If you were at the 4 peaks camp out last weekend then you got a good look at my Yellow X, playfully named Sponge Bob...

In this post I will outline what is wrong with it, the order I think it should be fixed and upgrade in, and about how much it will cost..

Your input is greatly appreciated..

What it is -
Y2K Xterra, Auto, V6, SAS w/D44 '84 jeep Front leaf under, Nissan Stock Rear Leaf over

What Wrong with it -
1. Front Main Seal Leak
2. Unknown Gearing Front and Rear
3. Unknown Diff Front and Rear
4. Leaking out the front axle shafts
5. Exhaust leak, damage do to front leaf hanger
6. Front Hubs Trashed
7. Nice Moto metal Wheels, but they need a 1" spacer in the front

Order to start Fixing Stuff -

1. Front Main Seal leak -
Action - Replace Auto Tranny with Manual
Cost - $1000

2. Gearing, Axle leaks, Hubs, Lockers
Action - All done at the same time at shop on Washington ave
Cost $2500-$3000

3. Moto Wheels
Action - replace with Metal Wheels
Cost - $300-$400

4. Exhaust leak -
Action - Repair leak
Cost - $200 or less

Upgrades -
1. Rock Sliders - $200-$500
2. Skid Plates - $200-$500
3. Front Bumper - $1000-$1500
4. Rear Bumper Tire Carrier - $500-$1000

Let me know your thoughts!!

thanks!

Seems like with a stick shift, you'd be wanting lower T-case gears, unless you already have them.

-Spike

Yes, you'd have to have crawler gears to be happy with the manual. I had crawlers in my Tcase before I did the Auto-manual swap.

If the auto is still in good shape and drives fine, I'd install a large tranny cooler and stick with it until it dies, then go for the manual.

Sounds like a great project! Let me know if you have any questions about the Auto-Manual swap. I have Keith's writeup, which outlines the parts you'll need as well as the wiring modifications required.

Off the shelf sliders are available from Calmini and Shrockworks that bolt right into existing bolt holes.

Your rear axle is definitely a stock H233B. If it's the same vintage as your truck, it'll have the 4.636 gearing in it. You can regear the front to 4.56 and be close, but with 35s, I'd strongly consider either finding a 4.90 3rd member for it from a 2002-2004 Xterra, or swapping to 5.14 gears from AC. Either of those can be matched with 4.88 or 5.13 gears in the dana front.

I would definitely go with a selectable locker in front. In the rear, I'm betting it's LSD equipped. The way to lock that up on the cheap is adding a couple friction discs to the LSD, effectively turning it into a spool. However, if you ever plan on driving on icy roads, go with a selectable out back too.

The front springs have alot of arch and they seem short. That will contribute to a harsh ride. Calmini has the perches etc. for going SOA on a wag D44 if you were able to find some flatter sprigns, such as a stock front wag pack with 1-2 AAL's to stiffen it up. You're basically out the cost of the welding there, and I think your existing shackle placement might work even.

bumpers - gotta decide what you want....homemade or aftermarket. The aftermarket ones ain't cheap.

Matt,

Give me a call or PM sometime, and we'll fab up a set of sliders and bumpers. I have a bender with a 1.75" dia. die, so we can bend up some bumpers and sliders. I have torn into my D44 enough to replace seals, hubs, etc... I can damn near do it w/ my eyes closed,

Also, I have a friend who can set up gears, and he only charges $150 per diff... Granted the H233B might be a bit more difficult to set up, as I've never done one.

As far as modding the rear LSD, it works really good, but chews up tires if being a DD(as me how I know)...

Just throwing that out there. Lemmeno.

x1001 on TC gears as the 1st mod you'll want to get done.

x 1001 on crawler gears 1st..

Don't buy sliders man. There's only eleventy billion people that you know that can make sliders.

I would think that you would want to solve the issue of what gears are in your diff's first. Can't really use 4WD if they are different gearing...

You list #1 as a 'front main seal leak' when it's actually a transmission front seal leak, just for clarification. ('Front main seal' usually refers to the engine front crank seal.) I'd try using the high-mileage tranny fluid; if that doesn't stop the leak try some seal conditioner, then think about dropping the tranny to replace the seal, which will probably cost very little money. Even having a shop do it probably wouldn't be too bad. That saves you a lot of hassle not only with the tranny swap (it's not just a tranny swap, it's electrical, engine management, and clutch pedal and related stuff) but also the need for lower T-case gearing. The auto is essentially a doubler, so going to a manual is gonna be a lot different than what you're used to with your old Pathy.

I'd get the diffs matched up as first priority, fixing the front axle leaks, hubs, wheel spacers (or new wheels) and whatnot in the process. Then I'd get your front suspension worked out, and eliminate the exhaust leak. Then you can wheel it and see if you really want a stick shift and t-case gears. I'd bet if you go with the 5.14 gears and stay with the auto you won't need t-case gears.

-Spike

FWIW, The 233 is and EASY diff to work on compaired to some. The most difficult part is prolly getting the bearings on/off.

Thanks for all the advice....

I think I'll start with the High Mileage Tranny Fluid (Okay that’s tranny as in Transmission, not Trans-sexual) and getting that exhaust.

And the rest I'm contemplating and will post again soon..

You've got a good list going on.

Front axle, Are you able to do any of the work yourself? Dana 44's are not hard at all to tear down and put back together. You will need some specialty tools like a ball joint service set( which can be rented at a parts store). Are you looking into upgrading the shafts right now? if so I would defiantly throw in some longfields or CTM's.

As for sliders, I would go with a weld on application vs bolt on. Strength in mind here. I usually use my sliders to lift the truck when no on the trail.

Gears and lockers. I've got 5.38 front and rear with LSD's in the carrier. Even with my supper low gears in the axles I need a crawler box. I would keep the automatic until you get a crawler box.

P.S- If your interested I've got a h233b collecting dust with a Detroit locker. The axle was relatively easy to re-gear. Only down side was when I did the gears no one had a install kit. I had to put together my own kit.

quote:

7. Nice Moto metal Wheels, but they need a 1" spacer in the front

What, you didn't like the homemade spacers with the almost round hole they cut out with the welding torch for the axle to go thru?

Let me know if you need help with anything. I can even haul over the compressor and air tools to help. The neighbors will love the sound!

Regards,

-matt