A-rod could you find out more on the d60 driverside drop? Price, ship? how many or just a ph# and I'll do it for you.

Gator I not trying to start a whole new tread or an argument but whats wrong with full hydro steering on the street. I know people say it's not legal, but I've checked the states around me and it's completely legal.

There's also a company in town that builds 1+ million dollar custom coaches (they just sold one that was 4.5M)And they're steering is full hydro, front and rear and they are cleared to drive in any state and any country in the world. Companys name is Newell Coach Corp.

I've drove alot of 4x's on the street and highway with hydraulic steering and never had a problem, in fact they drive alot better. I just don't understand why, if someone has driven one on the street, they would say not to. JIM

I am not taking your coments as a flame. The reason I said stay away from full hydro on the highway is because there are a lot of pumps that will react to the speed of the motor. Also, I do not doubt that they are street legal but let us look at this realisticly. That coach with the full hydro steering was built just for that application and most likely cost well over 5 grand. Yes you can get hydro assist for a lot less, but I'd bet it will not be a system fully built around this application. If he goes conventional for now it will be cheaper and he can add hydro assist later. I'm not against full hydro, but you know the way people read things. If you say full hydro is the best way to go, some yahoo out there will go find the cheapest ram he can find from some forklift and try to run a mismatched pump. A-Rod here looks like he is going to try and get this done inside of a week. I am still not sold on full hyro on the highway (street is one thing but over 50mph) I've only seen the set ups on trail rigs that see very litle if any street or highway miles. Just my 2 cents.
Lator.....

no return-to-center with full hydro, and if the pump goes, you don't steer. with hydro-assist you still have a mechanical linkage.

both are only partially correct. A correct orbital valve will allow both to happen. Return to center AND steering without a pump (although its real slow).

I say partially correct because odds are if you pull a valve out of a forklift or farm machinery, it will do neither.

and that is only partially correct. Depends on what loosing the pump means. if you read the laws, you will find laws that more or less make it illegal due to the simple fact, that if a hose bursts, your ass is grass, and so are the asses of all those innocent people ahead of you. Most state something about requiring a "mechanical linkage" (not sure that's the perfet lingo). The two top MANUFACTURERS of hydro steering on pirate don't recommend it...to me, that means something. I would say about 1 out of 20 guys say they're comfortable with their hydro at highway speed. You also have to look at the liability issue if involved in an accident. I'm going to have west texas offroad set me up for hydro assist and call it a day.

Don't get me wron, I believe it could be done, and could handle well. I also believe it would take lots of rework, money, and designing to get it to act right, and you still have the issue of a hose blowing.

no way would I go full hydro on a street driven rig.

doing a SAS on a titan in 4 days. Don't want to discourage you, but I don't see it happening. the steering issues are significant and will take some rework and fabrication. Also, engineering a front suspension takes time, thought, and some careful measurements to get things right as well.

Mine is the fastests non-kit SAS that's been done, and I spent many many nights under the truck measuring and doing research with the FSJ guys making sure things would work ahead of time....and that's for a simple leaf setup.

quote:

Mine is the fastests non-kit SAS that's been done...

Hey buddy, me too Mine was up on jackstands, and fully driveable in 3 days.

Yeah, but his was 4wd.

Not to mention what happens if you get a bubble in your hydro system.. I dont remember names, but there was a buggy that rolled off the road to Box Canyon a couple years back that had full hydro steering. Taking a corner, the hydraulic reservoir fluid level sloshed and dropped enough to let a bubble in the system.. the steering went full lock on its own while at speed and it rolled. Luckily noone was seriously hurt, but the cage was beat up pretty good.

I'd get the steering built as a normal system first and then look into hydro assist as a means of helping the steering out at the axle. NO WAY I would ever go full hydro.. bad idea.

yeah, I would definately only go hydro-assist, but I guess I'll just stay simple to start...

And I was figuring 6 days, not just 3... I know y'alls went a lot faster than mine is going to... but I sent a letter to xxx traction (built the Four Wheeler Titan) asking for any help/advice, so we'll see...

Mine took 3 months to get a rolling set up.
Lator.....

Gator- good points, I understand him not doing it because of the rush he has put on it. It takes time not just money to do some things right.
I can't remember how long mine took but it was longer than 6 days and I have a shop and at the time I think 7 people working about 5hrs a night. But I did have to convert mine from 4x2 to 4x4 also.
You can steer when you lose a pump just not when you lose fluid. The steering wheel will tend to return to center but you should drive through a corner anyways, whether or not it has hyro steering, not just let the wheel go and hope it straightens out. JIM

well if it takes longer, it takes longer.. but it WILL be drivable in less than 6 days, thats a must, it just might not have matching gears (all depending if I have a new rear axle by then)...
Also... Would yall go with coils or coilovers? I'm kinda leaning towards coilovers (I know they're usually a bit more expensive...)

If you're on a budget, and don't mind a little more engineering, COILS. If you have a higher budget than me, COILOVERS are earier to mount, and take up less space. There are pros and cons to both, but that's another topic entirely!

well, I'm definately on a budget... so I guess it might end up being coils... I was looking at some the other day, some fj80 3.5" lift coils and some superlift 80's f150 4" lift coils... don't reall know how big the different lift sizes are gonna make my truck... I don't want more than a 36-37" tire to start with... whats the best way to figure out which coils are gonna "do" what?!?

try to find out the weight of your truck and then find a vehicle thats close to the weight of your truck i would order a larger lift coil the you plan on needing then trim down to find the perfect height
check out bluetorch fab for the coil buckets they have some sweet ones i plan on using them if i decide to go coils instead of air shocks when i link the back
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/oscomm/catalog/index.php?cPath=91

quote:

Originally posted by A-Rod:
My front is a d44 also (centersection anyways), just IFS...

I'm afraid that's a myth. The rear is an M226 (226mm ring gear) based on the D44, but the front is an M205 (205mm ring gear) and is not.

actually, no its not a myth... it has the same center section as a regular "10 bolt" d44, and is rumored (some guys on TitanTalk) that regular gear sets for the 44 (modified or something) will work.. it also says dana on the front of the diff cover...

Ford F series (Bronco and truck) and Jeep TJ coils are both good matches for the Hardbody. I'm running stock TJ Rubicon coils, mounted about 3" BELOW the framerails. DO NOT CUT DOWN COILS if it can be helped! Do your research, and build around the coils. Taller coils, will mean the coil tower will be higher on the frame. Shorter coils will be lower on the frame. I got my coils free, so I made them work.

can i ask why dont cut the coils its been a while since i went through the chassis fab class so i dont remember i know it changes something was it spring rate