Right so to run a H233 leaf front from a GQ would require wheel spacers in the rear?

Don't think I will be jumping the truck but you never know....lifting a wheel, now that is going to happen.

So in the example you gave, ie locked at full turn would the CV's be the part to break?

I just picked up some factory FW hubs yesterday from a wrecker in OZ, $100 for the set.

I dunno about the width of the leaf sprung 233, but if it's the same size as the coily it is 6" wider overall than the MK/MQ axle.
People run the C200 in Patrols in competitions like the RTCC over here since decades without major probs. Only thing, as mentioned before might be the CV's when you have a locker and turn the wheels while gassing it.
So I wouldn't worry about the front anyway.

I think you are right Bart about that front diff being a GQ H233. After comparing it to my diff it is certainly wider.

I'll take your word for the strength of the C200. Like I said I am just wanting to get the best I can before going through the trouble/expense of doing a SoA on the truck. I believe the CV's can be made stronger by welding a ring on them, not sure how it is done and all that but I have read this more than once on the Aussie forums.

So all I really need to do is source a H233 rear, get the gear ratios I want and I am ready for the SoA.

I have got Marv at Specter off-road sourcing me some stuff right now including an H233 rear. He is on a trip in Aus and has already confirmed the finding of stuff I want. I am saving a lot on shipping by having him bring in the parts because he is stuffing it all in a 40ft container!

I think I have also got an SD33T lined up, it is 12v. But I have figured out I can simply convert the alt, starter, g-plugs and controller on the pump to 24v and I am set to go. Since all that stuff is good on my truck it should be a snap. Much easier than converting my entire truck to 12v anyways. I should save a lot of $$$ by dropping in a factory turbo motor compared to turboing mine. Which means I will have more cash for doing things like propane injection! Woot...getting closer and closer to having a turbo diesel power plant in my truck.

That is aweseome! I really missed out on a chance to purchase one similary to that. It was an 82 or 83 here in Georgia that was a RHD brought over by a foreign exchange student. Overall it was in very good shape with just a little bit of rust starting on one of the doors. I let it slip away, they were asking $2500 for it and it had been a daily driver and well maintained, they used it to deliver mail in on their rural route.

Heh ya...you should have picked it up for $2500. So few SWB MQ/MK Patrols in the USA. You may never see another one let alone one for sale. RHD though I am not to keen on which is why I really like my 83 MQ.

After a lot of chatting with the Aussie guru of MQ/MK Patrols (aka V8Patrol/Kingy) and after a lot of thought I have come up with a plan. This is about the motor in my Patrol. The Patrol guru is like me when it comes to old Patrols but he knows the MQ/MK's. He has had countless MQ/MK's and currently has something like 15 of them. Everything from v8's to diesels, SoA to stock suspension, SWB/Utes/LWBs...you name it. He does all his own work and is seriously the best I have ever met when it comes to knowing and doing work on Patrols be it an engine rebuild or SoA. His skills are amazing and when he talks you can be damn sure I listen.

Step one was to locate a cheap used SD33T, "T" is for factory turbo. I have found one in Tasmania for $500. Had a second from Marv but Marv wants $1100 and this one is more than half that price. A couple weeks ago I started to think about just getting a factory turbo motor instead of turboing mine. Reason being it is a cheaper route to go and in the end I have a turbo block and so forth which is slightly different than the NA diesel. I could spend $5k rebuilding my NA and turboing it and in the end I still have a turbo'ed NA diesel instead of a factory TD.

So motor is located, price is set and working on shipping to my door.

Problem #1: My truck is 24v and the SD33T is 12v. Problem solved by using my 24v starter, alt, injection controller and some new 24v glow plugs I picked up. That is all I need to do to convert the 12v TD to 24v which is easier than converting my entire truck to 12v.

Now I still plan to sink a bunch of cash into the motor. In fact other than just repairs and other small things the motor will come before any other expensive work to the truck. As most people familar with the old SD33 inline-6 diesel know it is a bit sluggish even in turbo form. Lets face it 105hp just isn't a lot...now I don't need big hp or I would just fit a v8. But I want as much hp and torque as I can get from the diesel. The SD33 is a very simple motor, tuff as can be and very moddable. In my opinion it is fully possible to get this motor up to 175hp or even nearly 200hp. That may not seem like a lot but doing that much increase to an old diesel is a lot. And torque should be what is noticed more anyways. I have had lot's of ideas floating around in my head as how to mod the motor to get every single hp out of it. About a week ago I started chatting with the Aussie guru on MQ/MK's about this. I now have a full plan for mods and what are key points in the mods to keep this all from self destructing the old diesel.

Modding the old motor is going to put stress on it, mostly in the form of to much heat. Get the diesel to hot and it will be dead. Then I will be worse off then where I am now...

