help! Can anyone tell me if a defective crank angle sensor would cause the coil to not fire? pulled trouble codes out of eccs and read 11 and 13 , 11 is cylinder head temp sensor disconnected it, which according to manual i've got should let vehicle start if this was the problem. haven't gotten back out there to work on it anymore, but module and coil are ' before 'the distributor , or does a signal loop back via the computer ? coil and ign module are both good , wiring, batt voltage etc all check out , but not getting fire from coil. Anyone know anything about testing ign switches ? manual states at end of diagnostic section to test it, but there is no further info on how to test it. lights starter radio etc all work 93 nissan 4x4 vg30 v-6 auto trans 275k miles

I havent an answer for you, but I do have a couple of questions: Does the starter work and the engine turn over (if yes that should rule out the ignition switch), and have you check the spark at the plug by turing the engine over with the plug out resting on a chassis/engine ground? (just trying to prove there is no spark [energy to the cap an rotor]).

Has the coil be submereged? That could ground the system if it is still wet.

Ricochet


Negotiating "Mother" on Hite's Cove Trail.
Photo: H. Ballard

'96 HB-XE KC M/T 4wd.
Mods: Hella Headlights, KC Reverse Lights (So that's what's back there. Glad I didn't run over that!)

nope, starter cranks over fine,coil wire tests good and i checked by replacing with another (used)just to be sure . used ignition tester( visual spark type) and cranked it down so low a lawnmower ought to light her off and there is just no fire at coil at all . Will go out as soon as it stops raining and play with it some more, was just hoping for some advice to shortcut the diagnostics procedure. Manual shows cyl. head temp sensor by thermostat housing at front of block, I don't remember one there, am I wrong or is manual off base ? have both Haynes and Chilton's and they seem to contradict each other a lot. Any more advice greatly appreciated... HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!

Not surprised by the contrary advise from the two books. You really need to get at the 1993 Factory Service Manual for your vehicle (I'm a 96 HB I-4, so mine shouldnt be of any help to your case, plus I'm OBDII coded). I know there is someone on this board who has one and can scan the page and post it.

If code 11 is cyl temp sensor (and you reconnected it, yes?) what is code 13?

I really recommend getting the FSM. They're the real deal, no contrary info, plus have full electrical schematics. Check ebay for reduced prices (dealer charge ~ 125 bucks).

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2F&krd=1&from=R8&MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&ht=1&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&query=Nissan+Service+Manual

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34229&item=2450164079


Ricochet


Negotiating "Mother" on Hite's Cove Trail.
Photo: H. Ballard

'96 HB-XE KC M/T 4wd.
Mods: Hella Headlights, KC Reverse Lights (So that's what's back there. Glad I didn't run over that!)

code 11 is crank angle sensor, code 13 is cyl head temp sensor. One manual shows temp sensor @ front of block(?) by thermostat housing, another places it at coolant tube at front top of engine , which is the one I disconnected. I've replaced the timing belt and front seals a month or so ago and I don't recall one under the timing belt cover, any info?? used inspection mirrors/ lights and dont see any suggestions of one there(wires ,etc. ) would sure hate to tear it back down just to prove myself right, but may be the only option at this point. Electronics are great until they're not !!

Well, if all of this happened recently then I suspect that something was left disconnected. I'm not sure what type of crank angle sensor is used for your engine (some manufacturers use an optical sensor), and if Nissan did it is possible that the sensor or the crank is dirty enough to not allow a proper reading, or it is disconnected/misconnected.

I dug around my manual and the timing is based on a valve angle sensor built into the distributor. There is a crank angle sensor that measures a voltage difference caused by the teeth of the flywheel, but its function is to regulate things if there is a misfire.

So, I think that's all the help I can offer.

Best of luck,

Richard


Negotiating "Mother" on Hite's Cove Trail.
Photo: H. Ballard

'96 HB-XE KC M/T 4wd.
Mods: Hella Headlights, KC Reverse Lights (So that's what's back there. Glad I didn't run over that!)

FYI
cranka ngle sensor (hall effect type in dustributor ) does send signals back to ecu and can and has " killed" coil. Any one ever break a cam in a VG30 ?? goes to show ya- always check the basics-- I spent hours chasing down an non existent electronic poltergeist when the problem was that the distributor wasn't spinning over w/ the crank/belt/cams, and therefore no signal to ECU equals no signal to coil equals me feeling like a dumbass. Well at least I know what isn't broken !!

quote:

---

the problem was that the distributor wasn't spinning over w/ the crank/belt/cams

---

How did that happen?

Ricochet


Negotiating "Mother" on Hite's Cove Trail.
Photo: H. Ballard

'96 HB-XE KC M/T 4wd.
Mods: Hella Headlights, KC Reverse Lights (So that's what's back there. Glad I didn't run over that!)

Duh, I dunno. Had swapped timing belt not too long ago, and as much as I hate to admit it , I must've done something wrong, you got me. fourth or fifth belt i'd hung on this sucker(280K miles) and never had a problem before. When I finally traced it down it surprised the heck out of me. Been turning wrenches a long time and I have never heard of a Nissan snapping a cam, especially completely out of the blue like that. Oil pressure was good,changed regularly , wasn't running hot,(unless sensor is out of whack) sure seemed like a dead coil..... always checj the basics is my motto, which this time I totally disregarded and now I'm kicking myself in the ass over it. Will do more "testing " tomorrow to see if I can determinne cause (its's together and running good enough, but I've been apprehensive about road trips More later>> ccheck thread at engine forum

FYI-- anyone chasing this thread w/ any interest; I snapped the cam at the first journal no idea up to this point as to how or why.. Only thing I can come up with is repetitive heat cycling/metal fatigue over 280K miles-- anyway , Smoothed journals ( first two) back up w/ brake cylinder hone , re assembled everything , changed oil & filter and been running the dog mess out of it.. now have a slight lifter noise that was never there before but other than that everything checks out fine... changed oil & filter again after first road trip and will do so again shortly thereafter just to be sure, but installed mechanical oil pressure gauge just to be sure, replaced sending unit for gauge for same reason, and so far ( total of 425 miles ) everything seems to be cool. Was dreading going this route with it but I was hoping for the best , glad to report that results are just as good as going the high dollar route of new (remachined )head, gaskets, etc. Would assume anyone could have same results even if using used cam as opposed to new one. Just something to think about...