Written by Desert Rat

Spencer Low Racing is making a replacement centerlink for Nissans. The basic kit includes a replacement fully welded centerlink, two spherical bearings, two machined and hardened pins, gusseted idler and pitman arms, and the necessary mounting hardware. Options for the kit include the SLR Idler Arm Brace and Tierod Center Adjusters. Since I already have EOE center adjusters and an AC idler arm brace, I did not opt for these additional parts. The basic kit costs $900, but you can get about $185 of that back if you return your stock idler and pitman arms as long as they are in good condition. Offerings of this kit in the near future will also include bronze bushings for the idler arm and a beefier idler arm mounting system. I do not yet have these pieces installed.

Tools Needed:
• small sledge hammer
• pliers for the cotter pins
• 17, 19, and 22 mm sockets and wrenches
• a large crescent wrench for the pitman arm nut
• a pitman arm puller.

Installation is straight forward:
• Begin by removing the cotter pins from the CL side of the tierod ends and the bottom of the centerlink pins.
• Next, remove the 22mm nut holding each tierod end to the CL.
• Now remove the castle nuts from the CL pins. Once disassembled, take your hammer and whack the CL from the side just in front of the tierods. Don't be afraid to hit it hard. The tierod ends will pop out. Do the same on the idler and pitman arms to loosen the CL from those.
• The CL should come right out now (if you have a steering stabilizer, that will need to be removed from the CL as well). I prefer this method to using a pickle fork, as it does not damage the grease seals on the tierod ends. The Nissan techs I know at the proving grounds do the same.
• Next, remove the large nut holding the pitman arm on to the steering shaft.
• Use a puller to remove the pitman arm. Penetrating oil is your friend here.
• Install the new SLR pitman arm in the reverse procedure and securely fasten the nut.
• Next, remove the idler arm. There are 3 bolts that go all the way through the frame holding the mounting bracket on.
• Now install the new SLR Idler arm.

Installation of the new CL is the reverse of disassembly. When you receive your kit, washers will be taped to the CL in the positions they belong, so pay attention to this when you open and inspect your package. The kit uses nylon lined nuts rather than lock washers to ensure it doesn't come loose on you. The spherical bearing is clamped between the arms and the shear plate on top of the arms. This eliminates the upward flex that destroys stock CL's. Reattach the tierods and install the cotter pins and you are ready for an alignment.

The Verdict:
On the road, the SLR CL feels just like a good stock one, only the steering is a little tighter. The SLR CL maintains stock steering geometry due to its dogbone design, but as previously stated, the shear mount elminates the upward twisting motion that angled tierods and larger rims and tires place on stock parts.

I've had this setup offroad several times now, as well as driving about 1500 highway miles. I'm glad to report absolutely no problems with the setup. My truck is locked and I'm running 32" Swampers, so needless to say, it gets wheeled pretty hard. I've done everything from high speed gravel/washboard roads to low speed rock crawling and loos hillclimbs requiring lots of throttle; the latter of which is the most common cause of tierod breakage due to stock pieces going bad. The truck has done many 3 wheel stands in off camber situations, and I've inadvertently plowed one wheel into immovable rocks with no damage. Stock tierods with beefier centers are adequate for this setup. What typically causes them to break with stock pieces is when the CL twists upward, and the tierod end stud hits the frame. Your power steering can then easily overpower a tierod and snap it. Even EOE pieces are prone to this.

Overall, I'm very pleased with this setup. Another individual with the kit contacted me and told me his idler arm bushings went right away. I have not experienced this, and the bronze bushings now offered with the kit should remedy this anyway, making it a non issue. I strongly recommend the use of an idler arm brace, as the idler arm mount becomes the weakest link with this setup.

As for the price, I feel it is too steep for what you get with the kit. However, in the past year, I've replaced my stock CL 5 times. Had I purchased this kit then (if available), it would have paid for itself by now in stock parts.