oh ya and here is my rocking stereo system!

in glove box we fitted a DC to AC inverter so I can charge flashlight batteries, cell phone or run my iPod ghetto blaster on regular AC power. Great for camping!

Nice. Like that trans mount. I don't think you're going to have any more problems with that!

ya I am really happy with the new tranny mounts. Best part is they use just plain jane chevy spring bushes, the vulcanized rubber to steel ones. So even if rubber fails it cant free float more than what 1/4"? And they can be bought at pretty much any redneck auto store in BFE! The stock rubber ones that were in there for the Run...man oh man were they bad. The one you could see chewed and sheered in half on the trail but the other looked *ok* (using term lightly)...well the one that looked good fell into 2 pieces when it came out! Tranny & transfer were both basically riding on the engine mounts! The engine had also moved a solid 1/4", maybe more. The thermo housing contacted the x-bar for shock hoops in engine bay which normally has a solid 1/2-3/4" clearance! Luckily engine mounts survived and are still good.

Wow the Pootroll is tough, she did nearly half of the AZ Run like this! But she wasn't ready to go home early and neither was I. It drives way better now...smooth on road, shifts good and is way more quiet. The blown tranny mounts were causing tons of vibrations, noise, slap and all kinds of funk. I am pretty impressed and glad we didn't flog something else because of it on the trail...

Got a few issues still... engine is still having starting probs. Seems to be turning out to be a 3-way electric device on the injection pump. Little electric motor has start, stop and run positions. Only run and stop seem to be working. Electric motor connected to a throttle type device on pump. At start it is giving more fuel to help start the truck. It is more than the electrical device not putting the other device in the correct position because doing it by hand and it still won't start. This is all after a new $150 set of glow plugs which are working fine. So still can't start the truck without a tiny shot of starting fluid....which is bad and lame. Have no idea right now to what extent it is messed up, likely both devices need to be replaced. I know the electric one is about $500 in Aus new.

Speaking of motors though...I bought a 1984 MQ Patrol in Aus with a factory SD33T, 5spd and all on 12v. Body is trashed from beach work rest is good, paid $1200 Aussie bucks for it all up. Yuri 4x4 got me the truck and is working me up quotes plus helping me plan the entire rebuild/mods of this engine. He is going to be doing the work then drop shipping the engine to me which then bolts into my truck! Planning on custom Garret turbo, modified injectors, large cooling system, front mount intercooler, external oil pump and cooler, possibly shaved oil pan, port and polished head, bottom end blueprinted, and so forth. Turbo is built to our specs meaning boost where i want it with little to no lag. Hell I might even go water or propane injection to top it off! Not happening anytime soon because it is going to cost big bucks but who knows maybe by next AZ Run it will be in the truck.

The rear shock we blew on the trail bottomed out 2-3 times on Sunday. Not good but I should have a new one here before the weekend. Other than the starting probs everything else is pretty much dialed in on the truck now and it is a lot of fun to drive!

Oh ya...hope to pick up a Co2 tank soon so I can tune the suspension myself anytime!

excellent! Looking forward to seeing the old Ptroll again.

So I didn't get around to working on the truck today but did take it out wheeling! 35's just look small to me on my truck. What do you think?

Don't feel like typing much and still have other things to do today so just going to spam pictures!




love sliders and lots of clearance!









chassis under flex...





clearances are tight in parts of the suspension but nothing touches! I love how the driveline angles don't change much when flexed on a linked suspension.

any bigger tires and you might not have fender clearance. looks great

I think you need to get a rig that flexes more.

I don't think it will rub with bigger tires. Rims will be more offset so that should solve any probs with rubbing in front at full lock. I took some pictures of the stuffed tires, just din't post them. But there is a lot of clearance in the rear and a solid 2" or so in front. With 38's I will also run 16" shocks so not sure how it will stuff a tire. It will come up about 5" with 38's and 16" shocks!

But no plans to patch up body until the 38's on. In case more sheet metal has to be cut out.

I'm going to throw this out there. Have you upgraded the shafts in the c200's? 36+ tire size your bound to brake shafts fast. I cant remember if your truck is locked or not.

quote:

Originally posted by Fudd:
With 38's I will also run 16" shocks so not sure how it will stuff a tire...

I'm thinking about the exact set up on my Pathy project, 16" SAW air shocks and 38" TSLs...

looking forward to seeing some pics of the build!

Only have a C200 in front now...the C200 rear was pulled and we fit a H233 from a mid-80's Patrol. I don't have stronger than stock axles in either diff. I do have some big CV's in the front though. They are from an H233 front, heat treated and also have ring welded on them. My f/w hubs are also a bit bigger than stock, from an H233 front too!

Yes I have ARB's front and rear. I am a little concerned with the front and 38's. Cvs are supposed to be the weak link in the front C200, then hubs. I have both of those covered. But I could still break and axle or the r&p...in fact I think the r&p would be what will fail. I can get out of Aus. special axles cut and also heat treated r&p gears. But if I break something in the front I don't think Iw ill upgrade the axles, ect. I think I will upgrade the whole front diff, to a H233 front from a GQ/GU Patrol. I don't expect to have probs with the rear diff....

I will never have more than 225 or so horse power. Torque probably never be above 250lbs. Right now with the SD33 N/A I got maybe 85hp at the flywheel, a lot less at the wheel. Granted I could break stuff with this low hp but it isn't real likely. With a v8, ya I would be worried. I also never do the things that cause breakages. Such as raising a tie with locker in and coming down hard on it while spinning. Or front locker in, full lock to one side and gassing it hard. I just don't do thats tuff because you can break anything driving your truck like that.

Time will tell I suppose....

Looking pretty awesome mate. Good to see it back on the trail all fixed up! Looks tougher then ever!

I didn't have too much trouble snapping a stock D44 1.31" shaft with a lot less power and a 33" tire.

Just a matter of time when you play.

quote:

Originally posted by Stewart:
Looking pretty awesome mate. Good to see it back on the trail all fixed up! Looks tougher then ever!

Thanks mate...but the alt has gone out. So at the moment she is sitting. Have one located from Yuri, should have it in a week or so.

I have two spare sets of CV's and a spare set of inner axles. And a spare set of hubs. So that will do me for awhile...hopefully r&p isn't what fails! I will agree eventually something in the front will fail. But who knows when!?

I don't think you'll ever have problems with the ring and pinion. Axle shafts .