[size=24]INSTALLING THE AC
NISSAN XTERRA
2” BODY LIFT[/size]

Figure 1-This is the complete AC 2” Body lift. I have yet to know anyone who uses all of the parts. I used the parts that were in yellow squares. Focus only on the gold and black bolts. Look at the 2 shortest black bolts. Those bolts are used for the drive shaft safety loop (see figure 9). The sleeves in the small yellow square will go on these bolts. There are 10 remaining bolts-6 gold, and 4 black. Separate these bolts by color. Now there are 4 black bolts. Separate these by diameter. You should now have 6 gold bolts, 2 thin black bolts, and 2 fatter black bolts.

Although this is the complete kit, I still had to make a trip to the store during installation for 10 more of the large washers, which I highly recommend. I only used the medium size and larger size washers for this installation.

[size=18]Here is a list of tools that I would recommend for installation of the kit:[/size]

Tin Snips

Hammer (to loosen things up)

2 manual scissor jacks

Complete Metric tool set

Set of screwdrivers. (Stubby screwdrivers, long, wide, flathead, Phillips, star)

Nut driver

A few crescent wrenches

A few 3”, 6”, and 12” extensions

Speed wrench

And a torque wrench

Drill (for rear bumper re-mounting)

½” Drill bit

[size=18]Materials:[/size]

Railroad ties

Red Loctite

[size=18]TIME SAVING TIPS! :[/size]

Have the above tools and materials ready!

Spray the crap out of everything!!!!!!

Buy more large washers for the rear most body mount bolts!

Have the holes already drilled in your rear bumper,

Have some new brackets already manufactured for your front bumper.

[size=18]AND THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOL OF ALL![/size]

Figure 2-PB Blast. You can purchase this at any automotive store. There is a fair amount of prep work involved in this project. Luckily for you it is all rather simple. I will first show you all of the spots recommended to spray the PB Blast. I used mine for weeks and for the week preceding the installation, I sprayed the bolts religiously and liberally. Buy about 2 cans and [size=12][u]spare none! [/u][/size]


[size=18]PREP WORK!!!![/size]

First, remove the front passenger and driver doorsills

Tools used:
Phillips screwdriver
Wide tipped flathead screwdriver

Figure 3A- Front drivers side door sill

And then the rear passenger and driver door sills …


The Phillips is to loosen the screw and the wide tipped flathead is to get underneath and pry it up. Mine were a little stubborn.

Pull back the carpet in the front and you will notice a white circular plastic cap. Pry this cap up using a wide tipped flathead screwdriver. Discard all 4 caps.

Tools used:
Wide tipped flathead screwdriver
Hammer (optional)


The circled area is where the white circular cap was located. Break, remove and discard this cap. This picture is of the front passenger body mount that goes through the interior. There is another one on the driver side in the identical location. This accounts for 2 of the 4 body mounts that go through the interior. My caps were a little stubborn to pry out, and I ended up using a hammer on a couple of them.

Now LIGHTLY spray this bolt head.

And to account for the other 2 of the 4 body mounts that go through the interior, remove the rear seat cushions. Just to avoid confusion, theses are located right under the seat cushion as opposed to on the floor, like the front 2 mounts


Figure 5- Rear driver side interior body mounting bolt exposed

Break, remove and discard this cap. This picture accounts for the rear driver’s side. There is another cap on the opposite side. This accounts for all 4 interior body mounts. As you can tell, I did a fair amount of prying.

Now LIGHTLY spray this bolt head.

FOLLOWING THE COMPLETION OF THIS BODY LIFT, I RECOMMEND THAT YOU LEAVE THE SILLS OFF FOR ANOTHER 100 MILES SO THAT YOU MAY EASILY ACCESS THESE BOLT HEADS WHEN TORQUING THEM DOWN!

The Following Figures are pictures of the body mounts from front to back. Spray the threads on the bolts LIBERALLY AND RELIGIOUSLY!

I will include a picture of my Xterra and where these pictures relate to where they are so you have a general idea of where they are located.


