Hello guys Instead of making a new thread for every day I work on my Truck I have created this.

6-7-06- Front Passenger side
Removed Rotor,Hub, inner and outer wheel bearing. The outer race of the bearing are parentally installed into the Hub. I did not know this. Also The inner and outer grease seals are the same. Explains why Carquest only listed one grease seal for the front.



In the Image above both grease seal "A" and "C" are the same part. Also Note that the FSM shows 2 pieces to each wheel bearing.

Here's a link for the 4X4 front wheel bearing grease Seal.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=...parttype=292&ptset=A

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removing Upper and lower Ball joint.

The hardest part is removing the cotter key. I was unable to remove both of mine. Thank god that these are big bolts which can easily thread over the cotter key. If your unable to remove the cotter key, take your dikes and cut as close to the ball joint as possible. You'll be able to remove the bolt if done as stated.

The upper ball joint is 23mm Nut. The lower is 1-1/16.

I was able to remove all hard wear from the upper ball joint. The lower ball joint I could remove the nuts but was un able to remove the bolts. Not enough room.

Once all H/W is removed from the ball joints. Push the UCA up and push the Knuckle Down and out.

I had to remove my shock to get my C/V axle out. KEEP your old C/V's. They will come in handy to use as cores. I would have saved $140 is I had 2 cores.

6-8-06
Tore down Front Passenger side. Things went very smoothly. Took me 1-1/2 hour to have everything taken off. Did not have to do anything different than what's stated above.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removed all steering except pitman arm(no need to remove). You will need a pitman arm type puller.


Can be found here

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?category...mfrpartnumber=648460

I was able to remove both sets of tie rods by beating them numinous times with a mall=peen hammer.


As for the Center link. No matter what I beat the thing with I could now get it out. I trid the Idler arm first. No worrkie. The I tried the pitman arm. Didn't get a darn thing.

I finally had to pull out my torch. Burned off the rubber boot and grease. That was fun. once I got her heated up pretty good(Not red), the puller did the rest of the work.

Things I did a few Days ago.

6-6-08.
Hello Guys,

I just got done tearing down and rebuilding my R200A axle. Sorry no pictures. I walk to work every morning and walk to the auto-hobby shop once I get off work.

I was a little intimated about what to do. I have the 95 FSM. It shows all Specialty made tools for Nissan in the adjustment section.

Once I popped off the front cover there were no more cloud in my head. I knew what to do and how to do it.

I'll say the biggest pain in the assn was installing the carrier into the gearbox. The R200A uses shims on each since. You have to hold the shims while holding the outer race of the carrier bearing at the same time. Everything has to be even in order for it to slide in. Even when everything is even it is going to give you hell.

Istarted Sunday 6-4-06( still have to write what I did that day). That's when I dropped the R200A. In order to remove the axle I had to drop the torsions.


About torsion- DO NOT FOLLOW CHILTON OR HAYNES. Both manuals are wrong. The FSM has the only correct info. The only paper manuals I have are the Chiltons and Haynes My FSM is on my computer in PDF format.

I tried to follow the chilton and haynes to no avail.

The below Photo is out of my 95FSM This how i finally was able to pull my torsions out. I did not read the FSM till later that night AFTER I had dropped my torsions.

Some added Info.

I used OTC7698 To remove my front wheel bearing lock Nut. The right tool for the right job makes life so much easier. It was $32XX shipped to my door. The shipping was steep like $9.

repacking my front bearings

Where do I get this tool??

I have not tried My Carquest Wheel bearing lock nit tool yet. I've been too pressed for time.

6-10-06

I was almost able to hang my front tires today. Just have to tighten up my lower ball joint nut(s).

