|
|
|
|
Go
![]() |
New
![]() |
Find
![]() |
Notify
![]() |
Tools
![]() |
Reply
![]() |
|
Pavement Pounder![]() |
Hey Guys,
I'm doing my first brake job on my 95 sev6 pickup and i'm having some trouble with the front. I'm replacing the pads and rotors. I took off the caliper and bracket and i cant figure out how to get to the rotors. I took out the 6 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor, but it still wont budge? Do I have to take off the cap where you lock the hubs and all the internal gears / parts inside of that??? If so i gotta say thats a pretty bad design. I would have thought the whole outer hub (4x4 mechanism) would pull off the rotor and out of the wheel bearing. I searched quite a bit on here to find some sort of tutorial to guide me along as well as provide some torque specs. Any help you guys can offer because this brake job is going 3 days |
||
|
|
Administrator N4W Card Holder ![]() Arrr.. Me good eye! Ultimate N4Wheeler ![]() |
The way you have to get them apart is with some hammering..
The way I've always done it.. 1. Suspend the rotor on either side in such a way that the hub hangs downwards (with the 6 attaching bolts on the top side) and has some room between it and your work surface. 2. Remove the 6 bolts that secure the rotor to the hub (which it sounds like youv'e done already) 3. Put a small block of wood over the inner hub seal and hub surface 4. Take a 3lb sledgehammer to the block and you'll see the hub slowly start to separate from the rotor. Generally, you have to hammer each side of top the inner hub surface to get the hub to slowly "rock" out of the rotor. |
|||
|
Pavement Pounder![]() |
I'm not sure i'm following...
Do i have to take off this piece held on by 6 hex bolts? Or does it stay bolted up to the hub? If so, i'm definetly afraid to deal with all these parts.... and wheel bearings.. |
|||
|
|
Administrator N4W Card Holder ![]() Arrr.. Me good eye! Ultimate N4Wheeler ![]() |
ok.. thats not what I was talking about. You will need to remove the outer hub (the part you show in your photo). After that, once you get it torn down to the wheel bearings, you need to remove the "bearing race" hub (the one that the wheel bearings are in) and rotor from the spindle.. on the back side of the rotor, you'll see there are bolts that hold the rotor to the hub. Remove these and then hammer the hub out of the rotor.
When you are taking it all apart, lay out some paper towels and put all the parts down in a line in the order you take them off. Makes it easier to remember how it goes back together. |
|||
|
|
NISSAN4WHEELER |
It is really not so bad. Laying the parts out in order makes it pretty straight forward to put it all back. Working through it is well worth the labor cost you won't pay.
-- If I were a medical man I would prescribe a vacation for any patient who thought their work important. |
|||
|
Dirt Road Driver![]() |
This should have the info you need, plus some.
Linky 2002 Frontier, SC, CC, 4x4. AC UCAs, AC 3-pack AALs, Calmini Shocks, L&P Stage 3 Steering, Shrockworks Front Bumper, 32"x11.5" BFG MTs, 15x8 Soft 8s. |
|||
|
Pavement Pounder![]() |
Just got in, have the project 95% complete, thanks guys! I have one slide on my passenger caliper bracket that is frozen. I sprayed it down with some pb to sit over night and figure out what to do with it in the morning. May have to get a new bracket.
I have a separate question this procedure had me wondering ... Do I have to manually lock my hubs on the 95 seV6 to engage 4 wheel drive, or can i just shift it into 4wd? I was reading in the haynes something about auto locking hubs and wasnt quite sure..? |
|||
|
|
NISSAN4WHEELER |
The picture you posted looks like a manual hub which is the kind you have to engage by hand by getting out and turning the center piece to lock the hub so it grabs the axle splines.
-- If I were a medical man I would prescribe a vacation for any patient who thought their work important. |
|||
|
| Previous Topic | Next Topic | powered by eve community |
| Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|

