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Pavement Pounder![]() |
I've got a pretty big problem here folks, on my 95 v6. The exhaust manifold on the passenger side has broken loose from the head. Looks like the top left stud has snapped. The manifold is slipping farther and farther away from where it should be and the truck is real loud. Dont think i can / should be driving it. Looks like there is no way in hell to get in there and A) take the rest of the studs out and remove the manifold and B) most importanty - drill and tap out the broken stud.
Now how many of you guys have had to deal with this? The only options to fix this i see is to pull the motor, or perhaps pull the head? Cant believe these seem like the best two options to me to fix an exhaust leak. I bit the bullet today and brought it to 6 different places, prepared to pay out, and nobody wants to touch it or look at it. So it looks like i'm on my own. What do you guys recommend for me to do? |
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NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
It's a common problem on the v6 to have broken exhaust studs. I've never heard all of the exhaust studs breaking.
Only ting you can do is drill out the exhaust manifold studs and install new ones. I have a few exhaust studs to replace on my truck. you will need to remove the headers and somehow get a drill in there. A 90 degree drill will probably work best. here's the parts you'll need. http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/index.php3?pag...8a264381921aae508dad 1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
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Pavement Pounder![]() |
Thank you for the link sir. Do you think these would be available at a local nissan dealer as well?
I was thinking i could borrow a 90 degree drill from my dad, but the tricky part is gonna be fitting it in there, and then drilling straight into the broken stud |
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NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
I would not go with Nissan studs. You are replacing them because they are weak. You want to but stronger studs which can handle the heat related stress caused by the exhaust manifold.
You also need a tap and die set. Once you remove the studs you'll need to retap the threads. 1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
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N4W Card Holder![]() NISSAN4WHEELER |
IIRC you might be able to get good access to those studs through the fenderwell, especially if you have a body lift.
-Spike 'Tolerance allows the weeds to overwhelm the garden' |
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NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
the studs that are in there from the factory are not the same you buy now. i think the only ones they sell now are from the turbo motor, they are stronger. this is what you replace the old ones with. i did it years ago on mine and the new ones hold up fine.
i also didnt have any probs removing my broken studs. the ones that break flush with the manifold, you can grab with vise grips and unscrew. a easy out works on the ones broken flush with the head. mine came out without a fight. |
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Dirt Road Driver |
When a couple of my manifold bolts broke, and my truck made this stupid chirping noise, i went ahead and bought some haeders. Then I took it to this small shop where my dad and had gotten to know the owner well. About 600 dollars and two days longer then expected the old manifolds were off and the headers were on.
3 inch susp. and body lift, 33's, other stuff. |
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Pavement Pounder![]() |
From past experiences of exhaust studs with 160kmi, they are basically welded in from the heat. But this one is recessed into the head about an 1/8", so theres no chance of grabbing it with vice grips.
Any idea how to get that out? |
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N4W Card Holder![]() NISSAN4WHEELER |
Left-handed drill bit, and if you get 3/8" deep without the stud coming out, use an easy out. Every manifold stud I've had to remove came out much easier than I expected it to.
-Spike 'Tolerance allows the weeds to overwhelm the garden' |
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Dirt Road Driver |
If I were you I would keep looking around, got mine fixed for $40, not worth the time or headache of doing it yourself, in my opinion.
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