I've heard of that being done. Not sure how much machining work it would require though.

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Update,

The modified centerlink has withstood another weekend of wheeling.

A few of us from UXOC are doing a day trip to Moab next Friday. We are running Kane Creek canyon, I'll let you know how it goes.


"Life isn't about gas mileage"

definitely keep us posted....

Question: Why cant the stock CL upgrade be done to both sides? Thickness looks pretty much the same...or maybe not. I'm I missing something.

I don't know how it is on a Pathy but on the X and Frontier the ball joint side (drivers side) is only .750 inch thick where as the bushed side is 1.250 inches thick after machining the top for disassembly. It looks thicker due to the boot on the ball joint.

You could do one rod end bearing but that would be the same as a ball joint any way.

Hopefully the way I have it now will be adequate without reinventing the wheel or spendind a ton of money.

I've taken it out and given it some serious abuse and it is holding up great. It is as tight now as when I put it on.


"Life isn't about gas mileage"

TK1 wheeled his modified centerlink pretty hard on Friday (intentionally trying to get it to fail) and it held up really well! I like his solution (specially if you are on a tight budget) and would add that it is not just a band-aid!

Videos to come soon!

Seems to me a much better idea than U bolting plates between the CL and frame. We're waiting for the full how to so we can post it up on the site.

Glad to hear it's holding up!


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock

is the how-to going to be for frontiers and xterras only or are the pathy and hb's gonna have a write up too? I don't know if the cl's are the same setup on all of em so excuse the ignorance.

------------------------------
92 Pathy Se-v6
3in body lift

I'm going to go out on a limb and say it would work for either.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock

I can only talk for the 4 wheel drive Xterra and Frontier. I haven't checked out a HB/Pathfinder front end to know.

If the centerlink is basically the same design then it should work the same. There just needs to be enough material.

I'm super busy this week so I doubt I'll be able to do the write up until next week. When I do write it, it will include dimensioned drawings and a cut away view of both the stock and modified versions.

As fastdrmr stated I beat the hell out of it in Moab on Friday and the only thing I ended up replacing was a tire. The center link is still solid.

I've been running it without my stabilizer for now but the stabilizer is going back on tonight and the abuse/testing will continue.


"Life isn't about gas mileage"

Hey TK1, if I sent you my CL and idler arm, would you be willing to do this for a fee? I know I own a Pathy, and it would be a little bit different, and I'm going to a solid front soon, but I'd like to be able to wheel until then...

_____________________________
88 Pathy with some box tube.

I used the mill that we have here at work. I can't really start doing side projects with the companies equipment. Sorry.


"Life isn't about gas mileage"

Mikey, get the parts list and find a local machine shop to do it for you. Bet you can get the machining done for under $100.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock

What exactly are the tapered washers called that you used? Where did you get them? I'm putting in an order at McMaster-Carr right now for the bearings to do my custom setup, and need to know what these are. I'm going to be using 4 bearings of the type that you used with 2 per side.

Thanks

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[This message was edited by datz510 on 07-22-02 at 05:03 PM.]

The tapered washers are actually called spherical washers. there is a male and a female piece. The Mcmastercarr P/N is 91131A080, this P/N is for the set M/F but you only need the male side. You'll probably need 4. The bearings are P/N 63215K38.

Good luck!


"Life isn't about gas mileage"