Ok, I was going to start this in early January, but just didnt have the time till now. Not sure if I'm in the right section either, but here is my story.

One day my good friend and I were wreching on his 240sx project(SR20DET swap)



and we needed a tool that we didnt have. Lucky us, his dad happens to be a ASE Certified Nissan Tech that has every tool imaginable. We drove to his dads work and picked up the tool we needed. As we were leaving, his dad mentioned that there was a truck parked outside with a blown engine. He said the owner never came and got it so, they were going to tow it away to the junk yard. Looking over the truck I though to my self; this would be a great project. I got the owners number a little while later and I purchased my 95' Nissan Hardbody XE 4x4 in early January, 08.





In the Q&A section, I originaly asked (in someone elses thread) if I can use a 240sx KA24E engine for my swap; since the truck has a KA24E too. I knew the intake manifold, wiring and ECU were different, but was unsure of anything else. So I decided to get a 240sx engine on 2/9/08. They guy I purchased it from told me the bottom end was rebuilt and was ready to go.



So I brought it home and waited for the next day to start the swap. I had 3 of my friends come over to do it and it seriously only took us 4+ hours to pull the old engine out. By the way we pulled it without removing the front diff. Immediately we notice a huge difference in the block design.

Heres the truck KA






Heres the 240sx KA






If you notice on the truck KA; it has an adapter plate(which is removeable) in between where the bellhousing and block bolts up. On the 240sx KA it seems like the plate is part of the block(which is not removeable). After doing some measuring and verifying online I found out that the 240sx block is 10mm longer. The starters are different. The bellhousing bolts line up with the 240sx block, but I would imagine that you would have to move the engine mounts for it to fit. The flywheels are different too. I also found out(while doing the swap) that the truck KA had a rear-sump oil pan. Which means the oil pickup is closer to the back as is the dipstick. The crank pullies are different too. The 240sx KA was made in Japan and the truck KA was made in Mexico. I read the Mexico KA has a stronger bottom end. Other then that everything seems the same.

So the next day I decided to swap over all the accessories and everything else. I started with the oil pan on the 240sx and found this....

Im guessing it had a blown headgasket.




The oil pump gear was mangled with the oil thrower.


The rod bearing were shot too of course. I looked at the head without the valve cover when I bought it and everything seemed good, but I was wrong. When I took it off at my house and inspected it this is what I found....

This is what was under the Cam


I believe the springs is down because the valves were stuck. What do you think?


I called the guy back when I found that and got no answer. I emailed him back and no answer. So basically I got hella screwed over on this 240sx engine(should have known) . Now Im down $400 on this project. I decided to look for another truck engine, so I dont have to deal with this 240sx engine. It would cost me more to rebuild it then what its worth. Also I wouldnt even deal with the 240sx engine; you are better off rebuilding or getting the same engine, so you dont have to deal with the headache

I found another KA24E(w/90,000miles) out of a 2WD truck that rolled on the highway and Im a little hesitant on buying it. Its from a towing yard, but its never been compression tested or anything. I asked the guy if he could but he said the engine ran good when they drove it back(dont ask me how). Is there anything I should worry about?

I got the motor today. Funny thing was, the place was about to close as my friend stopped by there. He called me up, we put it into the back of his truck and we hauled the motor back to my house. It is quite heavy to lift it out of the truck; even with 3 people. We didnt have an engine hoist cause my other buddy is pulling his motor out of his DSM(again). Here are some pics of my motor:

I haven't even really started cleaning; this thing was filthy.


Anyone have any ideas on how I should clean up the block? The rust is an eye sore.


Also since my truck is blue I was thinking of painting the valve cover blue, but I thought of sanding it down and polishing it up too. Would I have to clear coat it or do I have to keep polishing it? What do you think?

I was thinking black too. I'll keep you guys posted. Feel free to leave replies.

You made the right choice. Its best to start with an engine thats designed to go into the vehicle.

i have a question what does the main caps look like on the truck moter and what is different in the flyweels

quote:

Originally posted by gear head:
i have a question what does the main caps look like on the truck moter and what is different in the flyweels

Not sure, what the main caps on the trucks KA looks like. As soon as I get my friends engine hoist and stand, then I'll take a look and post a pic. And as for the flywheel differences, I wouldnt know; I dont have the 240sx one. Probably the number of teeth and the distance between the starter.

