Okay, that didnt work, Ill try MSN...


"TSUNAMI"
1969 Nissan Patrol
Mods getting too numerous to list!
79,000 Original Miles!

I can see em!

Mr. Will

Give me ambiguity or give me something else.

Here is a link to a page I made on Cardomain:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/394451/4
Pics are there...


"TSUNAMI"
1969 Nissan Patrol
Mods getting too numerous to list!
79,000 Original Miles!

For some reason, they arent showing up for me...


"TSUNAMI"
1969 Nissan Patrol
Mods getting too numerous to list!
79,000 Original Miles!

I had to go to cardomain to see them. Nice pics! That Kaiser is huge! That's pretty funny to see your rig doing the hayseed impression.
I went wheeling this weekend with a guy with a '51 Willys, original 4 banger, locked front & rear. I was pretty impressed and the short wb made me want to get my Patrol going even more...


Click for last weekend's pics

Well, now the Patrol isnt going so great. Im having trouble getting enough brake pressure to stop. I have to pump the pedal 3-4 times before I get normal pressure. Master cylinder maybe? Rear wheel cylinders have been rebuilt, all wheel cylinders have been bled time and time again.

Also, it runs at about 200*F(is that hot or normal for a Patrol?). It runs rough, and dies frequently. After dieing, its really hard to get started. It has to sit for a couple of minutes before even attempting to start. When I try to gas it, the Patrol sputters and nearly dies(will at low RPM's). Any ideas, guys?


"TSUNAMI"
1969 Nissan Patrol
Mods getting too numerous to list!
79,000 Original Miles!

Hey Jon...first I must say cool pictures with the Kaiser and first day out. What a great way to learn to drive a clutch and experience your Patrol! So congrats again

Next, brake pressure. yes it could be in the MC or it could just be air in the lines. Mine had to be power bled with a machine after i rebuilt them all because no other way to get air out. The guys at the shop thought it was my MC or in the lines, it turned out to just be air. I am sure you have checked but make sure there are no leaks. This takes removing all drums as the cylinders can leak and nit be seen from outside. You can get a MC rebuilt kit for like $20 from Nissan or Australia. I may have a spare also. It could even be that the FJ and Patrol cylinders opperate at diffrent pressures and the Patrol MC is not activating the rears, I dunno.

You have fuel system problems more than likely. The carb can make it run as described buit so can ignition. To narrow it down check every thing in the ignition. Make sure the timing is set right, cap is good, plugs good, rotor good, coil good and check for vacuum leaks. Once you have all that dialed move on to the fuel system. A very common problem in Patrols is rusty fuel tanks. The rust will clog lines, filters, pump and jets in carb. Drain your tank and check it for rust as best as possable. If your lines old replace them, it is cheap. If you have a stock mechanical fuel pump then simply unhook lines put your fingers over the holes and have Heath turn it over to see if it is pumping. It only runs at about 4psi so it is very slight but enough to do the job well. Replace you filter with cheap inline. Make sure all lines are air tight. If you have an eletric pump you need a fuel regulation valve inline set at about 3-5 psi. Also make sure this pump works. The best place for an eletric pump is as close to the tank as you can get it. Last is the carb. If you have a Rochester you are doomed no matter what! Yet, for under $25 you can get a rebuild kit at any Napa or similar. Clean the holy hell out of it and rebuild the carb. The dieing and hard to start can be in a dirty carb or incorrect float level or wrong timing to start with. Make sure there is no vapor lock going on as this will haunt you until fixed. Clean the breather and filler tubes throughly. Make sure your cap is good. But before firing it up make sure the fuel system is clean or carb screwed all over again. If you get all this checked an it still runs rough then we can go over more stuff but these most common reasons on the P engine. It is basic, spark, fuel and air set correctly and it will purr...

For the over heating, 200 is a bit hot but not off the scale. Mine runs at about 160 when the gauge works. They run hotter in hot weather and cooler in cold weather. First check fan belt to make sure it is running the pump well. Generally if the pump is shot you will know it. You could have it rebuilt at reasonable cost to make sure or if brave attempt it your self. What temp thermostat you using? I have new ones from Nissan with gaskets if you need one. I would think it needs a very good flushing from the long sit and also people do funky stuuf to this trucks. Flush the entire cooling system many times. My blue 64 had 2lbs of sand in it when I got it and flushed the system! The radiator can be rebuilt at good price if it is heavily corroded. Often a truck that sits will have this problem. If you do not want to pay for it then flush it as much as you can. The cooling system is simple. Radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and fan. If they all in good shape it should work right. Wrong ingnition timing can also make it run hot. neg 10 degrees from TDC at 450rpm's is the correct setting but I can never get mine to run at this setting.

You got the truck rolling bud but now comes a whole new set of problems. The thing has obviously been neglected for years and many parts of it will need attention before it is rolling strong. This is the game with an old 4wd rig that has sat and been neglected. Be glad you have a good motor to work with! I would start with the brakes as they most important. then I would fix the fuel and ignition systems up. These could solve the cooling probs and if not then do it last as it not going anywhere running like crap. Every time I fix something on my 64 I get new problems...I am starting to think the best way to deal with these old trucks is just to tear it down to the frame and start rebuilding.

Any ways that is my $2 on the subject

64 L60 Patrol
*project in the works*

64 KL60 Patrol "Hogan"
-67 145 HP engine
-Koenig stock PTO winch
-7.50x16 Michelin XZL's
-Rancho 5000's

66 KL60 Patrol "Admiral Togo"
-40K original miles
-245-75R15 Cooper Discoverers on stock 15" split rims & caps

Okay... here are the symptoms...

-Getting gas to carb
-All plugs firing
-Very rear spark plug black, while others look normla
-Not even trying to start

Between time of purchase and end of axle installation, engine ran PERFECT!

Sunday, it spitted and sputtered. Began problem with dieing after having wheeled it. Died 2 blocks from my house, and wouldnt start. Towed it home with a friend's truck.

Monday, spitted and sputtered as before, nearly died at stops. Finally did die at stop, and wouldnt start for 2 minutes. Ran rough, and died about 10ft from my driveway. We pushed it back into the driveway. It started up long enough to move it forward.

Tuesday(today), will NOT start at all.


Im thinking that maybe it jumped time? Maybe it isnt firing on the last cylinder at all?

Any ideas?


"TSUNAMI"
1969 Nissan Patrol
Mods getting too numerous to list!
79,000 Original Miles!

Okay, a neighbor came over, and looked at it for me. It is getting plenty of gas. I sprayed some B-12 into the carburetor, and it started. I tried to hit the accelerator to give it gas, and it just died. Then it backfired through the carburetor!! He also said my top-end was rattling. I thought it was, too... but I wasnt sure if it was just a normal sound these motors made, or what...

So, do yall think its out of time? If so, how would I go about re-timing it?


"TSUNAMI"
1969 Nissan Patrol
Mods getting too numerous to list!
79,000 Original Miles!