ReWritten by Desert Rat

The AC system is a 3" A-Arm style lift for Nissans. Unlike those lifts that drop the front axle, common on Chevy’s, Toyotas, and older D21 "Trailmaster" setups, the A-Arm lift uses torsion bar adjustment to attain additional ride height in the front. The A-Arms included in the kit are slightly longer than stock so the correct camber adjustment can be retained at the increased ride height. Minimum net lift should be at least 2.5" over stock to be able to achieve the correct camber adjustment. Installation of Calmini and SLR lifts is very similar, as the components provided, while proprietary, all follow the same principle, and most of these instructions will apply to those kits as well.

What is usually necessary to do with these lifts is to "reindex" the torsion bars. This means rotating them in the front anchors by 2-4 splines counterclockwise on the left side, and clockwise on the right. This puts the torsion bars within their working range at a greater ride height, as lower A-Arms are pivoted downward. This is how lift is achieved with this style of lift.

Inspect your kit to ensure all necessary parts are included:
• 2 Upper A-Arms
• 4 Black Bushings
• 4 Maroon Bushings
• 4 Large steel sleeves
• 4 Small steel sleeves
• 2 Upper D21 Ball Joints
• 8 10mm Ball Joint Bolts
• 2 22mm Ball Joint Nuts
• 2 Cotter Pins
• 2 Sway-Away Torsion Bars (optional but recommended)
• 1 Idler Arm Brace (optional but recommended)
• 2 or 4 RS 5000 Shocks
• 2 RS 9000 Shocks (optional)
• 4 Rubber shock Bushings
• 4 Bushing End Washers
• 6 Metal Bushing Sleeves
• 2 12mm Nuts
• 4 Zip Ties

Frontier Rear Suspension components:
• 2 Rancho Add-A-Leafs
• 2 Leaf Pack Bolts
• 2 Leaf Pack Nuts

Xterra Rear Suspension components:
• 2 Extended Shackles
• 4 Bolts
• 4 Nuts
• 4 Lock Washers
• 2 Metal Sleeves

Tools needed for the job:
• Floor Jack
• 2 Jack Stands (You could get away with one)
• 1 C-Clamp (Two if you have them)
• Hammer
• Lock-Tite
• Grease (Multipurpose Automotive Grease) for A-Arm Sleeves and Torsion Bars
• 22mm boxed/open end wrench (Required) for Upper Ball Joint Nut
• 22mm socket and wrench for Cam Bolts
• Ball Joint separator (pickle fork)
• 12mm socket (preferred) or wrench for Ball Joint Bolts
• Pliers for Cotter Pins
• 14mm deep socket (preferred) or wrench for Front Shock Tops
• 17mm wrench or socket for Front Shock Bottoms and Rear Shocks
• 19mm socket and wrench for Torsion Bars (Wrench for Lock Nut and Top Nut), socket for Adjuster Bolt
• Impact wrench (optional)

Installation Instructions:
• Park the vehicle on a flat solid surface.
• Take a baseline measurement of ride height from the flat surface to the front crossmember. This is how you will determine how much to lift the truck.
• Raise the front of the vehicle using a floor jack and support the vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember. Block the rear wheels for safety.
• Remove both front tires and both front shock absorbers (Shock Absorber top nut is 14mm and the bottom is 17mm) Place the jack under the control arm and lift until the vehicle is slightly raised off of the jack stand.
• Using pliers remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint; the pin is located on the ball joint shaft under the upper A-Arm.
• Remove the nut from the upper ball joint using a 22mm boxed or open-end wrench.
• Using a ball joint separator, separate the upper ball joint from the spindle.
• Loosen the cam bolts using a 22mm socket, remove the bolt and oblique washers then remove the A-Arm from the pivot point.
• Attach the new ball joint to the to the new A-Arm. The flat side goes to the bottom.
• Apply Lock-Tite to the bolt threads and tighten the 12mm bolts in a cross pattern making sure not to over tighten them.
• Insert the maroon bushings on the inside of each new A-Arm and the black bushings on the outside of each new A-Arm.
• Liberally grease the small diameter metal sleeve and insert it into the large diameter sleeve.
• Insert the sleeves into the bushings that are mounted on the A-Arms until the sleeves are properly seated between both bushings.
• Attach the new A-Arms by aligning the holes in the sleeved bushings with the holes in the frame pivot point mounting brackets. Once aligned slide the cam bolts through the sleeved pivot points from the inside of the A-Arm. Make sure that the center marking on the cam washer is facing up.
• Place the cam washer and nut on the other side of the bolt and tighten until secure.
• Move the A-Arm downward and insert the new ball joint shaft into the spindle. Secure with the new nut and cotter pin that are provided. Bend the cotter pin outwards to secure.
• Use the zip ties provided attach the brake line to the A-Arms between the ball joint and the bump stop strike plate. Be sure to leave enough slack in the brake line for the A-Arm to travel and also keep the sensor wire clear of the bump stop strike plate. Install the new longer shock.
• Using a 19mm wrench remove the locknut from the top of the torsion bar adjuster bolt.
• Using a 19mm socket on the bolt head and a 19mm wrench to hold the top nut, remove the torsion bolt from the cross-member. When the bolt is free of the cross-member take note of the angle that the torsion bar anchor protrudes from the cross-member. If you don’t get this right the torsion bar bolt will either hang down too far when the ride height is set or you will not have enough adjustment available to achieve the proper ride height. Having it hang down makes it a target for rocks and if hit, the anchor could fail.
• Now that the torsion bars are loose pull the bars towards the rear of the truck and they should come right out. If they don’t come out easily hit the front of the torsion bar with a rubber mallet while pulling them toward the rear or the vehicle.
• Apply a liberal amount of grease to the spines at each end of the new bars if you are replacing them. If using the original torsion bars, reinstall about 3 splines counterclockwise into the front anchor on the left side of the truck, and clockwise the right.
• Again, with new bars, take the rubber boots from the old bars and install them on the new bars. Getting the new bars in can be a little tricky. Slid the bar all the way in the front anchor until it buts against the A arm. In the case of my 4-cylinder truck the new torsion bars are about ¼" longer than the stock bars, requiring the removal of the anchor crossmember to get the rear anchors on. If using new bars, reinstall the anchors angled downward (rotated about 2-4 splines from where they were on the factory setup. This is called REINDEXING.
• Re-install the anchor bolt and tighten until the bolt retracts into the cross-member. Lower your vehicle and drive it back and forth at least 10 feet. This will allow the suspension to settle so you can correctly measure your ride height.