So before doing any mods I must address the heat issues which are going to be the main prob with modding the motor. The head on the motor is cast iron, no changing that. Cast iron is going to hold heat and get hotter than other steels. The stock fan is capable of doing plenty of air flow through a radiator. It actually works far better than converting the fan to electric ones mostly because the head is cast. But the stock radiator has major room for imporvement. So I plan to fit a large 4 core custom aluminum radiator, similar to what race cars run. It will also get a nice custom shrouud to ensure air is flowing through the rad where it should be. Next up is an oil cooler. I can use any aftermarket type I want that will fit in front of the rad....the bigger the better. A oil cooler can be tapped into the stock filter housing and the filter moved to inline between the housing and the cooler. Now converting to electric fan is a bad idea but helping the stock fan with an electric is a good idea. So I will get a nice slim high volume electric fan which will mount in front of the rad/oil cooler. It will not be wired to a thermostat but instead wired to a switch in the cab so I can turn it on or off anytime I want. Next up is an intercooler. There are many to choose from but I am going with a top mount. Plenty of room on the injection pump side of my block. I will run a hood scoop to keep lot's of air flowing through the intercooler. Also may run a small electric fan with it to help in cooling when the going is slow. An intercooler serves to not only increase power but also to cool the motor. Last item for controlling temps is going to simply be an EGT gauge. The EGT gauge won't help in cooling but will allow me to closely monitor it. All of these cooling mods should really help keep the temps down and allow me to start modding the motor a lot. But the cooling mods will be done before other stuff to insure I have temps under control.

Next up will be an after market turbo. Something like a Garret 24 or 28. Much better spooling and a much large turbo shall increase power a lot plus give that power faster. Boost will be at least 12psi but I may try to go higher as long as temps are under control. Stock boost btw is at 6spi which is really low.

I should have the head/motor ported and polished also. Blue printing this thing will also give me some gains in performance, it is all just about $$$!

Exaust will be 2.5" with mandrel bends and muffler will just be a hot dog type which is all about flow. All in stainless. Topping off the exaust system will be a set of headers wrapped in some quality heat reduction material. Once again less heat = better.

For air intake...I plan to run a snorkel. Before I gave it much thought I just planned to buy a Safari snorkel for the SD33. But now I think custom snorkel is the way to go. I will keep the stock air filter housing but it will get modded. By modding I mean set up for duel snorkels! Simply take a second housing, cut and weld on a second intake and that is it set up for duel snorkels. I also just doubled air flow into the motor. I will run two 3" stainless snorkels this will increase air flow a ton over stock. No pre-filters or any of that junk. Stock nissan elements should work fine as long as I keep them clean. The stock housing seals up super tight so I am more than happy with it. Increasing air flow not only increases power but also helps keep things cool if pulling cool air from outside the engine bay. I will have plenty of that coming through the duel snorkels!

At this point I think injection pump can be tweaked a bit to increase fuel. But the more the fuel the hotter it will run. So this will have to be done after the turbo upgrade and some other mods and done by somebody who knows injection pumps.

The last mod I have planned for the engine is going to be propane (LPG) injection. LGP over diesel increases hp by as much as 30-40% and torque by as much as 20-30%. On top of that it burns all the diesel so should have next to zero black smoke. Cleaner buring and a complete burn is the result too. Which means less oil changes and less soot in my motor. Yet this is an old diesel not some modern day cummins in a tractor/trailer. Thus I don't want to run the LPG all the time or I will very likely shorted the life of my SD33. Instead think of it as nitros for my diesel engine. I will have it set up for in cab control, flip a switch or open a valve and bam LPG injection. This will give me a boost to power only when I want or need it. Such as passing on the hwy or in a big muddy uphill climb. I can buy a kit to do this for about $1000 which is complete except for the tank. I plan to mount a tank in the rear of the truck.

None of this is really in the order which it may happen. The cooling mods will come first, after that is just depends on cash. Likely the port and polish will be next along with any other rebuilding that needs to be done to the motor. Then comes the other mods. Like I say have the factory turbo motor located and price is set real cheap. Once I get the SD33T I plan to just drop it in my truck and start saving cash. I expect all this motor work to run me at least $10k and maybe as much as $15k. I still plan to have the Nissan forklift dealer/shop in Denver do a lot of this modding. I think they are up to the task and interested in doing the work but I am sure they won't be cheap! Some people will think I am crazy and laugh at dumping that kind of money into an old Nissan diesel. But hell I don't care...laugh all you want it is my Patrol!

I think I can afford all this over the next 2-3yrs. And in the mean time keep working on other things like the interior, rust repairs/body chops, ect ect. Shouldn't be a big deal to tidy up the suspension in the meantime along with getting an H233 under the Patrol in the rear. I actually think I have found the H233 and it is pretty cheap. I already have a 5spd for the Patrol and all it will need is maybe some gaskets, bearing and seals plus new paint before it goes in the truck. I may find too that this 5spd really rocks. Reason being it comes from a Nissan Cabstar or Nissan Atlas and was bolted to an ED33. It looks exactly the same as a Patrol 5spd but may have a real sweet crawler gear in 1st because it comes from the big Nissan trucks. For those who don't know the Cabstar is a 1.5-3ton forward cab truck made by Nissan and they have a really low 1st gear.

