Well I finally got around to looking for a thermostat and guess what, there wasn't one. So now my truck warms right up to 185 degrees as then the thermo open right up. Still it is hard to get it to run higher than 165 when moving. My heater still seems to only throw luke warm air at best. Fudd, did you say something about heater core blockage?

Jason
69' Patrol
3 speed, I-6
"Super Roof Rack"
Custom 3" Lift
32" X 9.50 Super Swampers
Superlift Shocks

87' 5spd 2wd hardbody 225K

What kind of thermostat did you get? I got a 180* thermostat, and mine runs about 190*F all the time...

I have no idea. I got it used off another Patrol. I boiled it with a temp gauge (turkey thermo) and it opened full open just before 180 degrees F. By the way awesome sig pic.

jason..

just some ideas..

Is the thermostat opening up? Check the radiator to see if its warm. Also, is it possible that the thermostat is a 160? WHere was the thermometer when you tested it? My heater in my Z acted the same way when it had a 160F themostat in it. It wouldnt warm up at all.

One other thing I would do would be to double check the accuracy of the temp gauge using a meat thermometer stuck through the radiator. I used to keep one on a car years back to be able to verify the rad temperature because my stock gauge sender always read too high.

It could also be heater core blockage.. You could pull the core and clean it out. I've done them in the past with a garden hose stuck in the outlet side. The ones Ive done spat out all sorts of nasty crud before they started flowing freely again. Another way (if possible) would be to attach longer hoses to the inlet and outlet of the core while its sitll in the truck and then run a hose into it. That way there's minimal R&R involved.

One other thing you could do.. I know its pretty darn cold up there right now.. the cold air may be cooling things off too much. try blocking off half of the grille with something and see what happens. If that isnt enough, block 3/4 of it.

Yeah, my dad always did the half blocking of the radiator in the winter with cardboard. I'll give it a try. I imagine there is crud in my heater core. Plus I have a cleaned out one ready to install so I might just have it recored and install a "new" one. Besides the Patrol deserves it. John, any thoughts on what Andy sugested about spark plug gap? I was thinking .40 rather than .45 like he said. Originally the Patrol ran .32 I think.

Jason
69' Patrol
3 speed, I-6
"Super Roof Rack"
Custom 3" Lift
32" X 9.50 Super Swampers
Superlift Shocks

87' 5spd 2wd hardbody 225K

I would match the spark plug gap to the distributor/coil. I'd start with whatever is recommended for a 280zx and go from there.

I believe the ZX is around .039" .040" will be fine though. If you have a high output coil, you can run a slightly larger gap and get a massive spark.

Last time I was in IOWA, I saw that my uncle had installed a heater blind-looking thing on his old K-5. It looked like window blinds, and was actuated by a vacuum diaphragm.

He said he took it from an old Mack truck, and just cut things down slightly, and exchanged the old pneumatic actuator for a vacuum diaphragm from what I think said was a Lincoln Mark VII.

A good idea for colder climates, but overkill for AZ...

quote:

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Originally posted by datz510:
I believe the ZX is around .039" .040" will be fine though. If you have a high output coil, you can run a slightly larger gap and get a massive spark.

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Great then, I will adjust the plugs then. I imagine that the plugs at .45-.46 are way too big of a gap, thus weaking my spark.

I hope to get back to the truck in the next few days to test it out.

thanks again for the Z experience!