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Ultimate N4Wheeler
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Ok, that's what I assumed at first, but then I reread Jason's post,
" I'm supposed to have hydrolic valves"

Maybe he thot wrong?


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Posts: 7283 | Location: enron by the sea,ca | Registered: July 03, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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NISSAN4WHEELER
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I hadn't even read the first post in the thread, I jumped on in the middle. If he has hydraulic lifters (which ARE self adjusting), then we're been telling him this alllll wrong.

Best way is with the engine running then, back off the rocker arm until it makes noise, then tighten it down until it quiets up, then another 1/2 turn and you're there. repear for all the valves. Setting a hydraulic system like a solid system will make for all kinds of racket, and no power.
 
Posts: 2985 | Location: Gainesville, FL | Registered: December 30, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Off-Road Warrior
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quote:
Originally posted by TheDrip:
Best way is with the engine running then, back off the rocker arm until it makes noise, then tighten it down until it quiets up, then another 1/2 turn and you're there. repear for all the valves. Setting a hydraulic system like a solid system will make for all kinds of racket, and no power.


Well guys I'll give this a shot. Because there is a lot of racket on the valves and there sure is no power. I looked up the engine specs and it seems to be that "IF" the engine is stock then it has hydraulic lifters. So that means self adjusting, right? So I'll go for it when it is running. Well it can't hurt, right?

Should I do this on a warm engine or does it matter? Also, should I start with any particular cylinder?
 
Posts: 1028 | Location: Laurel, MD | Registered: July 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Ok, well I readjusted the valves again by ear. So they are not chattering now. However, there is only a minimal gain in power at best. I might try a carb rebuild just to be sure, it is a simple 2 bbl. And there does look to be some gas that leaked past a few seals at one time. I may try to tune it on the truck first. Since the previous owner was such a grub, there is a good chance he never dialed in the crappy rebuilt carb. Man, I really like my Patrol more now than ever.
 
Posts: 1028 | Location: Laurel, MD | Registered: July 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Ace
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quote:
Originally posted by jmcallis:
What is the deal with adjusting the valves while the engine is running? A guy told be to just tighten the noisy valves down a bit when the engine is running. "The old stop when it sounds right" Any thoughts, it doesn't sound too precise


I've done this several times and it works the best in my opinion. Quick and easy, and you know you haven't over tightened them. I even have an old valve cover with the top cut out just enough to adjust the valves and prevent oil from splashing out too badly.

Also, about you having solid lifters: Only the high performance (K code) 289 engines ever came with solid lifters. So it's doubtful that your engine has them.


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Posts: 125 | Location: Vancouver BC, Canada | Registered: June 14, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Ultimate N4Wheeler
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If that engine has sat for any period of time, a carb rebuild would be a good idea.. The Edlebrock in my patrol gunks up if it sits for more than a couple months at a time due to the fuel evaporating from the carb.


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Posts: 18644 | Location: Mesa, AZ | Registered: June 23, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yeah, that is the next step. I believe the truck sat for about 7-9 years with only an occational starting.
 
Posts: 1028 | Location: Laurel, MD | Registered: July 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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