Looks sick man. Just needs one more sticker...N4W!!!

And how'd the signs turn out?

That is lookin hot, John. I like it alot.

How much longer till it is skinned That is really starting to look like a car. Man, I am soo jealous of your talents.

Keep up the kick ass work, man.

The fun part is going to be taking it all apart again to go get powder coated or painted after you finish all the welds and cleanup.

Wow! It's really coming together!

I'll probably be picking up the aluminum skin and steel for it this month, since I need to pick up a $1000 dollar order of steel for my work anyway. Still need to finalize a lot of details on the car before I can skin it though.

As for the order it'll get done, I'll be doing the floorboard first. Typically on these cars the floor is made from aluminum sheet, riveted to the space frame, but in the interest of safety, I'm going to use some 14 or 16 gauge steel and will be welding it to the chassis. There have been several instances over on the UK locost board of road debris coming up through Al floorboards, which I think wouldnt be too fun. Would rather sacrifice a few lb of weight for a solid floor that wont let rocks and debris through.

quote:

Originally posted by danielmid:
Looks sick man. Just needs one more sticker...N4W!!!

And how'd the signs turn out?

Havent had a chance to put the signs up... but I know where they'll be going. I'll get some pics when I get them up.

Thanks again!!! Such a cool item for my garage.

quote:

Originally posted by Sand Bag:
That is lookin hot, John. I like it alot.

How much longer till it is skinned That is really starting to look like a car. Man, I am soo jealous of your talents.

Keep up the kick ass work, man.

The fun part is going to be taking it all apart again to go get powder coated or painted after you finish all the welds and cleanup.

Thanks man! Yeah, taking it apart will be fun. Its a stage of the build that everyone has to do though. Once the chassis & all bracketry is finalized, it comes apart and gets painted. I'll be using engine enamel to paint the whole thing, so it should be pretty durable. I dont want to do powdercoating, since I wouldnt be able to make changes to the chassis easily with powdercoating in place. The engine enamel is soft enough that I can buzz it off where needed and repaint after welding.

quote:

Originally posted by datz510:
...but in the interest of safety, I'm going to use some 14 or 16 gauge steel and will be welding it to the chassis...

Should also add a little bit more structural integrity since you will be welding it to the frame. Or, at least I would think that

Absolutely.. since the pan of the car has very little diagonal bracing, it'll stiffen it up quite a bit.

28 pages and I can't remember if this is in here yet, I believe it was, but behold THE SEVEN!! Some cool videos to see also.

Pics from this weekend's progress..

This weekend, I decided to tackle mounting the rear hubs to the custom uprights. I also acquired a set of new front and rear rotors for the car, so I can start working on the braking system.



In order to drill the holes to mount the hubs, I decided to sacrifice one of the rear hubs I had "for the cause". I used the plasma cutter to take a notch out of the wheel mating surface to allow me to drill out the threaded holes with my drill press. Once all 4 holes were drilled out to the appropriate size, I just placed the hub on each of the uprights and used the hub as a drill template for each of the holes. Worked great!


Here is the final result:


Both of the uprights, side by side:


Once the hub was bolted up, the rotors went on for a test fit!


The upright I made is a bit thinner than the original, so the original bolts protrude a little from the front side of the hub. Should work fine though.


Now, here is one reason why the 240sx rear brakes will work well for a Locost build... The brake caliper and parking brake are one assembly. The parking brake bracketry looks like it'll work really well with the Locost chassis and wont interfere with anything.


Another view of the brake caliper. You can get an idea of the bracket that needs to be made to secure the caliper to the upright.

I feel its been too long since I mentioned that I both hate and worship you.

Yeah John... you suck.

Just scored this stainless steel turbo manifold on ebay.. seems to be a better one than most I've seen for the ka24de.. Its designed to take a standard SR20det t25 turbo.




Scored it for $100.

Whether I go turbo or not, this manifold will let me get the exhaust out the side without interfering with the brake and clutch master cylinders.

I found out where you got the idea for the suspension. Good going, copying it from a bicycle.

quote:

Originally posted by danielmid:
I found out where you got the idea for the suspension. Good going, copying it from a bicycle.