How much of a difference in height is there between stock torsion bars and AC torsion bars??

I was thinking what if I just purchase the A-arm and raised the truck two inches up front with stock torsion bars. Good/bad???




GOT ANY BALLS??????????

No difference. The difference is in the indexing and preload on the torsion bars. That's what adjusts ride height. Simply changing torsion bars has no bearing on ride height; how they're adjusted is where all the difference is. Torsion bars twist - that's how the spring action works on them. If you pull the rear anchor, rotate it a few splines, you are REINDEXING the torsion bars and they'll move the lower control arm downward or upward depending on which way you reindex. Then the ride height can be fine tuned with the adjustment bolt.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock
"Conjunction Junction, what's your Dysfunction?"

sorry andy but that is all greek to me. Is it safe to raise the truck 3" with the use of the a-arm and not the aftermarket torsion bars???




GOT ANY BALLS??????????

It will be fine if you do not upgrade them. Especially since they are new. Upgrading them only stiffens your suspension which will help keep your susp from bottoming out while offroad.

What Duerk said. The aftermarket bars give you stiffer springs. Yes, you can safely lift using stock torsion bars and aftermarket A-arms, but I highly recommend the bars, as stock Tbars are too soft IMO.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock
"Conjunction Junction, what's your Dysfunction?"

okey, now I am starting to fill in the gap on what I dont know.....

okey, here goes for my custom lift list.

100 bucks SLR a-arm (still waiting for actual price)
40 bucks SLR diff drop

240 bucks AC 3" body lift
185 bucks AC revolving shackle (1.5" lift)
50 bucks AC limiting strap

This should provide me roughly 4.5" of lift. and if I want to go higher, all I then have to do is just get AAL and crank the t-bars some more. As long as I have sufficient room to run some narrow 32" swampers, I will be happy.

That right there puts the cost at 600 bucks (not including shocks). So all would be left then is getting new shocks, which cannot be determined until the lift is installed and rear travel is measured.




GOT ANY BALLS??????????

That sounds about right.

When you keep the factory Tbars and crank them up, they will sag faster than new, better Tbars.

My front end is dropping back down again. It's about 1/4" lower than it was after I cranked them up about 2 years ago.

Mr. Will

|1992 SE-V6 4x4, 2001 LE 3.5|
http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/pickalbum?W92PathSE

92path, I assume as much it will results quicker sagging. But being on a budget, I am trying to be as cheap as I can but still be safe.

I dont mind next summer buying SLR torsion bars.




GOT ANY BALLS??????????

I bet yours would last a pretty good while, considering they're new. I've got nearly 11 years on mine

Mr. Will

|1992 SE-V6 4x4, 2001 LE 3.5|
http://www.netsnapshot.com/pcw/pickalbum?W92PathSE

good point....




GOT ANY BALLS??????????

The SLR diff lowering kit is $150, not $40. You'll need to have the old bushings pressed out. The $40 you saw is for a press tool.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock
"Conjunction Junction, what's your Dysfunction?"

Also I am not sure, but I doubt the a-arms are $100. ACs are $200 so I would venture to gues SLRs would be more like $400.

I talked to SLR earlier today and they will be getting back to me on Monday. Basically, it looks like I am going to be purchasing the SLR stage one suspension kit. There is no cheaper or alternative way of doing this (after breaking down the prices between shocks, UCA, AAL, ect). I have forgotton prices of shocks can add up well over the 300 dollar mark. Buying the UCA and shocks seperately ran damn near 600 bucks (this is way off of what I originally estimated). Given that and the prices I was quoted earlier doesn't work in my favor so I figured I might as well as get the full stage one kit.

The only dilema in all of this is the rear shocks with the use of revolving shackle. I am hoping Spencer will allow me to exchange the rear shocks that comes standard with the stage I kit for longer travel shocks. The standard shock supplies appx 10" of travel and I am looking for something closer to 14". There shouldn't be a problem, but he wants to make sure there's a Blisten 5000 series shock with 14" travel.

SO, if all goes well and he approves the exchange of shocks, I will be good to go. 1300 bucks will cover it all plus whatever Mikey want to charge for labor. 850 for slr stage one (incl shocks), 185 for revolving shackle, & 240 for 3" body lift.




GOT ANY BALLS??????????