|
|
|
|
Go
![]() |
New
![]() |
Find
![]() |
Notify
![]() |
Tools
![]() |
Reply
![]() |
|
|
Wheeler N4W Card Holder ![]() Off-Road Warrior ![]() |
Hey guys,
I'm going to start welding up some body parts. I have a 79 Bronco that needs a bit of rocker panel repair. I want so opinions on which welder might be best. I would like to weld up rock sliders in the future, maybe a bumper too. But right now I need it for body work. Plus it needs to be EASY to use for I have never welded before and no shop around Washington DC wants do anything custom unless you are going to spend HUGE bucks with them. Also, I want to use a standard 120 volt setup if possible. opinions...? Jason Little Old Nissan Patrol, V8 Power, Auto, rear locker, 36" TSL 1979 Ford Bronco,408 4spd |
||
|
|
Administrator N4W Card Holder ![]() Arrr.. Me good eye! Ultimate N4Wheeler ![]() |
A Lincoln Weldpak 100 works well for that kinda stuff. Get one that has a shielding gas option if you are going to do a lot of welding. Much much cleaner and better welds.
Ideally, any of the big name units will work fine, but you really want to get one that has infinitely adjustable wire speed at a minimum. infinitely adjustable wire speed AND power if at all possible. I'm not sure if they make 120v units with both, but its worth a look. Its all about being able to fine tune for each welding situation. The more you can fine tune it, the better weld you will get. As an example, with a 100amp 120v unit, using shielding gas, you can expect to be able to weld up to 1/8" thick steel. Using flux core wire on the same welder will let you weld up to 1/4" plate, but the welds may be a little porous due to the flux burning off. BTW, how is the Patrol doing? I miss the beast. |
|||
|
|
Wheeler N4W Card Holder ![]() Off-Road Warrior ![]() |
Thanks for the advice on the welder. I'll be quite busy trying to fix the rust on my old 79.
The Patrol is going well. I have some "new" full doors, a sweet hood, and window frame. So over the next month or so I plan on sanding the rig and putting a layer of primer and giving it a fresh paint job to be sure no rust sneaks up on it. Recently, I have been having some stalling problems. Almost like it is starving for fuel. I have relocated the fuel pump right near the tank in the back just to be sure. But I know it is getting plenty of fuel. I really think it is the points. Usually it starts well when cold but will die on me as soon as the RPMs drop at a light then will start right back up. I'm looking at a getting a tune up set (plugs cap rotor wires) and dumping the points for a petronics set. My attempts working with points on my original Patrol never went well for me. I'll have to chalk point adjusting up to a lost art status. Finally, I wish there were more wheeling spots near me like in Northern AZ. Oh well just another 2-3 years until my wife is done with her PhD and I'm off to a fun place to live again! Jason Little Old Nissan Patrol, V8 Power, Auto, rear locker, 36" TSL 1979 Ford Bronco,408 4spd |
|||
|
NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
A small mig will do good on body panels. If you want to weld rock sliders or more structural stuff you need a 220 unit.
I recommend starting with a stick then go to a mig. In my opinion welding is a skill. It's very important to get the basics down before you handy cap yourself by using a "easy" welder. 1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
|||
|
|
Wheeler N4W Card Holder ![]() Off-Road Warrior ![]() |
Yeah, good point! I do plan on taking a class at the local comm college sometime soon before I get too silly with any critical systems. Jason Little Old Nissan Patrol, V8 Power, Auto, rear locker, 36" TSL 1979 Ford Bronco,408 4spd |
|||
|
|
New Member |
Funny you posted this up, I'm in the same boat.
I'm also looking at getting a "My first Welder" kit of some kind, and was wondering what the best options would be. I'm planning on going the 220 route though, as I'm fortunate enough to be related to a licenced electrician, and he's going to run a 220 plug out to my garage for me for it. Any reccomendations on a 220 welder for someone just starting out? Like jmcallis, I'm also planning on taking a welding course at my local college, so I should have the basics down pat (I hope). Would I be better off to take the course FIRST, and then get a welder once I have a better idea of what I'm doing? Because I can, that's why... |
|||
|
|
Moderator N4W Card Holder ![]() Ultimate N4Wheeler ![]() |
Miller 180 is a pretty nice 220V setup. That's what I'm gonna upgrade to.