Figure 6A-This body mount is located in front of the front tires underneath the fender wells. Spray the area highlighted as described


Figure 6B-This body mount is located behind the front tires. Spray the area highlighted as described. THIS IS THE OTHER SIDE OF FIGURE 4!

Figure 6C-This is the middle body mount. This mount has no nut as it mounts directly to the body. Spray the area highlighted as described.


Figure 6D-This rear mount is tucked far up under the body and close to the rear wheel well. It is located in front of the rear tire. Spray the area highlighted as described. THIS IS THE OTHER SIDE OF FIGURE 5!


Figure 6E-This is the rear most and last of the body mounts. It is located behind the rear wheel near the rear end of the frame. This mount has no nut as it mounts directly to the frame. Spray the area highlighted as described.


Figure 7-This is the aforementioned picture. The interior body mount bolt head locations are circled in blue. The exterior body mounts are circled in yellow.

The interior body mount bolt head locations are circled in blue (figure 4 and 5).

Number 4 is the INTERIOR LOCATION of the front interior body mount bolt head as seen in figure 4.

Number 5 is the INTERIOR LOCATION of the rear interior body mount bolt head as seen in figure 5.

The exterior body mounts are circled in yellow (figure 6A, 6B, 6C, 6D,and 6E)

Number 6A is the location of the forward most body mount

Number 6B is the location of the body mount behind the front tire

Number 6C is the location of the middle body mount

Number 6D is the location of the body mount in front of the rear tire

Number 6E is the location of the rear most body mount

Also needing to be sprayed is the steering shaft. Prop open the hood and spray the areas highlighted as described.

Figure 8A-This picture is a picture of the bolt that needs to be sprayed. The bolts that are marked with a red “X” are not to be touched. You will bee loosening (Not removing!) the highlighted bolt when you do you lift. This is the top of the steering shaft closest to the firewall. There is also a bolt at the bottom of the steering shaft as you follow it towards the front of the vehicle. This picture is below.


Figure 8B-This is the bolt at the bottom of the steering shaft as you follow it towards the front of the vehicle. This picture is taken from the driver’s side wheel well to give you a better idea of it’s location. It is also most easily accessed from this location.

Also needing to be sprayed is the drive shaft safety loop. Slide under your X and spray the areas highlighted as described

Figure 9-this is located on your undercarriage centered in front of your rear axle. There are two bolts that need to be sprayed. One on either side of the loop.

Also needing to be sprayed are the nuts on the rear bumper brackets.

Figure 10A-This is what one side of the rear bumper brackets look like. You must spray the nuts on the other side of these mounts.


Figure 10B-These are the nuts that you must spray as described. They are on the other side of the mounting bracket shown on figure 10A and may be reached from underneath the bumper.

Trimming metal…
11-You MIGHT need to trim metal to engage 4LO. I did need to trim metal in order to engage 4LO. I used a pair of metal shears to do this. This is a picture taken of where Scratchkins chose to trim. I needed much more trimming than he did. When the body is raised 2 inches, the range of travel or the 4WD shifter is not compensated for. There has to be more room. Apparently this is different for every X. Someone with an 04" X like mine might not have trim. Every X is different on this matter.

Additionally, some people laugh but I am going to add the 2” extension to my shifter. When this is not added, to me, it is more difficult to shift because the leather gets all bunched up. Additionally, this will appear more stock, and it will be easier to clean.

I recommend doing this the day before the install because of the fact that you want to make sure you are fully engaged, and the console will be off the least amount of time.

Also included is spraying the front bumper mounting bolts. I personally did not worry about these bolts because I ordered a Shrockworks bumper with 2” body lift mounts built into it. I apologize before hand for not having these pictures. Here is a solution I have seen. The argument following this is:

TUNASODA-“That is just going to swing into the front end in an impact”
However, the argument back went as follows:

SKAGGS396-“That plastic crap really won’t hold up in an impact anyway. I'll hopefully be getting a Shrock in a few months. Actually, I hope someone does hit me so they get to pay for my Shrock. ”







So, obviously spray where the bumper mounts to the frame and to the body. When I took mine off, the piece of crap tore apart in 3 pieces! Luckily, www.Shrockworks.com sells bumpers that compensate for the 2” BL.

