forst off where did the 720 section go, havent been on here for quite a while, and now its gone...

2nd, I got a redline carb conversion on my 720, runs good, WAY WAY more power, however now I have a problem, it will always start up, and run as long as I need it to so it gets me to my first stop, and if I start it up again soon then its fine, but if I shut it off and go into the store, when I come out it starts right up but usually about the time Im gonna pull out of the parking spot it wants to die, and I can fool with the choke and or throttlke and almost keep it running for a few seconds, it ultimately dies and then wont start til it sits for a while, which Im guessing is to cool. the temp guage doesnt read much higher than it used to, I mean its barely higher sometimes depending on my drivinf at the moment but its still usually around halfway, so it doesnt seem to be running much hotter, and the fuel lines basicall taking the exact same route as it used to?

anyone else had this problem after a carb swap? anything I should try wrapping the fuel line with? my uncle said on one of his old cars he put a bunch of clothes pins on the metal fuel line and they actually worked as heatsinks and that cured it. havent tried it yet as I currently dont sdrive my truck and its parked about an hour away from my house, but I wanna sell my car soon and drive the truck again but not if it keeps doing this.

oh and anyone know anything about a memorial day trip this year in WA or OR?

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It sounds like you may have a heat-soak problem. This often happens when an aluminum carburetor replaces a pot-metal carburetor. The solve for this is an insulating gasket or heat shield. The link below has much info about Vapor lock:

VAPOR LOCK 101
http://groups.msn.com/JEEPTECH101/jeeptech.msnw?action=...=4675450264302701916

Have a good one while you can still laugh about it.. Don S..
If something I’ve posted on the Internet offends you please ignore it.
If you don’t know how to ignore something on the Internet e-mail me … and I’ll demonstrate.

well, I definately have some things to try? but is heat-soak basically give the same results? and about the insuylating gasket? how well does plastic transfer heat because the adapter plate is (I THINK!) a plastic material but I cant be positive cuz I havent been under the hood for a while. I was thinking of getting an electric fan, running the fuel line thorugh some small trans cooler or something and hacing the fan pull air through it and then have it so when I get out of the truck hit a switch ansd the fan kicks on and draws heat from the fuel system and when I get out of the store maybe it will be cool enough to start and stay running, plus while Im driving and air goes thorugh it, it will keep it from ever getting as hot.

another question is my fuel mileage so horrible because of this maybe? or just cuz of the carb, its a 32/36 as far as I remember. I do drive it "un"like a grandma but not that bad and I usually get like 13-15 is all. and freeway doesnt get any better its usually like 14 fwy.

quote:

Originally posted by maddmatt02:
well, I definately have some things to try? but is heat-soak basically give the same results? and about the insuylating gasket?

another question is my fuel mileage so horrible because of this maybe? fwy.

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Some insulators are made of plywood.

Heat Soak is Boil Over and in a “Nut Shell”
Basically boil over is the fuel converting to a vapor in the bowl of the carburetor when a hot engine is turned off.
Symptoms are the engine will not restart hot or cold until the fuel pump can refill the carburetor. Other symptoms can include poor fuel mileage and poor drivability.
Major cause is overheating of the carburetor also known as heat soak.
Best remedies are insulating the carburetor from the manifold, install/reinstall cool fresh air intake system, checking the two heat rising systems for proper operation.

Vapor Lock in a “Nut Shell”.
Basically vapor lock is the fuel converting to a vapor in the fuel pump or feed line and the pump not able to pump vapor.
Symptoms are the engine sputters, acting like it is running out of fuel, dies, and will not restart while hot if not fed with a quality electric pump
Major causes are overheating of the fuel, fuel pump and negative pressure in the feed line of the fuel pump.
Best remedies are insulating and/or rerouting fuel pump feed line. Replace mechanical pumps with properly installed quality electric fuel pump. Adding a small return fuel line on the output line of the pump.

Have a good one while you can still laugh about it.. Don S..
If something I’ve posted on the Internet offends you please ignore it.
If you don’t know how to ignore something on the Internet e-mail me … and I’ll demonstrate.

ok, well mine definately always starts again, it just dies shortly after and sputters first like Im running out of gas, so Im gonna go after the problem as vapor-lock first, and if I dont succeed Ill try to cure the other one.

thanks for the help