Is it as easy as getting under there and unbolting them?

mine were a PITA. only do one at a time, i attempted both at once and had to drop the front diff

on a hardbody it's not terribly hard. Just tight working areas. If you have a body lift it's be much easier.

You will need to support the engine some way. I would get a cheery picker and wrap a chain around the engine. In no way is the oil pan strong enough to hold the weight of the engine.

quote:

In no way is the oil pan strong enough to hold the weight of the engine.

Body lift does make it easier. Much easier.

Use a block of wood to move the engine up, the pan will hold it.....

Loosen the 3 bolts first. The bottom ones are hard to get a wrench on - a drop angle box wrench works best.

I used a block of wood off the alternator bracket to do the driver side one. IT's a little tricky and might require some trial and error.

Typcally the passenger side mount doesn't break. Is that one bad too?

Crunk, it is much easier to do it after tbe body lift (if your going to be doing it soon), or better yet, at the time of your body lift. I have used Andy's method and used a block of wood against the alternator bracket to lift that side of the engine.
I also took this opportunity to claim I needed to buy myself the ratcheting wrenches.

Oh, looking at putting my H233b axle under my truck on the 21st, are you still interested in my C200 w/ARB? Might be able to move it out from under mine and right under yours.

To be honest, I don't know hot to tell if they're broken. I looked at the driver side from the wheel well, and just stared at it. The dealer told me both sides are broken.

Bob, I'll be in Vegas on the 19-22nd. My birthday is tomorrow and we're going for that.

To see if it is busted you could

1) Check your fan shroud for scrapes from the fan blade. Gouges there would indicate the motor mount isn't holding and your motor is moving around when you give it throttle. You may even be able to see it lift and twist if you goose the throttle by hand at the manifold with the hood up and the motor running.

2) Lift at the alternator bracket with a bottle jack and block(s) to see if the motor mount separates - the top will rise up if it is busted.

3) Wedge a big old pry bar in and heave-ho to see if the top of the motor mount moves up.

I doubt your motor mount is bad considering how new it is. My motor mounts are still good. Probably wont stay that way for long.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:
I doubt your motor mount is bad considering how new it is. My motor mounts are still good. Probably wont stay that way for long.

do you have any idea how many driver side D22 motor mounts have broken?

They pop real easy. Almost everyone I know with a V6 D22 has done motor mounts at least once.

Yeppers... my 04 Fronty is on its 3rd driver mount.

Nope, whats the difference in design? Does the 3.3 put out that much more torque.

Motor mounts are not on the top of my to-do list. I do plan to buy new motor mounts and weld on some links of chain. Catch is they cost $100ea.

abc nissan quoted me $85.00. Someone said that you can replace them with the pathfinder w/ the VG series engine motor mounts; they're the same size/shape, and hold up a little better, and are much, much cheaper.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:
I doubt your motor mount is bad considering how new it is. My motor mounts are still good. Probably wont stay that way for long.

x2 what andy said. Not to mention, I learned the hard way, not to beat the living shit out of this truck. Ha, it's not quite trail ready, out of the box.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mud:
To see if it is busted you could

2) Lift at the alternator bracket with a bottle jack and block(s) to see if the motor mount separates - the top will rise up if it is busted.
[QUOTE]

-would this be a good indicator for both passenger and driver side mounts?

The Crow bar would be able to check both sides but I bet its just the drivers side mount.

I am on my 4th drivers side mount. Passenger side is still stock.