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Wheeler
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That's not a bad idea. I'll give them a call Monday. Thanks for all the help.
 
Posts: 441 | Location: Mid-America Swamp Land | Registered: July 25, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Overlander
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Dont waste your breath. Monday is Labor Day... Wink


"TSUNAMI"
1969 Nissan Patrol
Chevy K-10 Springs
FJ-40 Rear Axle
Original driveshaft, slightly modified
Custom shackles
79,000 Original Miles!
 
Posts: 769 | Location: Comanche, Oklahoma, USA | Registered: May 09, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
N4W Card Holder

Wheeler
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quote:
The direction's don't call for a water filter, but I'm thinking about putting one on between the tank and the locker. Anywhere else, and it wouldn't do any good.



Not true.

The water filter should go before the tank. You don’t want water in the tank, as it will cause it to rust/corrode from within. Since the compressor is separated from the holding tank you can do this, unlike a garage-based compressor where the two components are directly attached. There the water filter follows the tank and precedes the hose bib.

Just my advice for others contemplating the same.

Ricochet


Negotiating "Mother" on Hite's Cove Trail.
Photo: H. Ballard

'96 HB-XE KC M/T 4wd.
Mods: Hella Headlights, KC Reverse Lights (So that's what's back there. Glad I didn't run over that!)
 
Posts: 495 | Location: Hermos Point Break, CA. | Registered: December 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
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Although this is an old post, I would like to contribute, or chime in...

Well If you do want to make a perfect job (as we all do), we must go a step further, or othrwise the humidity filter is not enough...

My idea on this matter is that we could connect the A/C (COLD LINE) line, with the compressed air, before the humidity filter. In
this way the A/C line will cold the air from compressor and air humidity would 'drop', producing water.

Now how could this happen.

Well first you need a copper tube(or other material) of large diameter (F80mm). Tap it from both edges. Each tap should have holes in order to accept the A/C line. The A/C Line could be after the evaporator-so you will not have decrease efficiency of the A/C during summer. The A/C line should be solder on the taps.
Also make an inlet of air, in the F80mm tube and one out let of air. The Inlet should be soldered in the bottop of the F80mm and outlet on top. Also you must have a manual valve on bottom of the F80mm copper tube and often oppen it in order to empty the water captured from humidity. The water whould stay low and the air would be in upper layers. Therefore the Uotlet should be on top of the Copper Tube and connected then to the air - filter.

Lot's of Steroid in...

Anabolic NAVARA
 
Posts: 108 | Location: EUROPE(HELLAS-GREECE) | Registered: August 08, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
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I could send you a drawing, but I have not logged in to my photo provider and they have deleted me. Well I could send to someone who is interested and post it after...

Please send me an e-mail and allow me 5 days, as I will be out of my office...

Lot's of Steroid in...

Anabolic NAVARA
 
Posts: 108 | Location: EUROPE(HELLAS-GREECE) | Registered: August 08, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Ultimate N4Wheeler
Picture of hillbille
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Good idea to get rid of all the water in the line, but this isn't a rocketship. The time , labor involved and materials would hardly pay for the convenience, or possible risks/ downtime due to possible failure.

I cleaned the inside of my air tank and then coated it w/ Hammerite paint... or you could use a mixture of bee'swax/turpentine, or other rust inhibitors/preventives.... lot's easier.

.....................
'98 FAD FrontyKC
160,000 miles
Packin ARB'd 9"(5.00)& Tornado w/ Dual Remotes;-)
Mobi-ARC 200 is tits!( can I say that?)
 
Posts: 7273 | Location: enron by the sea,ca | Registered: July 03, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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