Finally got around to getting some more stuff for the camper conversion on the mog.

I picked up a Coleman Polar Cub 9000btu A/C unit with integral heater for the roof of the mog.



This'll be fitted to one of the rooftop hatches that are currently in place. Ill have to fabricate an adapter to go from the 19"x19" to a 14"x14" standard hole for the AC unit. Also have an automatic transfer switch showing up to handle switching duties between the generator and a 24v to 110v inverter.



The other upgrade is a 3500/5000w genset that I picked up specifically for the mog. This will provide power for the A/C unit as well as for any other things that get added to the truck. It has 220V output that should run a good sized welder if needed.



The generator is a normal standalone genset type so will be taken apart to fit into a 12" high x 16" deep x 24" wide space under the radio box on the mog. I'll have to weld up a new dedicated gas tank (thinking a 10-15 gallon tank for long run times) and fit a fuel pump, but it should work nicely. Also, a series of mufflers will be fitted to allow for extra quiet operation.

Now, the biggest question is how do I get a 100lb A/C unit up on top of the mog?! I think the chain hoist will work, but its going to be a challenge.

Might have to get a hand or two if anyone is bored in the next couple weeks.

Consider running the exhaust pipe straight up, just above roof level. The sound and smell will be directed up and away from camp. Not only that, but it will not kick up dust. I have seen detachable pipes like that on motorhomes.

Be sure to incorporate airflow into the compartment. Most RVs duck air directly to or from the engine's ducting, leaving the opposing flow to enter/exit through louvers. In your case, you would most likely run a duct to the inlet at the center of the flywheel cover. This creates a positive air exchange as long as teh inlet and outlet are on different surfaces, ie on on bottom and one on the side of the body.


As for levitating the unit to the roof, I suspect you will have more trouble finding enough ladders than you will finding friends to lift it.

Consider running the exhaust pipe straight up, just above roof level. The sound and smell will be directed up and away from camp. Not only that, but it will not kick up dust. I have seen detachable pipes like that on motorhomes.

Be sure to incorporate airflow into the compartment. Most RVs duct air directly to or from the engine's ducting, leaving the opposing flow to enter/exit through louvers. In your case, you would most likely run a duct to the inlet at the center of the flywheel cover. This creates a positive air exchange as long as the inlet and outlet are on different surfaces, ie on on bottom and one on the side of the body.


As for levitating the unit to the roof, I suspect you will have more trouble finding enough ladders than you will finding friends to lift it.

I have a generator 220 cord that goes to 4 110's you can have next time I see you. New never used.

Since my gen got ripped I have no use for it....

Let me know if there is a day you want to hoist that up there and I'll bring clothes to change into and help ya.

Thanks Marshall!

I have a big A frame and chain hoist that can be used to lift it. Getting the unit positioned over the cutout will be the hard part and will just require a few sets of eyes.

Um, why did you purchase a generator vs a 24v ac power inverter? Do you plan to run the gen all night while your sleeping?

He's turning it into an all terrain motorhome. I'm sure he plans on running the A/C all day/night and doesn't want to run the big engine all day.

John I will be excited to see how you mount that genset, isolate vibration and reduce engine noise. Those gensets seem to be very reasonable and I would think with proper rubber mounts and a muffler you could get the thing pretty darn quiet. What kind of fuel usage are you looking at with that genset? Is it electric start?

You have to take those AC units apart a little to install them. Its not a big deal to get one up there if you can just pass it up to someone who is already on the roof. Ive done it twice.

Let us know when you're installing the A/C. I'll come help.

Take it easy with that back of yours.

quote:

Originally posted by datz510:The other upgrade is a 3500/5000w genset .

Consider a viscoelastic polymer ("QUIETCOAT")coating inside and outside the box containing the genset. Better yet would be a double wall box- that would have (3) LAYERS of Quietcoat. They claim a 20 db reduction w/ one layer.
http://www.quietsolution.com/html/quietcoat.html

"Highest performing damping coating today. Period.
Fully ROHS Compliant
No VOC’s
Meets the highest industry flammability standards
Less expensive, easier to apply, more effective, thinner, and weighs less than older technologies
Anti-fungal and anti-rust capability
Vibration damping results in less noise and vibration and reduced metal and joint fatigue."

YOu could use it as undercoating, too

quote:

Originally posted by Black92se:
You have to take those AC units apart a little to install them. Its not a big deal to get one up there if you can just pass it up to someone who is already on the roof. Ive done it twice.

With my back being trashed, I really cant lift anything anymore. Kindof annoying when you want to get something done and cant do it. The unit is 100lb and the mog stands about 9ft tall, so I'll just lift it with the chain hoist to get it up on the roof and then move it around into position once its up there.

quote:

Originally posted by System-F:
John I will be excited to see how you mount that genset, isolate vibration and reduce engine noise. Those gensets seem to be very reasonable and I would think with proper rubber mounts and a muffler you could get the thing pretty darn quiet. What kind of fuel usage are you looking at with that genset? Is it electric start?

The generator is not currently an electric start, but I could install an electric start engine on it. That is the ultimate plan. I'd like to set up the thermostat so it will automatically start and stop the generator and in turn the A/C unit through some relay logic. While the generator is running, it would also charge the battery bank for the power inverter to run other electrics.

The fuel usage is around 1/3 gal per hour at full load. I'm going to build a 10+ gal tank for it, so it should be great for camping especially if I can get the electric start setup.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:
Um, why did you purchase a generator vs a 24v ac power inverter? Do you plan to run the gen all night while your sleeping?

Most power inverters will not run an A/C unit due to the inductive load when starting the motor. Some extremely high output inverters might do it, but not many. (ie: the really expensive ones).

I'm looking for a 24v to 110v inverter that is set up with an automatic transfer switch and charge controller to charge a small bank of 24v batteries. A pure sinewave unit would be awesome. I'm looking for a good deal on a high end used one (like a Xantrex/Trace Prosine unit). Unfortunately, 24v versions of those are hard to find used.

Here is the one I'd really like if I can find a used one:
http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Prosine-Sinewave-Inverter-Charger/dp/B0017LO0Q6
This one MIGHT start the A/C on its own.


If I cant get that one, I'll look for one of the smaller units. Still very nice and should run anything I want (other than the A/C).

quote:

Originally posted by hillbille:

quote:

Originally posted by datz510:The other upgrade is a 3500/5000w genset .

Consider a viscoelastic polymer ("QUIETCOAT")coating inside and outside the box containing the genset. Better yet would be a double wall box- that would have (3) LAYERS of Quietcoat. They claim a 20 db reduction w/ one layer.
http://www.quietsolution.com/html/quietcoat.html

"Highest performing damping coating today. Period.
Fully ROHS Compliant
No VOC’s
Meets the highest industry flammability standards
Less expensive, easier to apply, more effective, thinner, and weighs less than older technologies
Anti-fungal and anti-rust capability
Vibration damping results in less noise and vibration and reduced metal and joint fatigue."

YOu could use it as undercoating, too

Wow.. that stuff looks cool!

The generator has some really nice rubber motor mounts. The unit doesn't vibrate at all when its running. The exhaust is pretty loud right now, so thats the first thing I'll deal with.