Here is that link: http://www.shrockworks.com/Nissan-Xterra-Winch-Bumper-B...Bumper-pr-16139.html

And they also sell rock sliders that compensate for the 2” BL.

Here is that link: http://www.shrockworks.com/Nissan-Xterra-Rock-Sliders-R...f-Bars-pr-16144.html

They also sell rear bumpers that compensate for the 2” BL.

Here is that link: http://www.shrockworks.com/Xterra-Rear-Bumper-&-Spare-T...Xterra-pr-16161.html

Now, hopefully you have liberally and religiously sprayed your bolts and nuts. You will kick yourself if you haven’t. Now comes mod day. If I had instructions like these I would feel confident in my installation, However, AC decided not to give you these detailed instructions and leave the guesswork up to you. I personally would have all of the tools that I recommended to you at hand at this time. I would also have a few mechanically inclined friends around as well. DO NOT FORGET EXTRA WASHERS! Give yourself a whole day to allow for mistakes.

Tying off the steering wheel...

Figure 12-I would start with this. Tie off the steering wheel to ensure that it does not move. This is very important. Make sure the wheels are pointing forward first

Loosening up the steering shaft

Figure 13A-You only need to loosen this bolt up. Many people complain about this bolt. It did not give me any grief. I sprayed it as I have described and it was easy for me.


Figure 13B-You only need to loosen this bolt up. This bolt was harder for me to get at than the top. It was very cramped and very stubborn.

While you have your hood open, go ahead and remove your power steering reservoir.
14-There is much controversy about whether to install brackets on this or not to compensate for the BL. I personally just lifted it out and lifted it back in. If I were going to do it all over again, I would have not even bothered with it at all. As I said before, you are not going to use all of the parts but only a select few parts. I found that there was enough hose to keep it in there. I have not had a problem and there seems to be very little tension on it.

While the hood is open, loosen up a hose clamp on your intake

Figure 15- I have a K & N intake so this step might not apply to you. When I was done with the lift, there was a bend in the hose and it had to be re-adjusted. It did not take too long.

Remove the lower part of your fan shroud
16-Your fan shroud should separate between an upper and a lower half. Remove the lower half.

Now that everything is loosened, go ahead and remove your front bumper
17-Front bumper removed

And you rear bumper

Figure 18-Rear bumper removed

Remove your drive shaft safety loop

Figure 19-Remove both bolts on either side of the drive shaft safety loop

Now here is a controversial subject….
How to lift the truck properly:

Daggerdoggie (Scott) wrote:

Are those cinder blocks? I hate to be your mom, but never jack anything up on cinder blocks, at least nothing heavier than a beer. Particularly on their side. Get a 6x6 and cut it into 2' lengths or something.

Jester wrote:

heheheee... the cinder blocks were just for the scissor jack near the front and the floor jack was on the rear... I was worried about breaking it, but it held with the weight being between two jacks... =)

Soccerbrace (Me, James) wrote:

By the way, I did the same ting with a cinder block and I was fine, I just lined up the middles and centered it on the block

Daggerdoggie (Scott) wrote:

Then you've never seen a cinder block crumble suddenly under weight. It happens all too frequently. Find another method. Ok, I've stated my warning and don't want to see anyone get hurt.

[u]This said, let’s go the safest route. Use a large railroad tie piece of wood instead. My biggest concern is for your safety and this should have been the route I went in the first place. After all I did have about 2 or 3 friends helping me at any one time and I also endangered their lives. Not cool.[/u]


[size=24]Be safe!!! [/size]

Have your bolts, washers, Loctite, and pucks ready!!!!


Focus only on the gold and black bolts. Look at the 2 shortest black bolts. Those bolts are used for the drive shaft safety loop (see figure 9). The sleeves referenced in figure 9’s caption are shown in the small highlighted box. Set these bolts and sleeves aside.

There are 10 remaining bolts-6 gold, and 4 black. Separate these bolts by color. Now there are 4 black bolts. Separate these by diameter. You should now have 6 gold bolts, 2 thin black bolts, and 2 fatter black bolts. Have your pucks and bolts ready!

