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Ultimate N4Wheeler
Picture of 92PathSE
Posted
I changed mine out on Friday. Here's a short writeup... This for (W)D21s.

You'll need a good set of tools. Find some big sockets...20mm+. I don't remember exact sizes because they were different on each side.

Having a lift in a climate controlled building helps but it can be done in your driveway I guess. Wink

The FSM says to take off a bunch of parts. AllData wants you to remove different parts. I say...

- Use good jackstands(or a lift), take the front tires off.
- loosen the torsion bars until the adjusters can move freely
- remove shocks
- remove swaybar links
- remove hub (on manuals the face just needs to come off), remove snap ring to allow the CV to slide out later
- loosen/remove lower ball joint nuts/bolts, then beat the joint from the knuckle or use a pickle fork
- remove the four bolts on the upper ball joint and rotate it upwards
- turn the steering to the side you're working on, then pull the hub/disc/caliper out so there's a few inches of room between the CV and inner hub. The shaft will still be inside the hub.
- you'll now have room to move the CV around to remove the 4 LBJ bolts. So do it.
- remove the LBJ by any means. Don't destroy the brake lines.
- Installation is the reverse, but with less frustration Big Grin



Will
 
Posts: 7708 | Location: Georgia | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
Picture of LordBiotree
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When I did mine I just removed knuckle, rotors,hub,caliper. left the shocks and t-bars alone. with the spindle out of the way you have plenty of room to work with.

Gives you time to repack your wheel bearings to.


1995 KC XE-V6 4x4.
 
Posts: 4579 | Location: U.S.A,Tallahassee/Jacksonville, Florida | Registered: June 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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