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New Member |
does anyone know where the voltage reg is located? is it behind the dash or in the engine compart?. 92 se v6
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Overlander |
I thought it was internal to the alt.
01 SC CC 4x4, 5 spd. Sand dune with matching snugtop. |
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Moderator N4W Card Holder ![]() Ultimate N4Wheeler ![]() |
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New Member |
Sorry i should have mentioned that im looking for the voltage reg for the insturment cluster. i think it some where in the dash. it operates your temp and gas gauges
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New Member |
Yep its on the top left side of the cluster
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Wheeler |
could a voltage regulator in the dash cause the alternator gauge to wobble back and forth at idle and straigten up while crusin'?
89 Nissan Pathfinder, 4" trailmaster Suspension lift, 1.5" rear lift coils, Rancho 9000x all round, 3" body lift, sway-away torsion bars, big stereo, rebuilt and transplanted hauss engine and trans. 33x12.50 bfg mud shoes on 15x10 polished aluminum wheels. makin room for 35s |
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NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
quote: Possibly, As idol the alt is just putting enough to keep the engine, lights, fan on and possibly a small amount left to charge the battery. As you rev the engine the alt puts out more power. Most alternators are made to Max out at 3Krpms. You needle should always be towards the right (Vertically.) An auto battery actually has 13.7 volts (Deep cycle is 15) so the needle should never be in the middle. Usually when the needle is not in the middle you have a loose belt or alt is loosing it's strength. -Brandon 95 4X4 KC 84 720 2X4 1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
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Wheeler |
my needle never goes down past 12 volts. it always wiggles around 14 volts, but once i get going it stops wiggling and stays around 14. but when i stop at a stop light it wiggles and the lights flicker with the rumble of the engine. i checked the belt and it does not seem loose. what is my problem?
89 Nissan Pathfinder, 4" trailmaster Suspension lift, 1.5" rear lift coils, Rancho 9000x all round, 3" body lift, sway-away torsion bars, big stereo, rebuilt and transplanted hauss engine and trans. 33x12.50 bfg mud shoes on 15x10 polished aluminum wheels. makin room for 35s |
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NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
quote: There is no problem. Your gauge is working like it should. At idol the alt power output drops your needle should drop with it. -Brandon 1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
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Wheeler |
but why do my lights flicker. they never did that before i added my sub amp. do i just need a stronger amp alt.?
89 Nissan Pathfinder, 4" trailmaster Suspension lift, 1.5" rear lift coils, Rancho 9000x all round, 3" body lift, sway-away torsion bars, big stereo, rebuilt and transplanted hauss engine and trans. 33x12.50 bfg mud shoes on 15x10 polished aluminum wheels. makin room for 35s |
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NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
If you've got a Heavy load on the alt the light will flicker.
When the stereo is cranked up you'll notice your head unit flickering along with all other light turned on. Easy fix. 1) Look into power caps for your stereo. Probably the most economical choice. 2) Do a Nissan Quest 115amp alt swap 2) get a deep-cycle battery I recommend these batteries http://www.odysseyfactory.com/default.htm http://www.optimabatteries.com/index.asp 1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
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Wheeler |
my lights flicker even when my stereo is off completely. its all my lights too. brake lights, interior lights, dashlights, not the headlights that i can notice, but most everything else.
also i hooked up two leads to my battery and ran it inside my truck. then i put a voltage meter on it and compared the battery's voltage to what the gauge read. the gauge was right. the batteries voltage is creeping around just as the gauge indicates. i think the problem is my alt. not the gauge. if this is a case shouldn't i get a stronger alt. and not a cap or battery/ 89 Nissan Pathfinder, 4" trailmaster Suspension lift, 1.5" rear lift coils, Rancho 9000x all round, 3" body lift, sway-away torsion bars, big stereo, rebuilt and transplanted hauss engine and trans. 33x12.50 bfg mud shoes on 15x10 polished aluminum wheels. makin room for 35s |
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N4W Card Holder![]() Wheeler |
You need to check the voltage at the alty rather than at the batt, that will give you a better picture as to the output.
Better yet, take it to a place that will load test it for you, then you'll know for sure one way or the other. If the alty checks out ok then you might have a floating ground issue. Ricochet Negotiating "Mother" on Hite's Cove Trail. Photo: H. Ballard '96 HB-XE KC M/T 4wd. Mods: Yellow Top, Hella Headlights, KC Reverse Lights (So that's what's back there, glad I didn't run over that!) ------------------------------ "In the jungle we dont drive the jaguar." |
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Pavement Pounder |
sounds like if any type of load is dimming then you need to have the alt looked at on a Load atautozone or such
..I would still get one of the Lifetime warreny ones...i had a pretty ok system as seen in the sig...mostly SQ up to about 1300w peak...14.4volts. and I got to change my alt out a few times when I toasted the bridge...I rebuilt it once with new dioded and bridge.. I was puching enough wattage to dim also and after a while even when I wasnt playing the stereo...It was a bad alt...and it was only a stock (65amp) I think...I have stock one again but I was running 2-1 farad caps...but i dont know much about electonics and dont need to get into a "physics" debate concernuing caps First dont get a cap...its not going to keep up...its physics...it just like an Echer Echer photo,,,your gonna use more than you store to the cap...SO get a new alt.. maybe a dual batt set up with an ISO and reg. then see if they dim hehehe...you should do ok.///a little thinner in the pocket...but the 115amp qeust alt sounds good |
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