On a 4wd, 4cyl, 95 HB with a one piece stock driveshaft, how much can you lift the rear and keep a good driveline angle? Will you ever have to make a new crossmember for the rear?

About 4-5" or so

What if you added a Double Cardan between the u-joints like System-F is talking about here Double Cardan?

You will also need to notch your crossmember at some point or build a new one that loops over the top.

That double cardan (cv) i am talking about is to make a stub shaft that has two points of movment since Jove thinks I cannot get away with one unjoint between two transfer cases even though they will be bolted together in a hard-mount.

Thank you for your attention, this now ends the postjacking.

So if I notch out my crossmember and add a double cardine (1310 on each side) to the stock one piece driveshaft this should work right? Any other problems I might run into? If I can avoid buying an SYE kit with a custom driveshaft it will save me about $400.

If you run a CV at the front and a standard u-joint at the rear of the driveshaft, you may need to rotate your rear axle so that the pinion is pointed at the CV joint output. That is the problem I am having right now. I've got a new CV driveshaft but I can't use it. I'm working on getting all the parts together to rotate the axle, do a u-bolt flip, and relocate the rear shocks.

You might want to try and not get the cv right away.

4 inches really isn't a big deal at all. My pathy with a shorter driveshaft and tons o lift has a very, very minor vibe at 20-25 mph. Can't hardly tell.

Try the cheap route first.

I have no CV in my front or rear shafts either.. The only vibes i have are due to my rear bushings being shot and allowing the pinion to rotate upwards a little (will soon be fixed).. and I'm 6" over stock height. Brian's truck is a good 2-3" taller than mine.

FWIW, the STOCK U-joints in the front driveshaft have a phenomenal angle of operation. For the front, try using one of those at the Tcase end first with a standard 1310 on the axle end. The rear has pretty good range of operation as well. As long as you pay attention to your pinion angle, you wont have any vibration issues.

THEN....there's always THIS!!!! :



Tom Wood's NEW Super U-Joint!!!! It allows 5 more inches of travel (on a 30" DS...so just imagine how effective it is with our longer rear driveshaft!!!)from the offset trunions!!!I just got some of these for my Fronty...though I've had NO previous vibrations or problems whatsoever with my SHAFTS!!!! Ahywho.....Hope this helps!!!! Later...

Just my opinion here, but I would not run those on the rear shaft of a daily driver. While yes, they do allow more clearance for the yokes, they compound the issues that make u-joints vibrate at speed. Single u-joints receiving a constant input RPM do not output a constant RPM. The output yoke of the u-joint is constantly speeding up and slowing down at a rapid rate. This is what makes them less desireable than a Constant Velocity (CV) joint for high RPM use. The instantaneous RPM change experienced in the joint is what causes the vibrations in the first place.

Making the line of rotation offset between the two axis of rotation will only serve to amplify the effect of the non-constant velocity operation. This is fine on the front shaft of a trail rig or a DD that does not see 4wd use at high speeds, but will only serve to shorten the life of other drivetrain components if used in the rear. And it could create problems that do not exist right now.