It definitely made a nice paperweight.

Here is what I ordered:

Qty  Part#   Description                    Price
------------------------------------------------------------------
 2  #U/J 5-760X   U-JOINT-AXLE 5-760X DANA 44  replaces 297X  @  $24.00 each
 2  #D44 AXLE 18.5 SPICER   INNER AXLE-EARLY BRONCO F150 F250 72-76 BLAZER  @  $59.00 each
 2  #D44 AXLE 9.94 SPICER   OUTER STUB AXLE-9.94 DANA 44 G.M.  @  $39.00 each
 1  #D44 AXLE 27.94 4340   72-77 BRONCO DANA 44 LONG SIDE FORGED 4340 AXLE  @  $149.00 each
------------------------------------------------------------------
                                        Sub Total: 393.00
                                         Handling: 9.95
                                            Total: 402.95

It'll be nice having two sets of axles. I'm sure I'll break another one. Eventually, I'll work up to a full set of chromolys, but I dont have the $$$ to go that direction right now.

Thanks for the link. That seems to be about the going rate for an axle kit.. the problem is that I cant use Ford EB outers. They must be chevy/GM outers, which are about 1/4" longer than the ford outers, so I have to mix and match to get the right axle combination. The ford outers will work if needed, but the circlip cannot be fitted, so you'll end up with water getting past the axle slinger.

Also, with the chromolys, you really need stronger U joints. Those are generally around $250-400 for a set depending on what you get.

Oops...I knew that. He has all kinds listed I would bet he would make a deal.

I don't think I want to run 4340's. Yesterday I had a conversation with the owner of the 4x4 shop setting up my ARB's. He suggested that the stock shafts are designed to break in a specific place (exactly where yours broke) so that the carrier is not damaged by the broken parts.

He runs a D44 under a old FJ with a 350 and 38's. While he has never broken a stock shaft he has seen the results of people breaking the 4340's. From his description it sounds like the broken end normally gets jammed in to the carrier because it never breaks cleanly. You have to pull carrier to get it out (magnets don't work) and if you are lucky you have only toasted the carrier and the shaft.

Doesn't sound like a very easy trail fix…or a cheap tow it home fix.

no kidding.. I was surprised how easy it was to get the broken piece out of the carrier on mine. The stock shafts have worked fine for me for over 2 years, so until I'm breaking them on every trip, I'll stick with stock (except for the chromoly long side inner I scored).

I was with reddog (from the board here) out in the desert when he shattered his rear axle. It broke into 3 or 4 pieces and required pulling the carrier and locker out where it sat to get the peices removed. I think his was just a stock GM axle, but it was a pretty wild break.

My axle that asploded was a stock chevy 12 bolt axle. It blew up into numerous pieces and got jammed in splines of the locker.

It took me ~4 hours sitting in the creek bed to get it apart. There was enough of the axle sticking out of the carrier that it wouldn't come out even after I pulled the shims. After much hammering it finally came out.

Nothing was permenantly damaged other than the axle, but the carrier did have some deep gouges so I replaced it as a saftey precaution.