I purchased this from the shadiest, most scum of a car dealership I have ever seen in my life. The funny thing is I knew they were scum and were trying to scam me before I bought the car. The price was right, major mechanicals good and body straight enough so I bought it.



I knew before I purchased it the A/C wasn't working. It was coming on and staying on, but no cold air. The 'salesman' said it probably just needed to be charged. I knew the a/c problems were more involved than that.

I got the car home and gave it a can of R134 since it was already converted. The high side pressure looked okay right at 200, but the low side was showing me a vacuum?!?!?! It was there that I knew the expansion valve had to be clogged so I pulled out the evaporator assembly which was very easy (no sarcasm, 3 bolts 2 screws and one plug, 3g Accords are EASY to work on).




I have no way to test the expansion valve, but there is nothing else in the A/C system that would cause a vacuum on the low side is there?????
Since I pulled the expansion valve and the evaporator I have also pulled the drier for replacement and every line except for two that can be flushed in vehicle. The compressor feels good and has good suction.
Any advice about evacuating the A/C system after reassembly? Will most good a/c flushes be boiled off properly by the evacuation process?

Can I pressure test the A/C system with CLEAN shop air? or even CO2? I know nitrogen is preffered but does it matter when I am going to evacuate the system anyways unless damage to the new drier may occur.

Humm!Interesting, I just learned something new today.

It was the expansion valve alright. It looks like this A/C system had a slight case of the 'black death' which eventually clogged up the expansion valve. I am very glad I pulled most lines and the condensor to flush, but am a little worried that I did not drain and refill the compressor. Time will tell if there are leaks in the system, but so far the system has passed all tests.

Those are good cars and yes the ac system is relatively easy to work on. Anyways, does this accord have the 1.5L 4 banger? I think the accords got the 2.0.

The 3g accord got the 2.0L 12valve SOHC A20 series also found in the 2g prelude. It is no power house, but to my knowledge is HOnda's last cast iron block. I have had them go to 330,000 before.

SOunds like my next car.

You want an 88 or 89 LXI or SEI. The 88 and 89 got 122 HP vs 107 and has a MUCH simplified idle control system ( 1 valve vs 5). All 86-89 LXIs are Fuel injected STAY AWAY FROM NON LXIs, they are all carbuerated and have 63 vacuum lines to deal with. 4 door LXIs have a sunroof while the hatchback LXIs do not have the sunroof. STAY AWAY FROM THE AUTOMATICS the automatic Honda used in this year of car is very very problematic. A auto to manual conversion will cost half the price of an auto rebuild and is pretty easy.

So you need an 88-89 LXI 5spd, good luck! they are rare.

An LX Accord would be the carb'd version, vs the LXI
( injected)?

I had a 89 LXI in high school. Sunroof, fuel injected but it was an auto. Yes I did have problems with the auto. I after flushing the tranny 3 times problem went away. It got really good gas mileage and AC worked like a champ.

My dad ended up selling the car after I moved out. The guy took the car to cali and back. Was a good car for a high schooler.

Yes, an LX or DX has the carb. In high school I had an 87 LX auto. I loved the car but it was a dog. The auto went out and I threw a 5spd in it which helped with power considerably. Though it never caused me problems the carb was partially computer controled and had way too many vacuum lines.

Thannks, System, I started looking , and you're right, they are rare, but then any used car that gets excellent mileage in this era must be rare.