Thought this might help some people on this board, too.

OK, here it is by popular request:

I used all my original accessories and brackets, I DON'T know if the 3.3 ones will work.

1. Strip both engines down to the long block assembly.

2.a You will either have to put your 3.0 crank in the 3.3 (probably have the wear polished out of it, which means you would have to install new bearings on the 3.3)and keep your 60K timing belt. I have heard if you look, certain 100k gears will adapt. (everyone I know of has gone the 3.0 crank route, although I don't know why), or

b. You can do as I did, and have your 3.3 crank machined to fit your 3.0 pump (can't use 3.3, because timing cover is different, and unless you use the 3.3 balancer, (which has a different O.D.) and all the accessories you have to use a 3.0 pump. You also don't have to replace all the bearings then (depending on milage, mine had 4 miles on it). Then you have to have the front snout cut to fit the 3.0 balancer(3.3 snout is larger). I had the balancer and crank each cut half of what was needed, so as to not take too much off either. Of course both have to have new keyways cut in them then. Leave 3.3 crank timing gear on and you can keep the 100K timing belt. Plus, you still have a complete 3.0 long block (pretty much worthless if you use the crank).

3.Then swap all the tin and sensors from the 3.0 to the 3.3, including the intake and injection. NOTE: You can leave the 3.3 valve covers on, but they have clips for lots of junk your truck doesn't need, so I used the 3.0 covers to make it look clean. I threw on a set of pacesetter headers while I was at it. I had to drill a few stud holes out on the headers to make them fit, but the ports are fine. (Think this has to do with header quality, not different engines.)

EFFECT: Keep in mind my 3.0 had 190K on it, but burned only a quart every 3K miles. Hiles I couldn't pull in 4th gear, I could now accelerate on in 5th. I couldn't use 5th before, and the day after I finished the swap, I moved 1400 miles. I had about 700 pounds in the box, and probably 600 in the trailer I was pulling and only occassionly had to downshift to fourth for really big hills. I paid $1200 for the 3.3 with 4 miles on it (train wreck of vehicles from factory), try rising sun engines in CA, they're on the net somewhere. By the time I was done, with headers, new bearings, syncros, and seals in the tranny, and new seals in the transfer case, I spent about $3200 (this includes throttle body rebuild, high flow injectors, any switch/valve/hose you coudln't get to once engine was installed). Considering the extra power and torque of the new motor, and high miles on my old engine (and the cost of rebuilding that) I think it was the best money I've spent on my truck. I feel the actual cost of engine work alone on the 3.3, compared to machining and all new parts for the 3.0, was comparable, if not cheaper.

Here are some F.A.Q.'s:
1. Gas Milage - (keeping in mind I put in high flow injectors and headers) Milage went up 1-1.5 MPG (mostly due to not lugging anymore with big tires, I'm sure)

2. Intake/Injection - I put the 3.0 manifold on the 3.3 (direct bolt up) and as such, used all original computer/wiring/injection, etc.

3. Power - (although I had high miles, my old 3.0 ran great)Once again, I added high flow injectors and headers, but the power gain was very obvious, especially pulling hills.

4. Will the 3.0 heads fit? - as far as I know, yes. However, at nismo and other places, they all said the 3.3 head was a better design.

5. Do the stock motor mounts fit? - Yes, blocks are the same for mounting locations.

6. Can I swap a supercharged 3.3? - Technically, yes. However, you would need to swap all wiring, sensors, ecu, etc. Way more work than I care to do.

7. Will it bolt right up to the tranny? - Yes, just make sure if you have an engine from an automatic tranny (like I did), and if you have a manual (like I did), that you put a pilot bearing in the crankshaft.

8. Can I use the 3.3 accesories so I don't have to swap/modify the crank? I have no clue. I would imagine if you cared to probably swap wiring plugs and figure out all the wiring/possible hose changes, etc., you maybe could. Once again, this is a possible trainwreck I wanted to avoid.

9. Why the crank machining/swap? It's a long mess, but here it is.. to use your old acessories, you need to use the old crank pulley, to use the old crank pulley (3.3 is different), you need the old harmonic balancer, to do that you need the old timing cover (3.3 balancer has larger o.d.), to use the old timing cover, you need the 3.0 oil pump (different shape), to do that...you need to swap/machine crank.

If anyone has additional questions, feel free to P.M.

This is for desert lady to put in the how to

Nice thanks for the write up.

yep nobody else that I know of did it the way I did, so I thought I would put that info out there

in case people try this...some machinists aren't really set up to machine the crank the way it is (they can, but they don't like to ) I had a snowmobile engine machinist do mine. He did a great job, one day turnaround...just a thought