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I have a V6. What size pipe should I run? I am going to be running just straight pipe with maybe 2 or 3 bends. No catalytic convertor and no muffler. I don't want to hear criticizm about how I don't run a muffler or a cat because it's been discussed before, and I don't plan on running either. Period. So that said, I'm thinking either 2" or 2.25". That should give enough back pressure with two or three bends. What does everyone think?

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I would go with the 2.25 but thats just me, I think it would sound a lil better than the 2" if i remember correctly.

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Posts: 321 | Location: Garland, Tx | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I really don't care about sound. I can't distinguish between Swampers, wind from having no doors, or exhaust right now. It's all really freakin loud.. HAHAHA

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Not more than 2.5" Mikey. Anything bigger will kill the torque curve. Stock, I think V6's are 2.25...or at least the later models are.


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Posts: 22120 | Location: Home of the AZ runs | Registered: June 22, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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On my old VW rabbit I had a mandrel bent 2.25 and it was a 2.0 four cylinder. If you go with smash bent pipe I would get 2.5 inch piping.

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Posts: 189 | Location: Albuquerque, NM | Registered: July 11, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Don't our engines need some kind of back pressure to keep the low end torque??

I'm not an engine expert, but I would rather have alot more low end power for wheeling than high end for cruising the freeways. Just something to consider.....and no, I don't care if you have a staight pipe. However, I think that you might need something in there to keep some of your torque. Am I right or wrong?

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Posts: 1433 | Location: San Diego CA | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'd go with 2" or 2.25" max size. Recommended size for muffler and cat equipped VG30's is 2.25".

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Posts: 175 | Location: Fuerstenfeldbruck, Bavaria, Germany | Registered: July 05, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Well, the exhaust was leaking from where the new O2 sensor was and where the old O2 sensor was. When I went to buy the pipe (2" bendable type) I noticed some exhaust crack repair stuff. So, I tried it out before bending any pipe. It worked! The major exhaust leaks are gone, and the Pathy's running much better due to more back pressure from the exhaust not escaping. I'll probably find some other pipe and find a way to bend it over the axle and out the side like a stock truck. Or, just put on a cherry bomb that's like 1.75" pipe... Not sure..

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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DocP ran no muffler for a day on his V6. RICE!!!! Dude it sounded horrible after about 3K rpm. His ended at about the rear tire when we drove it like that. More bends and more pipe would help but be prepared for RICE!!! big grin

Mr. Will

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Posts: 7711 | Location: Georgia | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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an1malch1n. You are correct. backpressure helps produce torque. If you run an open exhaust you lose a LOT of the torque that you would have otherwise.

I remember this from when I tried to run my 510 on an open collector back when it was an automatic tranny. It WOULDNT move due to the complete lack of torque.. The torque that was being created wasnt enough to operate the torque converter properly and it just sat there wheezing until I put the exhaust back on (then it was fine). RUnning without a muffler (or glasspack, or something to create *some* backpressure) is just silly.

I'd rather have the torque and a quieter exhaust personally..

Mikey, that crack repair stuff will eventually fall off. I've used it in the past. Worked fine for about 1,000 miles or so, then it got loud again. Why dont you pull the exhaust down and weld that part up?

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Posts: 18641 | Location: Mesa, AZ | Registered: June 23, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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When I swap the axle I will weld it all up good and tight. My excuse for not doing it now? The driveshaft for the IFS is in the way. (Or is that a reason to do the axle swap? hehehe)

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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True.. I unbolted my front driveshaft though to pull apart my exhaust when i was hunting down the leak I had.. its not too time consuming.

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Posts: 18641 | Location: Mesa, AZ | Registered: June 23, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Datz510 did you finally fix the leak/leaks?
 
Posts: 89 | Registered: June 26, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Got most of them. Still have one or two, but they arent bad. I think my Y pipe might be cracked, but I havent pulled the heatshields off to see yet.

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Posts: 18641 | Location: Mesa, AZ | Registered: June 23, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Has anyone put on a set of headers and lost a bunch of low-end torque ?? I've noticed that Nissan engineered some small restricting discs into the collectors and after removing them, my low-end is fine, my to-end is great, but right around cruising rpms (2800) there is absolutely no juice left... ?
Am thinking about doing a nice new system with the headers, 2.25" pipe and whatever muffler. I'de like to try Borla. But would I be loosing a lot of low-end action due to the higher flow rate of said system ?

 
Posts: 78 | Registered: July 26, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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