Hey ya'll,

Just got a Timing Belt,, Tensioner, Cam seals, front crank seal & new Bosch Water pump done. I changed out the Oil with Royal Purple & a Mobil 1 Filter(I don't know if I'll ever buy Royal Purple oil again but the Mobil 1 Filters are worth every red cent).

I'm gonna Flush the Radiator Tomorrow.

I can't remember the last freaking time I changed my Transfer Case & Diffs.

The T-Case in Mecron II...right? So I'll just run Mobil 1 ATF(awesome stuff IME). I don't like the Idea of conventional Mecron III fluid running in our hard working T-case.

What's the Diff specs......I Have Mobil 1 75/90 & enough BG Lsd Additive(friction modifier) to treat the LSD until I put in an Air locker.

I guess Nissan likes 75/140 in the Titans, Should I be golden with 75/90 in my rear LSD and front Diff??

What are you running?? Thanks In Advance

I run 80/90 all arround; both diffs, TX case and manual trans. I don't use any additives but I don't think it would hurt if I did. For the radiator I use Prestone antifreeze and I change it 2x a year; I go 30/70 ish (coolant/water) in the summer and 75/25 ish in the winter for faster warm ups.

you can put gear lube in the t-case as well as auto tranny fluid. There's nothing wrong with synthetic fluid but not really needed in the gear cases.

I use GL-4 80-90 in all gear cases. Engine I use Valvoline max life 10-40 with an economy filter. I change the fluid 2500-3000 miles.

I use whatevers cheapest at advanced auto parts.

Redline MT-90 in the manual trans changed every 30K miles. Before that( onthe same schedule) I used the " the first sythetic" up to about 200 K miles. I changed because (cold- which is rare in S Cali) shifting was stiff and I heard it was slicker than snot- it is.

Rear 9" gets 75-90( " the first synthetic"), and motor gets 10-30( same vendor) changed at
20-30 K miles. Filters are changed onsame schedule.

lol, you guys really use some expensive shit, my engine has prolly 30w phillips 66 oil in it that was in an old box prolly from the 70's. my diffs are running the cheapest gear oil at autozone, and my trans has motor oil in it, cant remember what kind and my t-case has case hytran in it.

quote:

and my trans has motor oil in it

you might want to change that out. Not recommended by Nissan. Honda on the other hand runs motor oil in the tranny.

quote:

Originally posted by Oliver #2:
lol, you guys really use some expensive shit,.

How expensive is it when running a
25,000 mile change interval?

Hey ya'll,

Our VG engines don't need 10/30 but it's fine.

LordBio - Good to read you brother. Damn dude, your running motorcycle oil..hehe. I wouldn't be suprised if you got a noticable increase in MPG by switching to a 5/30 as per Nissans Reco. No disrespect of course but that's heavy as hell compared to the stock reco. The MaxLife is good stuff from what I hear. It's got a good quality additive/detergent pack added to their standard Oil. Regular Valvoline is fantastic IME for a cheap Dino Oil. I'll send you four quarts of regular Valvoline 5/30 if you wanna try it out brother. Seriously, PM me. Unless your doing serious towing, you can easily go 4-5k miles between changes with non synthetic oil.

As for Oil filters, Cheap filters are hardly a good deal. Even the Frams nowdays are TOTAL GARBAGE that I woudln't run on my kids go kart. One of the best deals on the planet @ the lower price ratios is the regular Purolator(that can be had @ Pepboys). It doesn't matter if you run the best Oil money can buy if your running a cheap ass filter that can't keep up with the Oil.

Anyway,

I've got an Auto. The combination of a Full Synthetic ATF combined with an Aux Cooler will substantially increase the life of a/my Auto tranny. I have a feeling the Fluid I'm gonna drain out of my TX-10 case is gonna be f'in nasty.

I checked Mobil 1's website, they say they have the LSD Friction Modifier in their Gear Oil(you think they'd put that on the Bottle...lol).

I just want my truck to run like a brick shit house(bad Analogie maybe..?lol) for another 60K.

Thanks for reading my long winded ass!

5/30 and 10/30 are same viscosity when hot - which is 30 w-( at least I think that's what the ratings mean).. The first # is the cold vis rating.

Am I wrong?

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:

quote:

and my trans has motor oil in it

you might want to change that out. Not recommended by Nissan. Honda on the other hand runs motor oil in the tranny.

ehh, i dont care what nissan reccomends, its what i had at the time, i sunk the pathy and the trans filled up with salt water drained maybe like 3/4 of it our cause it was at an angle and added like 3-4 quarts through the shifter.... been that way for 30k miles.

quote:

Originally posted by hillbille:
5/30 and 10/30 are same viscosity when hot - which is 30 w-( at least I think that's what the ratings mean).. The first # is the cold vis rating.

Am I wrong?

I was going to dissagree with you but I looked it up and you are correct.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

Hey ya'll,

The 10/30 doesn't matter as I said. 10/40 on the other hand is pretty damn heavy for an engine spec'd for 5/30. I wouldn't run it unless one lived in an EXTREMELY hot Climate.

To each their own. Our VG engines can handle the most brutal driving with the reco'd 5/30 or even the 0/30 like the truly full synthetic *German Castrol* that can be had @ Autozone.

Lots of people that run big stuff like LS Vette Engines seem to complain that Mobil 1 for example thins out to quickly. I've also read many of the same complaints form reputable persons about Royal Purple. We'll c.