Written by Desert Rat

As most of us know, stock Nissan centerlinks leave much to be desired in the durability department. As time passes, more and more aftermarket “cures” are arriving on the market. SLR has a good product, and Calmini will soon be out with theirs. While the SLR setup maintains a relatively stock configuration, the Calmini setup takes a different approach on how the CL and the tierods are connected. Both configurations address the weak link, however, and replace the stock centerlink and it’s weak bushing setup. AC will also be on the market soon with setups of their own. Another option are the heim joint setups that have been fabricated by a few individuals, as well as the modification to remove the pins on a stock CL and replacing them with spherical bearings and through bolts. If you wheel your Nissan a lot, these setups, while expensive, will pay for themselves in the long run, as stock centerlinks just don’t hold up on lifted trucks running larger tires.

What causes a stock CL to go bad is the upward pressure placed on them when tierods are angled upward from the steering knuckle inward. In stock, unlifted form, this isn’t nearly as pronounced as it is on a lifted truck. This upward pressure creates leverage that rotates the CL upward on its mounts to the idler and pitman arms and quickly wears the bushings out in the stock CL. Once worn, the studs mounting the tierods to the factory CL can come in contact with the frame in wheeling scenarios and can snap tierods like toothpicks. Even the beefier tierod center adjusters sold by EOE and others are prone to this breakage when a stock centerlink goes bad.

Below are instructions for the replacement of a stock Centerlink on the Xterra/Frontier platform if this is the route you choose. If you have a D21 or 720 truck, the method is similar, but I believe some of the nuts may be sized differently.

Tools Needed:
• 3 lb short handled sledgehammer
• tie-rod end separator (optional)
• 19mm wrench or socket
• 22mm wrench or socket
• Sturdy Pliers for cotter pin removal and replacement
• ½” socket if steering stabilizer is installed

Centerlink Removal:
• Lift the front of the truck and secure it on jackstands so the front wheels are off the ground.
• Remove the skidplate using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the U-bolts securing the steering stabilizer if so equipped using a ½” socket.
• Remove the cotter pins from the inner tierod ends where they fasten to the CL.
• Remove the cotter pins from the idler arm and pitman arm pins where the CL fastens to them.
• Remove the nuts securing the inner tierod ends to the CL using a 22mm socket or wrench.
• Remove the castle nuts securing the CL to the idler and pitman arms using a 19mm socket or wrench.
• Now take your hammer and whack the end of the CL just in front of where the tierods go through. Don’t be afraid to hit it HARD. If you’ve hit it correctly, the tierods will pop right out.
• If the CL didn’t come out of the idler and pitman arms, hit the sides of those arms where the CL pins go through. Again, once hit adequately, it’ll pop right out.
• Remove the CL. You may need to move the idler arm from side to side to get it out of there.

NOTE: Some people prefer to use a ball joint separator (pickle fork) to do this. I do not prefer this method, as it can easily damage the grease seals on the tierods allowing dirt and water to enter the tierod ends.

This is a good time to check wear on idler arm bushings. Grab the idler arm to see if it has “chuck” on its mount. If there’s any movement on it’s mount, your bushings are likely shot. These can be ordered through your local Nissan dealer for a few dollars.

Installation of the new CL is the reverse of the disassembly procedure.

Centerlink Installation:
• First install the new CL on the idler and pitman arms.
• Replace the castle nuts on the new CL pins and tighten to spec. Use the new cotter pins supplied with the kit and bend them so they can’t come out.
• Next, reinstall the tierod ends into the CL. You will need to turn the wheels by hand to get them positioned correctly so the tierod end can go into the hole on the CL.
• Reinstall the 22mm nuts on the tierod ends.
• NOTE: Here is when having a second person can be handy. Sometimes the studs on the tierod ends will just spin, making it impossible to tighten down the nut. Lower the truck and get the front wheels back on the ground. Then, get someone in the truck with the key on (so the steering wheel doesn’t lock) and have them turned the wheel to maintain pressure on the tierod ends. This should keep the studs from turning so you can tighten the nuts. Repeat the procedure on the other side.
• Insert and bend the cotter pins on the tierod studs.
• Reinstall your steering stabilizer if so equipped.
• Reinstall the skidplate.

It is now a good idea to have the truck aligned again.