"LordBiotree" you are right!! If you are going to buy an engine; get the one that was made for the car/truck. Even though Nissan made the KA24E in like 5 different vehicals, doesnt mean that they are all the same. Trust me, you will save yourself from a big headache if you just get the same engine.

i got me a truck moter and tore it a part and found out that the mains did not have a cratel on it and the end of the crank is diffent were the flyweel bolts up to it is shorter on the 240 and it has a peace sticking out were in goes in to the fly weel

Slow progress on the swap; going to school and work really takes up time. Im cleaning everything on the engine and in the truck though. I dont know why, Im just going to get it dirty anyway . Sooner then later the engine will be swapped in and she'll get fired up. I'll keep you guys posted.

Ok, we tried dropping the good motor in today and we ran into a little problem; The oil pan was hitting the front diff. I read about this before, but obviously I forgot

Can I still put it in this way some how?

Am I going to have to remove the front diff?

Or, can I remove the transmission, mount the engine, and then reinstall the trans? I think this is the easiest way I can do it, other then what Im doing now. I'll have more pics up later.

Any help is appreciated; Thanks

You did not state if the engine was out of a 2wd or not. If it's a 2wd engine all you'll need to do is swap over your 4wd pan.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:
You did not state if the engine was out of a 2wd or not. If it's a 2wd engine all you'll need to do is swap over your 4wd pan.

Ohh sorry, I did get an engine out of a 2WD truck and I did swap over the oil pan/pickup from my 4WD. Everything was a direct swap. Im guessing I cant put the engine in this way; cause I tried every way possible and the pan is still in the way. So now Im asking;

Do I have to remove the front diff?

Or, can I remove the transmission, mount the engine, and then reinstall the trans?

Is there a write-up on transmission removal?

Here are some pictures:

First is the 2WD engine block (T50) and second is the 4WD engine block (F40)




First F40 bottom-end and second T50 bottom-end




F40 oil pan/pickup






T50 oil pan/pick up






I'll have more pics later. Thanks

quote:

Or, can I remove the transmission, mount the engine, and then reinstall the trans?

I would remove the front axle if I could. save you from removing the tranny and reinstalling it. Since you have the engine out you should have adequate room to move the front axle around.

TO remove the front axle. remove the t-bars and all mounting hardware. Should not be hard since you have all the roam in the world without an engine installed.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:

quote:

Or, can I remove the transmission, mount the engine, and then reinstall the trans?

I would remove the front axle if I could. save you from removing the tranny and reinstalling it. Since you have the engine out you should have adequate room to move the front axle around.

TO remove the front axle. remove the t-bars and all mounting hardware. Should not be hard since you have all the roam in the world without an engine installed.

Yeah, now looking at it, the front axle would be easier to take out. Thanks

Now will I run into any problems when I reinstall the front axle when the engine is in? I know I have to jack the engine/tranny up to do so, but do I have to leave axle there(unbolted) when I drop the engine in?

To install or remove the axle with the engine in is a bit of a pain. I've removed and reinstalled my front axle 3 times. Every time I've removed the front axle I had most of all the front suspension off which gave me ample roam to wiggle the axle around and droop or install.

I would remove the front axle before I would try installing the tranny with the engine in the truck. The tranny is no joke installing/removing.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:
To install or remove the axle with the engine in is a bit of a pain. I've removed and reinstalled my front axle 3 times. Every time I've removed the front axle I had most of all the front suspension off which gave me ample roam to wiggle the axle around and droop or install.

I would remove the front axle before I would try installing the tranny with the engine in the truck. The tranny is no joke installing/removing.

Is there a write-up on installing/uninstalling the front axle?

I have the Hanes manual, but it's quite brief and not very descriptive.

What suspention parts did you take off? Do you have any pictures of your install/uninstall?

Okay, Im really bad at keepin up with the whole internet community, but heres the news... I finally finished this engine swap like 3 months ago with no problems at all. I mean, I was expecting something to go wrong, but everything turned out all gravy. Of course, the KA24E has its problems (like the chain tentioner and sticky lifters) but nothing really serious! So far I've driven the truck like 2000 miles and its been really good to me I guess the only problem Im having is adjusting the tortion bar on the passanger side. My truck has a lean! All in all, Im stoked I got this finished (of course with help from buddies) and in the near future I plan on doing another engine swap, but to a car this time. The engine swap was a biatch but it was fun and a good learning experience! Definately Blood, Sweat, and Tears went into this!

Thank you guys for all your info and hopefully some of you guys learned something from my little experience. (I'll post some pic of the truck later)