well my 64 KL60 has got me a bit bummed. The truck is for sale and is on ebay and has bids...likely it won't sell again though. This is not what has me bummed on the truck though...

I noticed last time I changed the oil that it seems to be consuming large quanities of oil. In 100 miles since I changed it last I have gone through 2 quarts. It not dumping it as when parked in snow there is nothing under the truck. It is burning it or spitting it out the exhaust or both. I checked my plugs last night and all look awesome except #4 & #5. These both have large deposits of oil on them and are new. So after the head rebuild I can only assume bad rings on piston #4 & #5. In less they messed up the head job and the exhaust valves are the cause, this I doubt. I should have rebuilt the whole motor but didn't. Don't get me wrong...the trucks starts easily, runs good and is fun. Yet, now it is obvious the bottom end needs help.

This brings me to a new point with the truck. The motor is a 67 and not the stock motor for this 64. The tranny is good but does chirp on 3rd if shifted fast...it is also a fair share louder than my 66 in the box. The body is full of bondo as you all know and shows it more now than ever as I have used the damn truck. The stock 16" rims, set of 5, I had powder coated are now bunk as 2 are way tweaked. I have plasma cable for the winch and a new fairlead but the truck now needs 5 new rims and some $$$ for the engine. So what to do!!?? I can stop trying to sell it and then keep the rig. I have no problem trying to sell the much nicer 66. So I keep the 64 and it now needs motor work again. I can drop another grand or so on the motor but then it is not really worth much more than now as like I say it not a collector P-troll. I can drive it and add oil till the motor goes down. I can also go the route of basically parting it. By using many parts from it I can have my 64 rag top on the road much faster than if rebuilding all it's parts. The head, Weber, rebuilt start, new alt and all that can go right on the good block for the 64 ragtop.

Then what though? I am left with a partial 64 hardtop. I can drop in some domestic motor and get it back on the road. I can source a SD33 or 4.2 and drop it in many months from now. I have some C303 diffs found and can have them before spring. So I am just not sure what to do with the truck....part it and use whats left for a build up?? Redo the bottom end on the motor and still have the same old truck? Just drive it untill the motor goes? If I do anything besides get rid of it the thing will cost me a lot more money sooner or later. Yet, it could save me a lot of time and money on the 64 ragtop. Ho-hum...what to do?

Any suggestions...??

Well... youve always talked about building a mean-arse Patrol...

I guess if I felt like I could afford it I'd 'part it and use whats left for a build up'. Otherwise I'd try to sell it as is or part it out completely depending on what would make more $$ and feel best.
Well, at least it's not your only one...

-Greg

Dogwater.Net
Northeast Trailrides List

I am considering all my options with the truck...main prob is they all take $$$ and don't have a lot of that right now.

I am not really into a domestic motor as it just not my style. A domestic trans would be ok but it has to be at least a 4spd and have no less than 40:1 low. I am still fixing it up all the time and not abandoning the truck. Just not real happy with it right now

It is a bit confusing in that compression tests are at 115-120 on the bad cylinders. Not exactly shot rings but also not as good as the rest of the pistons. Head is rebuilt so it would not seem to be valve prob. How can I tell if it is rings or valves causing the oil loss?? If it is the vavles it is under warranty...

Drop a tablespoon of oil down the spark plug holes after you have your compression readings. Then do it again- if it's rings -the compression should improve.

.....................
'98 FAD FrontyKC
158,500 miles
Packin ARB'd 9"(5.00)& Tornado w/ Dual Remotes;-)
Mobi-ARC 200 is tits!( can I say that?)

Could it be bad or unseated valve seals in the rebuilt head?


1998 Frontier 4x4, 2002 Xterra 4x4, 1983 280ZXT, and a ratty old Sentra
Remember, Grow the Nissan Community and stand up for ORV user rights!
Card Carrying M.E.S.A Member (Modified Easterly SWANKy Associates)

I knew there was a way to tell if it is rings or valves...thanks man I will try it out.

It could be valves but if the shop that rebuilt the head $*&^%ed it up then I am POed. They better fix it for free if this is the case...I told them if the bottom end is bad to rebuild it. They said it is good and only did the head. Either way, valves or rings and it seems they did something wrong.

I am really coming to a point with all my trucks where I am sick and tired of paying people to not do things right. It seems just like most things in the world....if you want it done right and done at the best cost you should do it yourself! Looks like I should stop spending money on parts and start investing in expensive tools.

quote:

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Originally posted by Fudd:
Looks like I should stop spending money on parts and start investing in expensive tools.

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Spoken like a true wise man.


1998 Frontier 4x4, 2002 Xterra 4x4, 1983 280ZXT, and a ratty old Sentra
Remember, Grow the Nissan Community and stand up for ORV user rights!
Card Carrying M.E.S.A Member (Modified Easterly SWANKy Associates)

quote:

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Originally posted by Desert Rat:

quote:

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Originally posted by Fudd:
Looks like I should stop spending money on parts and start investing in expensive tools.

---

Spoken like a true wise man.

