My first post here.

I'm buying a 1996 Pathfinder SE (automatic) from a buddy of mine. I have no worry that he's trying to sell me a problem child, but I've never owned a Nissan before.

What should I be expecting to replace? Best fluids for engine/transmission/diffs/transfer case? What are the common problems that I should be looking for? Any documentation from members on how to do common maintenance? Good places to buy OEM parts at low prices?

I'm hoping this rig will last me a good 75k miles without much fuss. I had a Jeep Cherokee before this and I hope the Nissan is nothing like that.

NISSAN SPECIFIC PROBLEM AREAS TO CHECK scroll down on this link, very helpful, I've found it to be spot on for a lot of things.

ABC NISSAN seems to be the popular choice for ppl here but I have also found awesome deals on ebay all the time for my pathfinder.
good upgrades/ mods can be found @ 4x4 PARTS its a nissan offroad parts site.
75k is not much to ask of your new ride. If it runs good now and you take care of it should last. Mine is strong @ over 210k and others on this site will Testify to that

Just a few more thoughts...
In 1996 Nissan released their 2nd generation pathfinders Featuring a unibody construction(body and frame are 1 srtuctural piece) the first gen pathfinders (95 and earlier) were built upon the same chasis as their pickup trucks, featureing (overbuilt) a fully boxed lader body constuction for a frame.
I'm not knocking the 2nd gens, there are many unibody vehicles out there these days, but in my opinon if you wanna build a rugged offrodader the 1st gen body on frame consrtuction is more suitable. I'm sure others will correct me if I'm wrong.

As far as maitenece my first gen is one of the easiest vehicles I've encountered, I'm sure yours won't be much harder. Get a Haynes and Chilton manual (use em 2gether for most info) or a factory maunual if you can find one for cheap, and I take no special care in the fluids I use (exept raidator) other that ensure I buy the proper visocity @ the lowest price. In my radiator I use prestone radiator fluid for their reputable corrosion inhibitors esp since I have an alum raidator and and iorn block (the 2 don't get along chemically)

2nd gen pathfinders are very easy to maintain. Less front suspension parts than on the older pathys and trucks.

As with any used car your going to want to replace the brakes front and rear along with new tires. Check out the suspension. Will give you a good idea of where and what is worn and will need to be replaced.

As for the drive train. Whenever buying a different car it's a good idea to change out all fluids. you can puck and chose what brand oils/ coolants you like. If you stay with a name brand you'll never be let down.

There's a ton of documentation on this site. You can completely rebuild your truck with the knowledge stored on this site. As always don't ever be afraid to ask questions.

Thanks for the tips!

My buddy has owned the Pathfinder for 10 years. Since I’m driving the vehicle up to my home in Seattle (from California) he took it to his mechanic for a look to make sure it was ok for the drive. I’ve known him for about 15 years and he’s never given me a reason to not trust him, so I just mailed a check to him.

The brakes are still ok and the tires were replaced (not AT tires, just street all season stuff 235/75/15) about 8k miles ago. I will definitely go through all the fluids once I bring it up here.

Are there any write-ups for the fluid changes? Is the transmission pan hard to drop (like my Jeep Cherokee was)? Do the diffs have a drain bolt or does the cover have to come off (like Jeeps)? Does the rear diff have limited slip and require an additive?

I never add anyting to my LSD, just regular dif oil

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Are there any write-ups for the fluid changes? Is the transmission pan hard to drop (like my Jeep Cherokee was)? Do the diffs have a drain bolt or does the cover have to come off (like Jeeps)? Does the rear diff have limited slip and require an additive?

There's a ton of info in the how-to section of this forum. the 96 model year might have a drain plug for the tranny. I don't know what year they started installing drain plugs in the tranny pan. I would droop the pan anyways just to get an Idea of good the tranny is. IE: If you droop the pan and see a bunch of gunk then you know the tranny was not maintained.

Yes your truck does have a LSD. It's never bad to throw in the lsd additive when changing the fluid. With Nissan lsd they seem to perform well with or with out the additive but nothing can be hurt by adding some.

