O.k., I'm in the wiring stage of setting up and relocating dual batteries. I have Painless Wiring Dual kit, but I want to set it up a bit different. The kit wants to make the #2 battery a reserve just for jump starting. I want to make it the winch,air compressor lights and jump starting battery. I also want(am) running disconnects for jumper cables front and rear. With the solonoid, I can use position 1 for normal operation from battery #1. Position 2 connects the two batteries together for jump starting and dual charging. Should I run the winch cable and jumper cable directly off the #2 battery or off battery #1? My reasoning (or lack of) is that battery #2 will be connected during its use and only normal (factory) stuff will be connected to battery #1.

My 2nd question has to do with grounding. On the disconnects do I run a ground cable to the frame and back to battery #2 or will just to the frame be enough? When I purchase a winch will I need to run a ground back to the battery or just the frame or engine block?

Hopefully someone will be able to decipher my questions or at least point me in the right direction. The things I do so I can go to the mall!!!
Lator.......

I think you answered your own question in regards to which batter to connect the winch (#2). Keep in mind that it will be draining unless it is connected to the altenator and the engine is running. Also, you take a chance of blowing the altenator diodes if you throw your switch either way with the engine running or use jumpers to #2 with it connected.

Using the frame for ground shouldn't be a problem - think of it as a really large gauge wire - but it needs to be clean metal (seal it after connecting). And rubber mounts do not conduct.

Lotta hardcore car audio folks do dual batteries.... however, if it's just a wiring job you're gonna do, either the batteries are supplying power to operate something, or acting as a load to the alternator, it can't do both. When you vehicle is running, the battery isn't powering anything, the alternator is doing it all, AND recharging the battery at the same time. You can always swap your alternator, but that means more weight on your engine if there's a good amount of stuff pulling them amps.

I would just run the grounds all the way back to the battery, personally, as I like to avoid possible gremlins- one being possiblilty if grounds coming loose from frame/increased resistance at same connections.

I don't see anything wrong w/ accessories using the frame as ground- you could still run batt ground to frame, but batt grounds should be directly connected to your painless wiring- however the schematic dictates.

ANother redundancy that I think is a great idea( noT mine) is to fuse the batt GROUNDS appropriate to the largest load the batts will see. This is not to take the place of normal fuses on all accessories, but in addition.

I'm assuming you'll be using at least 2 gauge or bigger " 0" wire to run power to the winch.

What's that pull 400 amps?

Gator,

I don't have much insight about the Dual Battery Setup. But I do know that you need to hook the Winch Directly to the Battery +/-. Frame Grounding is just asking for problems, and I beleive ALL winch manufacturers recommend directly grounding to the Battery.

Good Luck..

Cliff

Thank you Cliffy!! Where have you been hiding my friend?

O.k. now for another question. I am running 2 gauge wire from the battery to the starter. I have a 4 gauge wire running from the battery to the factory distribution block. Do I run wire from the alternater to the battery or to the distribution block like the factory set up, and what gauge should I use?

Lator.....

I spoke to an engineer over at Hellroaring, who makes battery isolators and combiners. I came up with several iterations of running dual batteries and a winch, as well as relocation of the two batteries. The engineer over at Hellroaring liked my design, so I think it'll work for you.



And also, when the engine is running, the alternator powers your auxiliary stuff as well as recharge the battery. The battery acts as a big buffer too, meaning that if you run a heavy load that the alternator can't power, the battery comes in and helps power that load.

Stan

I never understood wiring diagrams...it's just a bunch of lines to me.

top...cuz i'm trying to plan this out as well...

quote:

Originally posted by Thanatoz:
I never understood wiring diagrams...it's just a bunch of lines to me.

YOu have to look at what is on each end of the line. You don't have to understand the connections- as long as the diagram is correctly drawn.

Think of it like string art. You're just connecting a string between two points( or a wire)

Coloring the lines helps, too. NO SCRIbbling

Ef9, what does the in-cab switch do on the Hellroaring isolator? I notice you have two positions set up.
Is there a "sense" wire on that unit?
I also noticed that A and C are connected on the isolator. Does bridging the diodes reduce the voltage drop?

I think Hellroaring advertises NO voltage drop, due to their solid state design, or something...

I'm talking with my Industrial Electricity prof. next week...so hopefully I can start ordering some parts for this thing. I should get quite a bit better weight distribution and a little lower CG now too. I'm running dual batteries behind the cab basically as low as I can get them in between the frame rails to get the CG down as much as possible.