---

Or like Tim Allen..

Augh Augh!!

----------------------
"Go that way, really fast; if something gets in your way . . . turn."

Yeah... 120 is LOW. Mine got:

Cyl 1: 150psi
Cyl 2: 152psi
Cyl 3: 151psi
Cyl 4: 151psi
Cyl 5: 151psi
Cyl 6: 151psi

Mine has 80,000mi on it, and I didnt shoot oil down into the cylinders when I started it up after sitting for 10 years like I should have.

My bet would be the head. Your Patrol used no oil before, did it? If it didnt, I would take it back to the shop and chew them out. Tell them it didnt use oil before!

..
Fudd;

... Check the valve cover breather system. A PCV could be upside down, or a hose stopped up. Check the valve seals, they may have forgot to R&R them and they could suck oil with the help of a little blow-by. The oil drain holes could be plugged by a wrong
gasket or crud they didn't clean out.

Make sure the oil dip-stick is reading correctly. I used to think one of mine was using oil, I'd change oil and put the propper amout in and not check the stick... then 500 miles later it would be a quart low... BUT it was the stick that was a quart off.

Have a good one and CUL.. Don S..

'99 4x4 3.3 KC & '04 Sentra
'99 4x4 4.7 WJ & '76 4x4 FSJ

Jon...my manual states that compression should be at 135. It also says that the range should not be over 10 and mine is over 10. This is a 1962 manual though....

They removed the pcv valve, stock it did not have one. Just a lower breather on the block and the breather to oil bath on the valve cover. The old valve cover had a hole cut in it, pcv valve here with a tube running to exhaust manifold where I assume it dumped. Since I no longer have an oil bath the valve cover breather is simply vented straight up with a filter type cap on the top.

It was not going through much oil at all before head rebuild....or should I say before I blew the head gasket. I noticed last time I changed the oil that the filler cap is getting a white pasty foam looking junk on it in fairly large quanities. It also seems to have a ton of condensation on the cap. This I know is not right but do not know the cause.

Main prob with running it back to the machine shop is they are 100 miles from me, on the other side of the rocky mnts. It is an all day event to take the truck over there and also not a fun event.

Was going to test compression again last night but my shop is froze up! need fuel in the boiler...heh. Think I will call the shop today though as this is making me mad.

If you're getting foaming in the oil and condensation, that suggests to me a problem with the new head gasket. When you pull the dipstick, is there bubbles on it suggesting water in the oil? It doesn't make sense that it would only start consuming oil after the head rebuild.....that doesn't suggest bottom end to me at all, but more likely valve seals.

Now in some older domestic engines (notoriously Ford bigblocks), they'd burn oil when new until the valves seated after 1000 or so miles....Not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. When they redid the head, did they use parts made for unleaded gas? If not (I'm really reaching here) It's possible that not having lead in the gas provided inadequate valve lubrication in the break in process, and you have oil getting past the seals.

Ok, I'm really reaching, but I just hate to see you give up on such a SWEET P-troll


1998 Frontier 4x4, 2002 Xterra 4x4, 1983 280ZXT, and a ratty old Sentra
Remember, Grow the Nissan Community and stand up for ORV user rights!
Card Carrying M.E.S.A Member (Modified Easterly SWANKy Associates)

Something worse just occurred to me...another way coolant could enter the engine oil is from a cracked head. That might also explain low compression on certain cylinders. Hope this isn't the case.


1998 Frontier 4x4, 2002 Xterra 4x4, 1983 280ZXT, and a ratty old Sentra
Remember, Grow the Nissan Community and stand up for ORV user rights!
Card Carrying M.E.S.A Member (Modified Easterly SWANKy Associates)

the foaming is only on the cap, I changed the oil recently and it was dirty but no water in it. Same with condensation...water on the filler cap like it condensating in the head. I have done about 500 miles since head rebuild. It has got progressively worse. When I drove it to the shop yesterday I could tell at least one if not two plugs are fouled. It is dumping oil out the exhaust, no smoke but black oil spots in the snow. The parts for the head were for the PPU Nissan motor, I assume it is an unleaded engine, not exactly sure but the part numbers matched late numbers in my 77 parts book. They were supposed to put in hardened valve seats so it will run on unleaded, since head job I have not put lead addative in the fuel. They ground the valves and all that...

I don't see how the head could be cracked, they shaved it and dipped and it looked good to me. The truck ran simply awesome for the first 200 miles or so.

I am a bit stuck and only reason I have not called the machine shop is because I know what they will say....bring it on over. To rebuild the bottom end will run me at least a grand. This for a non-stock motor. Not going to give up on the truck but for $1500 or so I can get a SD33 and a better trans, matter of fact for $1500 I can get a complete 83 Patrol with C200's also. I am sure Greg or somebody would want the block from this motor too. So I am just thinking unless it simple and cheap this motor not worth the time and money. Few thousand more bucks and I can get a good welding set up and just start to go for it on my own....Most all the parts on this truck that would be removed I can use on the 64 ragtop no probs.