I drove the Pathfinder back to Seattle. About 950 miles total. It ran well but I noticed that the RPM’s would jump 300-500 every now and then while cruising. It wasn’t based on load (as in climbing a steep grade) and didn’t seem normal to me. Anyone know what it might be? Is it normal for Pathfinders?

FYI…it did this while driving with my foot on the gas AND with cruise control engaged.

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300-500 every now and then while cruising

A/c will do that while cycling on and off. When my dizzy cam starts showing it's age the rpms will jump around. Not under power tho.

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Originally posted by LordBiotree:

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300-500 every now and then while cruising

A/c will do that while cycling on and off. When my dizzy cam starts showing it's age the rpms will jump around. Not under power tho.

There is a fast idle control device (FICD in the hanes maual) activated by the AC compressor relay. This relay engages and disengages your compressor based on service preassure so that its not always running. I'm not sure where the FICD is on the 96 (my 89 is next to the trhottle body. but you ajust it by turning a screw (clock for faster anti clock for slower) when properly set you idle should stay the same(maybe go up only 100rpm) when the compressor kicks in. when improperly set it will either do what yours did or the rpms will drop under the increased load of the compressor. It doesn't hurt anyting to be set wrong, unless it makes you idle below 800 rpm and you might notice a sligth gass savings in the long run(during the summer) if its not set too high.

Thanks for the help!

It's actually not tied to the A/C. It happens while cruising along at 60-70mph mostly.

I might test the alternator if I had that problem. A dying VR chip inside it may be effecting your rpm based on how much power is fluctuating from the alternator. But I gess that might happen @ all speeds.
anyway I know schucks/checker/kraken will analize alternators for free if you bring it in.

Did it feel like it was jumping or did the tac just bounce? Heres a theory;
your tac may be getting electrical interference from your speedo or some improperly sheiled wire somwhere. this interference may only be great enough to cause the needle to jump when traveling @ 60-70mph.

I'm just guessing here so don't be disappointed if that aint it.

torque convertor locking/unlocking. dont know why it wouldnt stay locked with stock tires tho.

Agreed, an immediate RPM increase at highway speeds with a locked torque converter has to be the torque converter unlocking. The question is why with stock tires. Was it REALLY cold? and has a large transmission cooler been added? At temps around 30F the aftermarket transmission cooler on my Q is so big that it cools the tranny fluid below 104F causing the torque converter to unlock and then lock as the fluid temp comes back up.

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This relay engages and disengages your compressor based on service pressure so that it is not always running. I'm not sure where the FICD is on the 96

R50s do not engage and disengage the compressor like all other Nissan trucks. They have variable compressors.

From the FSM for a 96 R50:

1. The V-6 variable compressor differs from previous units. The vent temperatures of the V-6 variable compress do not drop too far below 5C (41F) when:
Evaporator intake air temperature is less than 20c (68F)
Engine is running at speeds less than 1500rpm

2. The V-6 variable compressor provides refrigerant control under varying conditions. During cold winters, it may not produce high refrigerant pressure discharge (compared to previous units) when used with air conditioning systems.
3. A “clanking” sound may occasionally be heard during refrigerant charge. (My Q does this bad) The sound indicates that the tilt angle of the swash plate has changed and is not a problem.
4. For air conditioning systems with the v-6 compressor, the clutch remains engaged unless: the system main switch, fan switch or ignition switch is turned OFF. When ambient (outside) temperatures are low or when the amount of refrigerant is insufficient, the clutch is disengaged to protect the compressor.
5. A constant range of suction pressure is maintained when engine speed is greater than a certain value. It normally ranges from 147 to 177 kPa (1.5 to 1.8 kg/cm2, 21 to 26psi) under varying conditions. In previous compressors, however, suction pressure was reduced with increases in engine speed.

The variable compressor is basically a swash plate type that changes piston stroke in response to the required cooling capacity.

I have never seen a Nissan without a auto drain bolt. My 92 pathy has one. So have all my quests. I am pretty sure my 74 auto truck had one.

I had a 96 SE 5 speed for 5 years. Just make sure the timing belt is changed at every 105k miles.