The two fattest black bolts are for the rear mounts (Figure 6E) See figure 7 if confused.

The shorter black bolts are for the upward pointing middles (Figure 6C) See figure 7 if confused.

The gold bolts mount to the forward most mounts (Figure 6A), the second furthest forward (Figure 4, and 6B) and 2 furthest back (Figure 5, and 6D). See figure 7 if confused.

Remember the order of the location of the puck and the rubber mount for each mount. Refer to the figures (6A-6E) if you forget

Lifting the X…
20-As I mentioned before, you should be using railroad ties, but, for lack of picture, here is the method I used. I used 2 scissor jacks on top of 2 cinder blocks. I placed them evenly apart and I raised them both simultaneously.It is a good idea to have a notched out 2x4 between the jack and the pinch seam. Uneven jacking will cause some damage.

First pick a side; I started with the passenger side.

REMOVE ALL BODY MOUNT BOLTS ON ONE SIDE!!!!

LOOSEN UP ALL BODY MOUNTS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE!!!!

The reason for this is you do not want to stress the existing bolts. This will make them more stubborn than they are already are. In my case I removed the passenger side bolts, loosened the driver’s side bolts, and lifted the passenger side

Later on in the lifting process, I removed the stock step rails because they got in the way for me. Some people prefer to keep them on as they are easy to grab and slide under the X and they make it easier to get out.

As your X is being raised, a gap is now being created. My recommendation is to slide a puck in at each opportunity. Right after you slide a puck in, coat with Loctite and start each respective bolt and tighten by hand until you cannot tighten anymore. Do not tighten with a wrench until all of the bolts have been started!!!

Once all pucks and bolts are in per side and the bolts are hand-tightened as much as they can be, put a few turns on there with a wrench to make it snug, but not too snug.

OK, so one side of your X has it’s pucks in. Good job!

Now remove all of the already loosened bolts on the other side and have your pucks and bolts ready.

Raise this side in the same fashion as the other side.

As your X is being raised, a gap is now being created. My recommendation is to slide a puck in at each opportunity. Right after you slide a puck in, coat with Loctite and start each respective bolt and tighten by hand until you cannot tighten anymore. Do not tighten with a wrench until all of the bolts have been started!!!

Once all pucks and bolts are in per side and the bolts are hand-tightened as much as they can be, put a few turns on there with a wrench to make it snug, but not too snug.

Lower your X and remove jacks so it is under it’s own weight.

Now you can snug them down.

DO NOT TORQUE ALL OF ONE SIDE DOWN AT ONCE!!!!!

Figure 21- Using this pattern, torque bolts. (P=Passenger, D=Driver)

1-P1,
2- D3,
3- P4,
4- D1,
5- P3,
6- D5,
7-P2,
8-D4,
9-P5,
10-D2

P2,D2,P5, D5 will all torque to 14-18 ft.lbs.

P3,D3,D4,P4 will all torque to 22-31 ft.lbs.

P1,D1 will both torque to 23-32 ft.lbs.

The finishing touches:

Throw some Loctite on the drive shaft safety loop bolts and snug them down with a wrench. Don’t forget to use the included sleeves.

To raise your stock rear bumper to the new height, drill new holes ON THE BUMPER 2” directly below the existing holes.

To raise your stock front bumper to the new height, manufacture some brackets as described in the picture above.

If it has been removed, mount steering reservoir location using brackets (or original location without brackets in my case).

Adjust the hose on your intake if necessary.

Tighten the bolts on your steering shaft.

Remove rope fastening your steering wheel.

Exercise the gears through 4LO to ensure full engagement. If it is not fully engaged, the ATP light will come on and you might hear a huge screech. Don’t keep it screeching!

FOLLOWING THE COMPLETION OF THIS BODY LIFT, I RECOMMEND THAT YOU LEAVE THE SILLS OFF FOR ANOTHER 100 MILES SO THAT YOU MAY EASILY ACCESS THESE BOLT HEADS WHEN TORQUING THEM DOWN![size=12][/size]

Congratulations, you have successfully lifted your X! Have a wonderful day![size=12][/size]