NOTE: Sway away bars will settle for the first few thousand miles and will require periodic readjustment of ride height. Optimal ride height is 2.5-2.75" greater than stock given the same tires. Measure again under the front crossmember on each side and readjust until the desired ride height is achieved. Be sure to roll the truck back and forth with each adjustment so it settles. You’ll also want to ensure the distance between the upper A-Arm strike plate and the bump stop is between ½" and ¾". Once you get the ride height properly adjusted tighten the locknut.

Idler Arm Brace Installation
The AC and Calmini pieces differ somewhat in design, but they both serve the same purpose. The Calmini brace requires removal of the entire idler arm mount, as it utilizes all three boltholes and sandwiches between the frame and the idler arm mount. The AC installation is a bit simpler, requiring only removal of the front two nuts on the idler arm mount. It installs over the top of the mount and does not require removal of the whole assembly. While the Calmini mount is more secure, both braces provide adequate protection against the idler arm mounting shaft bending.

AC Brace:
1. Remove the front skidplate for improved access.
2. To install the AC brace, remove the nut and washer on the bottom of the idler arm using a 17mm socket.
3. Remove the front two nuts securing the idler arm mount to the frame. You’ll need a 19mm wrench and socket for this.
4. Slide the end of the brace with one hole over the idler arm shaft, sandwiching the washer between the idler arm and the brace.
5. Push the two frame bolts through the upper two holes on the brace.
6. Reinstall the 17mm nut on the bottom of the idler arm shaft and tighten to spec.
7. Reinstall the two 19mm nuts on the mount and tighten to spec.
Locktite is recommended.
Reinstall the skidplate.

Calmini Brace:
1. Remove the front skidplate for improved access.
2. To install the Calmini brace, again remove the nut and washer on the bottom of the idler arm using a 17mm socket.
3. Remove all three nuts securing the idler arm mount to the frame. You’ll need a 19mm wrench and socket for this.
4. Remove the idler arm assembly (you can leave the idler arm connected to the centerlink.
5. Install the Calmini idler arm brace between the frame and the idler arm mount. Ensure the idler arm shaft goes through the hole on the bottom of the brace.
6. Reinstall the 3 bolts through the brace and idler arm mount.
7. Reinstall the idler arm nut using a 17mm socket, and the three nuts securing the idler arm mount and brace to the frame using a 19mm socket and wrench. Tighten to spec.
Again, locktite is recommended.
Reinstall the skidplate.

Now let’s move on to the back of the truck.

When adding a leaf, it's a good idea to start the job with new U-bolts in hand. 2 U-bolts per side hold the axle to the leaf spring pack.

Frontier Instructions
1. Lift the back of the truck up and get the back wheels off the ground using jackstands under the frame.
2. Remove the rear shocks.
3. Use a floor jack under the diff and jack up to where the diff is just resting on the jack.
4. Unbolt the leaf spring (do one side at a time) at the rear shackle end (17mm nuts), and the 22mm bolt from the front spring eye.
5. Unbolt the U-bolts holding the axle to the spring. Remove the spring pack. You'll need to unbolt the leaf pack and insert the AAL.
6. Reassemble the spring pack using the longer bolts supplied.
7. Installation of the spring pack with the AAL is the reverse of disassembly. Torque U-bolts between 65 and 80 lb-ft.
8. Reinstallation of the overload spring is optional. In some cases the U-bolts may not be long enough to allow this. I did not have this issue on my ’98 truck.
9. Repeat this procedure on the other side Again, use new U-bolts and ensure you torque all bolts to spec.

Xterra Instructions
1. Lift the back of the truck up and get the back wheels off the ground using jackstands under the frame.
2. Remove the rear shocks.
3. Use a floor jack under the diff and jack up to where the diff is just resting on the jack.
4. Unbolt the leaf spring shackles (do one side at a time) at the rear shackle end (17mm nuts)
5. Replace with the longer shackles and supplied hardware.