This is the Truck ("Runs Great"...LOL):

http://www.bargainnews.com/viewad.cfm?Show_Notepad=Yes&...D=6625413&TheDealer=

These are the things I already know:

- It hesitates very badly under acceleration (But no Check Engine Light).

- The idle is very rough. It Bounces from 500-800 RPM.

- Suspension is Bouncy. Shocks are very rusty (probably original), but show no signs of leaking.

- It has a Cone air filter....in addition to the stock air filter (LOL).

- The Rear Sliding Window is busted (but sealed up w/plexi glass).

- Driver's Tailight is busted.

- Driver's Door is "Keyed" badly (see post below).

- Other small dents, dings and small rust spots...but otherwise OK.
bed and frame in good condition!

- Headliner fabric is drooping. 1/2 Dollar-size tear on Driver's Door vinyl, otherwise Interior just needs a good deep cleaning.

- NEW Windshield, NEW Driver's Window, NEW Upper/Lower Ball Joints.

The Dealer I took it to found the following:

- Clutch may be slipping a little.

- Rear Main Seal is Leaking (can be done during a clutch job).

- Valve Cover Gasket is Leaking slightly.

- Passenger Tie Rod Assembly needs to be Replaced (Tire is worn badly on edges).

- Will need an Alignment when Tie Rods replaced.

- Passenger Tire (Front) has "play" at 12 and 6 o'clock. (Possible Wheel Bearing Issue).

- Engine "surges" at idle and hesitates on acceleration (Possible Throttle Position Sensor Issue).

- Exhaust Tail Pipe is Missing. Only a small piece left after the muffler.

- Tire Tread Depth ranges from 4-6 MM. Will need new tires before winter.

So......I still want the truck. It's been very hard trying to find a good 4 cylinder (4WD w/manual 5-spd.) Nissan with very little bed/frame rust in CT for under my price range of $4,000. I can overlook the interior/exterior blemishes for now.

Mechanically...it has a few more problems than originally anticipated. I am not too concerned about the VCG and Rear Main Seal. I can live with leaks. It's more the suspension and engine issues that really bother me. Especially the hesitation on acceleration/bouncy idle. The Service Advisor thinks its a bad Throttle Position Sensor. It needs to be diagnosed further.

The kid selling it want's $3,000 or Best Offer and needs to sell it fast. the Dealer said offer him $1,500. I think $2,000 is more reasoble based on the condition of the frame and bed. I would probably have to spend $1,500 in parts and labor to get it up to snuff mechanically (excluding new tires and rear window). I can do basic repairs/maintenance like replacing shocks, fluids, spark plugs, etc. Engine diagnosis/repair and wheel bearings/tie rods are not at my skill level.

Do you think $2,000 is a reasonable offer? I don't want to miss out on this truck either.

Thanks for reading this lonnnng post!

Lowball him on the offer and see if he bites. If you want it that badly, you can always offer more.

Used car buying 101. You do have a fair amount of stuff to fix, but if you can do the work yourself (the clutch is a fairly big job since you have to take down the front suspension to do it), it still might be a good deal.

that makes me so happy that i grabbed mine for 3300 and it has very little problems except for a rear main seal and the tranny's front bearing is whineing like a mofo.

and im very sure you dont have to touch the front suspension to drop the tranny out.

quote:

Originally posted by Ocula:
and im very sure you dont have to touch the front suspension to drop the tranny out.

Actually, you do. You must remove the torsion bars and their crossmember.

The only alternative is if you remove the engine, but that requires dropping the front axle.

thats sucks for me cause my trans is going out lol.

take maybe 10 min to drop the torsion and crossmember...

Yes low ball the price. 4K is to much money for the truck. He's got the price at a truck in good condition. The condition of the truck is in Poor condition, meaning you have to spend significant $$ to get it up to par.

As fare as the suspension. I would say any original hardbody will need new suspension and brake components. These trucks are pushing 12+ years. The only thing that concerns me is the engine.

Tally up the amount of money it would cost you to get the truck up to par then subtract that from the asking price. Now you've got wjhat the truck is worth.

Hell the hesitation is probably partly due to the fact of trying to suck from 2 air filters.

That is quite possible.

I bought a new OEM air filter...but have yet to put it in and remove the cone filter.

I will post an update on what happens when I do.

Won't be for a few days though as I am in Italy right now...LOL.

quote:

Originally posted by Reserector:

quote:

Originally posted by Ocula:
and im very sure you dont have to touch the front suspension to drop the tranny out.

Actually, you do. You must remove the torsion bars and their crossmember.

The only alternative is if you remove the engine, but that requires dropping the front axle.

uhhh is the frontiers different

i was able to pull the engine up n out

got the last tranny bolt threw the shifter

So you removed the tranny from the engine. Res was talking about removing the engine and tranny as an assembly.