I am new to this site and i bought my first truck, a 90 SE V6 King cab, and its got a lot of miles on it and it tends to bog down when i let of the clutch, anybody familiar with this issue? also i am having trouble deciding how big i need to go to get some 35"s on here, it looks like a lot of peope go with the calmini 3" SL and another 2"-3" with an add a leaf or BL, are 35's to big? with 33" are there any advantages? im looking for ground clearence and duribility. any tis would be awesome. also i am glad to have stumbled onto this site people seem to know wht thy are alking about and thats always a good find

first off welcome to N4W beast

this is probably the best polace to find info on your truck lots of knowledgable folk on this site. Now after I say that Im going to let you know that I know Pooh about the hardbodys engine.

I do know that 35's on a hardbody is going to require alot of cutting and lifting. Alot more than 3 inch suspension lift.

A 3 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift MIGHT do the trick but I think your better of putting 33's under your truck. Not as much of a lift burdeon and a good place to start out a rock crawler.

Again welcome and happy wheeling.

Welcome, When I had 35s od my '90 I had a 4" Trail Master lift, cranked T-bars, and a 3" body lift. I Cleared 35s after I let the tires form the rear lower corner of the wheel opening. I had maybe a 1/16" clearance at full lock under compression. It ate front end components like crazy. I replaced bearings once a year. A calmini or SLR sterring upgrade would definately be needed. In the rear I needed 3" blocks and way long shackles. It ate ujoints alot as it had the two piece d-shaft. It looked tough sitting on 35s but it was not cheap.

33's seem to be the way to go, and they still require cutting, even with the 3" suspension and 2" body lifts I have. You just can't cut enough to get 35's in the front, you'd be into the B pillar. To fit 33's I had to cut the rear of the fender all the way back to the pillar.

-Spike

I had 33x10.5 on mine with a 3" body lift and the front torsions cranked an 1" or 2" and cheap $15 universal lift shakles in the rear giving about 2" of lift.

The bogging that you mentioned may be a timing issue. I had the same problem and solved it (on my 4 banger) by adjusting the timing to the factory setting. Somehow it had become too far advanced by about 4º.
My 86.5 HB sits on 33's with no lift that I am aware of. The previous owner cut and hammered the front wheel openings for clearance. The rear clears fine as-is. I plan to keep mine low to clear tree branches. I will refine the bodywork before I paint it, of course.
Mine is showing some wear in the center link which is probably due to the offset of the (chrome wagon spoke) wheels.

I ran 33x10.5/15 on Blck Rockcrawler rims (15x8) for 2 years. No trimming in the rear (when I had a bed), and trimmed almost to the door in the front (some slight hammering of the front of the rockers was also needed). This was w/a 2" body lift, and Revolver Shackles w/Add-a-Leaf.

my brother has a 91 with a 3and 3 with 35 he didnt have to trim the back but up front he did have to trim a little