for grip.

Hold the nut with a 14mm wrench, and twist the b/s until nice and snug. Will take a bit, but was pretty easy. Once you go to put them on, you'll see what I mean - it's hard to get a grip on the b/s.

Regards,

-matt