I could go on about other mods planned for suspension, lockers, bar work, roll cage and so forth but none of that is really going to happen till the engine is all done. I do not plan to fit a lift kit though. Stock springs are very flexable and have these friction plates between the leaves. I can get new friction plates from Old Man Emu which should spice them up a bit. For the planned SoA I want these stock 3 leaf packs which are nice and soft not some lifted springs in a 6 leaf pack. That will only make the truck to tall and stiff and mess with the center of gravity. So no lift kit for this Patrol just SoA using stock springs. I think I have located a factory PTO winch for the MQ. Actually 2 of them. Marv may have found me one and there is another right now for sale on a New Zealand ebay. I have a PTO box so plan to just use a factory PTO winch for some time. Eventually I plan to run hydraulic winch powered by the PTO but that will be way down the road in terms of time. For now a cheap stock PTO winch will more than suit me.

I think I should add this....

I can offset the cost of all this a lot by selling my old Patrol junk. Such as the C200 LSD rear diff, several old 4spd trannies with transfer cases. The SD33 in my truck now I can sell along with the factory turbo I have for it. Plus I got an MK oil filter housing for spin on filters. That is a hot item with the Scout diesel guys. Lucky me the SD33T already has the spin on oil filter housing. I had planned to mod my filter housing for spin on filters since the canister is so messy and a pain to change. But don't need it now so will likely ebay it. And there is more stuff I can sell including my 77 Ute to fund this build up. I could even go as far as importing some gear like C200/H233 front diffs for some of you SFA guys. The idea is this all will create cashf or the project.

I realize I am going to spend big bucks on old japanese stuff. For the same kind of cash I could have a sweet v8 or even a modern day diesel in my truck like a Cummins. But to me that is just not worth it....it has to be all Nissan and also all Patrol.

Funny thing is not much over a year ago I was trying like mad to sell this truck for a mear $3k. Which was less than I have in it. I just needed cash badly to pay bills. But nobody was interested so I got stuck with the MQ Patrol. And now I don't think I would sell it for $10k!!

Thing I like about you is that you'll do all this stuff. Togo was gorgeous (BTW, I saw his clone yesterday on Greenfield Rd. here in Mesa!)

You still got the Pinz to wheel around in?

got any pics of the SD33, I think we have one in our forklift at work, TCM40

quote:

Originally posted by Desert Rat:
Thing I like about you is that you'll do all this stuff. Togo was gorgeous (BTW, I saw his clone yesterday on Greenfield Rd. here in Mesa!)

You still got the Pinz to wheel around in?

I've seen that same Patrol at McKellips and Greenfield.. that thing is gorgeous!

Sold the Pinz 2 years ago this January...needed cash to pay bills/tax. Was a fun truck and I miss it sometimes but cost a lot to keep up and I really didn't like the lack of suspension flex and no p/s.

Lets hope I can actually get this MQ Patrol project done in 3-5yrs. Otherwise I am just full of shit.

Here is a pic of an SD33 that is going into a LG61...


Amazing the kind of stuff you can find in New Zealand.....for example,
Fire Patrol
LWB Safari high roof with factory PTO
Nissan PTO winch
MQ/MK Patrol PTO boxPatrol H233 front diffGQ Patrol factory PTO winchMQ Firepatrol

Sucks I got banned from TradeMe!

That does look very similar, hard to tell since the only view you can get of the engines is top down. I will say the injection pump looks identical and is on the correct side of the engine. What were the power figures for that engine in T and NA

around 85hp for the NA and 105hp for the TD.

SD33 facts on Scout forum

halfway down is the engine output specs....

fudd good buddy,
i just want to ask you if an 82 patrol an MQ model also?
thank

Yes an 82 is an MQ....1980-1984 or there about is an MQ. 1984-1987 is an MK. They are all the 160 series of Patrol.

Well I motivated today and pulled out the thermostat. Not like it was a big job but I have been putting it off for a few weeks. Got a Napa thermostat awhile back using cross over numbers from the Scout forum. Perfect fit although the one I pulled out looks like it is a lot better quality. Thing was though the one I pulled out was toasted just like I thought. It looks like an orginal Nissan part, two numbers stamped on it, ie 8 83 & 82C. I am guessing the 8 83 might be a date, if so this is one hella old thermastat! Obviously the other numbers is temp. The old thermostat has a rubber type seal for when closed. This was rotten and jamming up the thermostat making it stay open 24/7. The thing was just plain dusted. After putting in the new one and giving the RTV time to set up I took her out for a drive. The Patrol now warms up faster...temp is about 1/3 to 1/2 of gauge which seems about right. Temp doesn't move all over the place like before it basically is just holding the same opperating temp. It only varied a little bit by doing 70mph on the hwy or in low range climbing steep hills offroad. The heater barely cools it down now. And man the heater cranks much better!

So I am not suprised she is running better after just a thermostat but I am suprised how much better she is running.