Well I dont know how many of you read in the other thread about me hydrolocking my engine, but I finally got it started last nite. And to my horror there is a horrendous metal on metal noise from deep inside the engine. So it looks like I may have bent a rod (or two).

For those of you that didnt read the other thread, I played in the mud. I hydrolocked my engine. Moral of the story you ask? Dont play in the mud with a cone air filter.

So Im looking at two directions right now. I found a rebuilt short block for 750 including core. Link here.

And I also found a good rebuild kit for 471. Link here. With that kit I can overbore a little too to compensate for any damage. But I would need a new rod or two also. Here's whats included:
"Major Engine Kit: contains complete gasket set, set of pistons and rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, timing belt, balance shaft bearings (if applicable), and a set of expansion plugs (does not contain camshaft, timing kit or oil pump). Pistons & Rings: Std., .020, .040. Bearings: Std., 10, 20, 30." and the oil pump is also included.

Now I know with both Id like to have the heads done, and I have a shop that can do that. I can do most of the work here, just not sure how long I have before my parents patience runs out.

So I need your opinions. Rebuild and overbore what I have? Or get a shortblock and just get a gasket and timing set and go from there?

Ive been thinking about rebuilding a VG for a while. Ive done some reading about it, mostly on 300zx sites since those guys play with the motors alot more than most wheelers. The conclusion I came to is not to do it. Im better off with a low mileage vg33 out of wreck A dismantler near me has a '03 vg33 with under 3k miles for $1200. They seem to range from $800 to $1400. I would trust that motor much more than a rebuild, or a "low miles" japanese motor. Plus with machine work, gaskets, and all the nickle and dime stuff, that $500 engine kit could easily end up over $1200.

Ben

quote:

I found a rebuilt short block for 750 including core

I'd do that.

The VG33 idea is a good one....Low mileage engines in local yards aren't hard to come by. I paid $600 for the 4 banger in my truck - it had 21k miles on it.

Searched car-part.com for the vg30e and the ones they had listed were all 100k and up. And they wanted to much for them also. Ill go search for the 33 now.

After reading chevyman's write up on swapping to the vg33, i think that might be a better option for me at this point. I emailed an engine importer in cali to see what kinda prices they could get me on one.

Head up to Alma Imports just north of broadway and see what they got.

For the money it's best to go chevyman's way. If you had 2500 to throw around you could build on hell of a vg30.

Unless you are doing something "cool" to the engine, just get a decent mileage VG30/33 and slap it in. I've built about a dozen so far and it isn't worth it for stock parts. I've seen <100k engines go for 200-300 with some warranty. And to be honest, put a timing belt and plugs in a VG30 and start it. If it doesn't make noise, it is in good shape. I've seen very few that were truly "worn out". Almost 100% of failed engines are from to catastrophic failure due to abuse or lack of maintenence. (ie timing belt)

quote:

Originally posted by danielmid:
but I finally got it started last nite. And to my horror there is a horrendous metal on metal noise from deep inside the engine. So it looks like I may have bent a rod (or two).

From my original post. I did throw some plugs in it, and it started. Smoked like hell and made me cringe from the metal clunk noise from deep within the engine.

Pretty seriously thinking about doing the vg33e swap. Im not sure I like the whole machining the crank thing, but Ill see what happens. Im not sure if the crank I have is damaged or not. Ill see when it comes out.

The only downside I could see to using the vg30 crank would be that i wouldnt have a complete vg30, but its already damaged, so Im not seeing a downside.

By the time I bought internal parts and machine work (including crank grinding and rod reconditioning) I paid $1,000 and didn't even TOUCH the cylinder head. I wound up doing that later.
Any time you replace an engine, you replace a lot of nickle and dime stuff that adds up, also.

My advice is to choose the option that suits your long-term plans. For instance, if you plan to keep it for a long time, choose based on reliability, such as import or rebuilt. If you see yourself selling it in a year, go with a JY engine.
Also, consider what it may cost to repair only what is damaged in yours. Bearings, seals, a couple of rods, crank reground.....

To get the vehicle in sellable condition, would take lots of work. Once I had done the work, I wouldnt want to sell it.

I plan on keeping it for a long time. Im choosing based on not wanting to have to do this again in a couple years. And also wanting a little bit better running engine while Im at it.

daniel.. think about this.. see if you can pick up a VG33 supercharged engine. wouldnt be too much more expensive. If I had to replace my engine, that's what I'd be looking for.

But then Id need to upgrade to obd-2 and do all the wiring that goes with it. Im not sure I want to delve that deep at this point. Well, I am positive I dont want to.

Still looking into motors. Have emails in to several engine places around the country and some in the valley. Shipping is a nightmare to get it here and I have to have it shipped to a truck terminal for most of them.

Seems to be right around 700-800 for a vg30, and 1000-1200 for a vg33. Im trying to find a balance between low mileage and price. While at the same time trying to balance out the fact that I have to tear apart the vg33e engine when I get it to install the vg30e crank.

Shortblock is looking like a easier option, but Im not sure I want to do all this work for stock. I like the vg33 swap, it seems straightforward enough, its just the lack of funds that make it impossible yet.

Here is a place to buy used engines
http://www.ninfiniti.com/engines.asp