----------------------------- My myspace page. TUPPERWARE!!!! "Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience." |
|||
|
NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
YES take the class first. Personally I like the old fashion stick. A mig is good but definitely should not be a first welder. Just because you can push a trigger and go doest mean anything. 1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
|||
|
N4W Card Holder![]() Rock Crawler |
It could be vapor lock.Possibly moving the fuel line away from the engine as much as possible would help. Stop Suburbanization.Fill your yard with old,rusty trucks and DO YOUR PART!! |
|||
|
|
Wheeler N4W Card Holder ![]() Off-Road Warrior ![]() |
OK, so here is a strange development. So it was starting hard and for three times is a row if I sprayed just a bit of starting fluid down the carb (Edelbrock 650)it started right up with ease. I tried this on three separate attempts. I even had to keep giving it little squirts from time to time and it would stay running on the starting fluid. (The engine is a mystery year ford 302) I also was going to check the timing before i went out and upgraded the ignition. Turns out that either the timing pointer has been moved from the Passenger side to the driver's side, or the harmonic balancer is wrong. So rather than doing anything with it last night I figured to think through it before I have way too many variables to deal with. Another question, do the 4 barrel Edlebrock carbs shoot two visible jets of fuel when you pump the throttle by hand? I tried this several times and I seemed to only get misting amounts of fuel. I'm starting to wonder if something is messing with my carbs internals. Again the truck seems to idle very well in park, but when I out it in drive it will almost die immediately if I don't give it gas. Also, the engine seems smooth at mid to high throttle. However, there could be some fuel starving going on at high demands. Man, I think I just hijacked my own tread... |
|||
|
N4W Card Holder![]() Rock Crawler |
BTW,Millermatic or the Lincoln both work fine.I have a Miller,but have used both.
Stop Suburbanization.Fill your yard with old,rusty trucks and DO YOUR PART!! |
|||
|
|
BA-AA-AA-AH! Rock Crawler ![]() |
I believe the Edelbrock is the old Carter AFB design (or I could be wrong). You should pump some fuel via the accelerator pumps that is visible as a very fine mist with you manually work the linkage. Might need a rebuild. If it is the old Carter design, a rebuild is easy.
John (Senior) Cottonweed, AZ 2002 F350 4X4 Diesel Mothership 1983 280ZXT road scorcher 1998 Sheep Sahara 2007 Kawasaki 1600 Vulcan "Mean Streak" |
|||
|
|
Wheeler N4W Card Holder ![]() Off-Road Warrior ![]() |
Hi Senior,
Yeah you sure remember this old Patrol! I do see a mist, but I guess I expected to see a small jet of gas (like the old clunker 1 barrel carbs in my old CJ or the original Patrol Carter carb. |
|||
|
|
Administrator N4W Card Holder ![]() Arrr.. Me good eye! Ultimate N4Wheeler ![]() |
Yep, the Edlebrock on the old Patrol is definitely a Carter AFB clone. The last time I rebuilt it, I used a Carter AFB rebuild kit. Its probably due for another one. When the carb is fresh, that truck runs great.
The Engine, from what I remember, is out of a 71 or 72 Ford Torino. I couldnt tell you though if the balancer has been swapped on it. I never tried to set timing on it. |
|||
|
|
Wheeler N4W Card Holder ![]() Off-Road Warrior ![]() |
Perfect! That gets me much closer to my needs. I was wondering where the engine came from. When I was driving the truck all over the place in Flagstaff it ran great and last fall it was going great too. I imagine the sit through the winter didn't help that carb too much. As for the timing, I think I'll have to check it out after my vacation next week. Sounds like the pointer was moved due to the relocation of the alternator. Don't you just love the challenges of modified vehicles... |
|||
|
| Previous Topic | Next Topic | powered by eve community |
| Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|

