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Pavement Pounder
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I am trying to replace the torsion bars on my 95 pathy. The anchor arms are lossened back and they are out of the front anchors. Know how do i pull them out of the anchor arms. I have a used on that i am trying to get out as well. Can I just pound on them?
 
Posts: 48 | Registered: September 15, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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One thing I learned about torsion bars (thanks John), is in order to remove them from the LCA, it is MUCH easier to have the LCAs parallel w/ the ground. They will wiggle out (and seat) much easier that way.

For the adjuster arms, you will prolly need a bunch of penetrating oil, like PB blaster. These can be a PITA to remove, and you might lose some skin in the process. Don't bang on the anchor tho, you can bend it.

Hope that helps.


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Posts: 8146 | Location: Where illegals run amok, Az | Registered: December 12, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Make sure you have both front tires off the ground and on jack stands or on a lift.

1) remove the bolt from the t-bar adjuster
2) remove the c-clip from the adjuster
3) use a flat head punch and tap around the anchor. penetrating oil will help.

I have had to remove the torsion bars with the anchors attached before. This required removing the front mounts.


1995 KC XE-V6 4x4.
 
Posts: 4652 | Location: U.S.A,Tallahassee/Jacksonville, Florida | Registered: June 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Pavement Pounder
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I will try some oil. They are out of the front mount i just cannnot get tthe bars out and do not want to cause any damage.
 
Posts: 48 | Registered: September 15, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If oil doesn't work try some heat. A portable torch will do the job. get map gas if you can.


1995 KC XE-V6 4x4.
 
Posts: 4652 | Location: U.S.A,Tallahassee/Jacksonville, Florida | Registered: June 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Mud
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quote:
Originally posted by LordBiotree:
...
I have had to remove the torsion bars with the anchors attached before. This required removing the front mounts.


I'm trying to picture that. Did they come out of the cross member going forwards or backwards? I don't think the ones on my X would come out going backwards with the adjusters still on. Maybe with the front mounts removed from the LCA they'd slide forward. Is that how that worked?
 
Posts: 2190 | Location: Elbert & Gilliot, Dogbert Arizona | Registered: December 27, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by LordBiotree:
If oil doesn't work try some heat. A portable torch will do the job. get map gas if you can.


Nooo! Don't use heat! I ruined my anchors by heating them. The propane torch was not enough, so I broke out the oxy/acetylene torch.
Sure, they came off, but the splines stripped out on the first bump. Replacements were pretty cheap through ABC Nissan, but I was out of commission for a few days.




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Posts: 3993 | Location: Laurel, Mississippi | Registered: December 14, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Reserector:
The propane torch was not enough, so I broke out the oxy/acetylene torch.

oxy/acetylene torch is quite exessive. propane or map gass is ok to free up stuck parts but the inense head of oxy/acetylene is enough to break down the TEMPER condidtion of the metal. taking the metal up to 600 degrees and keeping it near that temp for about 5-10 min and letting it cool repeatedly should be enough thermal action to free most stuck parts.

edit: would you mind re-sizing your broken anchor photo


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mostly stock(for now)
'89 Pathfinder XE over 212k and running good!
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Posts: 285 | Location: Western Washington | Registered: November 21, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Pavement Pounder
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I will try some heat on the t bar that is ruined. I am assuming that they pull out of the anchor/adjuster end. It Too bad that you cannot get the assmbly out (the bar with the anchor attached) through the back end of the frame and then pull out the torsion bar.
 
Posts: 48 | Registered: September 15, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Pavement Pounder
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I am dealing with 14 years of stuck togatherness. Found front and left at a wreckers and he just cut the frame at the back and then unbolted the front mount.Dealer cost was about 400$ for parts and i paid 150 for both sides.
 
Posts: 48 | Registered: September 15, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Unbolt the crossmember and take down the member and both bars as a unit. Then you can work standing up.....with daylight.

Four through bolts. Nothing to it.



It's a fine line between clever and stupid.
http://www.mississippi-mud.com/
 
Posts: 3993 | Location: Laurel, Mississippi | Registered: December 14, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
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quote:
I am dealing with 14 years of stuck togatherness. Found front and left at a wreckers and he just cut the frame at the back and then unbolted the front mount.Dealer cost was about 400$ for parts and i paid 150 for both sides.


I thought you had replacement t-bars and just needed to reuse the anchors. Hence the title of the thread. $150 is a lot for the t-bars and anchors. I would have sold you some performance t-bars and anchors for that much.


1995 KC XE-V6 4x4.
 
Posts: 4652 | Location: U.S.A,Tallahassee/Jacksonville, Florida | Registered: June 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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