First thing this morning I Installed the R200A front Axle. Took me 2hrs and 3 floor jacks. These were the professional grade shop jacks. Not the cheepes they use at work( tired those they did not work). It's very tricky of what to do. The ass end has to be dropped so you and slide the front over the cross member. The you have to push the axle forward so you can install the aft mounding bolts. I installed the aft mounting bolts first(the easiest way to go) then I installed the forward ones. The forward mounting bolts were hard but not that much of a pain in the assn.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Installed new CV axles,knuckle,hub, inner,outer wheel bearings and grease seals. New upper and lower ball joints, New Nissan Manuel locking hubs, sway-away torsions, super lift A-arms.

Everything went on easy without any problems.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Indexing torsion bars. The only way I was able to index mine was to pull the front torsion mounting bracket out and then turn the bar. There was no way I could get the rear adjuster out. I even took the adjuster bolt totally off.

Slightly harder to do but defiantly the most dependable way on any Nissan truck,pathy, Xterra with torsions.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Steering

Had no problems installing the new idler arm and center link. Make sure you Install cotter keys!?!?! I would hate for your tie rod to drop out on the interstate.

This is where things get tricky. Installing tire rods.

When installing tie rods MAKE sure you adjust them the exact same as the ones you took off. When removing tie rod assemblies MARK them. You don't want to lose control of your truck while your driving to an alignment shop(been there done that).

I took a digital caliper to measure the threads. You could count the threads also. Well, if you have the time to count thread go right ahead.

Now your NEW tie rods are set exactly to your old ones. Now you can drive down to the alignment shop safely. You always get an new alignment every time you replace a part on your steering.

NEW PICS




]

6-11-06. Bad day. After hanging my front tired I learned that I installed my lower ball joints wrong. The ball joint was facing up when it should be facing down.

I Found this out the hard way. Installed the tired and noticed my lower ball joint was binding against my rim .

It took me all day to tear down both spindles and build them back up again. Now I know why the shop gets 380 in labor each side to do lower ball joints.

Couldn't get anything els done except fix my F-up.

6-12-06

Mondays the shop is closed. Dead day.

6-13-06.

Everything up front is done. Moving to the rear end.

Removed rear tires. broke the half shaft bolts lost. Removed the drive shaft.

Drive shaft bolts did not want to break torque for anything. I first tried with a portable propane torch. Nothing propane was not hot enough to help. Next I pulled out the Mapp gas. Lot hotter torch, still no help.

Finally I had to pull the big boys out

I recommend 2 cans of mapp gas if your going to be removing a rear drive shaft.

6-14-06

Removed H233B carrier from axle. Not an easy job. 3rd kept binding against the stud. After 2 hors I was able to pull her out.

Installed new ring gear and Detroit locker. Ran out of time to do anything els.

6-15-06.

Installed new pinion, finished gear set-up. Installed 3rd into axle.

I used the old seal with lots of high temp RTV gasket maker. I recommend having a new gasket handy. I trashed mine up pretty good when removing my third. Hopefully the over use of RTV Will make things up.

Installed half shafts, axle and brake lines.

Your just a regular highly into detail guy! Nice work. I'm trying to remember your name for the life of me, but I can't seem to make it ring. Anyway, is that the lot that everyone does the work on thier vehicles on?
Lator....

quote:

Originally posted by Gator:
Your just a regular highly into detail guy! Nice work. I'm trying to remember your name for the life of me, but I can't seem to make it ring. Anyway, is that the lot that everyone does the work on thier vehicles on?
Lator....

Just keeping a detailed log for people who are looking into doing the same thing.

This is my daily driver. I've been getting things done as fast as I can. Haven't had the time to take a lot of pictures for how-to purposes.

Yes, it a full auto shop where you pay a fee by the hour or by the month to work on your vehicle. They have a full array of tools. You can literally do anything and everything providing you know how. The use of all tools are free.

They are having problems with theft. Tool control is becoming a big thing. Nothing I'm not used to.

They just got a brand new press, 3 chaises lifts and 11 drive on lifts.

BTW my first name is Brandon. Hopefully after all this I'll be able to do a few runs with you.

Your always welcome on our runs.
Lator.....