I want to get a auto brake bleeder thing, but is there anything i need to know about bleeding the brakes? Any gothas? Something about the proportioning valve?

Where can I get a brake bleeder?

You can do without a proportioning valve, but after it's all bled, drive slow and brake a couple times until you get used to it. It takes more fluid from the master to operate those big single piston wag/GM calipers, and you'll need to break in the pads against the rotors.

Did you plug of the lines when you took the truck apart, or did you let the master drain out?

Hopefully you plugged the lines, else you'll be on the bleeder screws for a long time getting the air bubble at the master worked through the system.

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Originally posted by revans2003:
Where can I get a brake bleeder?

Harbor Freight sells the Mity-Vac with a brake bleed attachment, but vaccuum bleeding is difficult unless you seal the threads on the bleeder nipples. I use the handy reservoir they give you to catch the brake fluid while I bleed them the old fashioned way- with a helper. I've seen some nifty homemade pressure-bleed setups involving a rubber plumbing cap, pressure regulator, and some air fittings, but you want to be careful doing that.

-Spike

I bought a power brake bleeder once. This one had a container, hose and fitting for your master cyl. The container got pressurized which pushed the fluid though the master cyl.

Problem was I rarely got a good seal at the master cyl. Waste of my 80 bucks.

Best way is gravity bleed. Open up bleeder valve and let the fluid slowly seep out. This is the most time consuming.

Second is a speed bleeder. Replaced your normal bleeding screw with a intergraded check valve. The check valve keeps any possible air from getting into the system.

Third. old fashioned two men truck. One inside pushing the peddle and the other opening and closing the bleed screw.

I've tried power bleeders and the speed bleeders. From my experience it's still best to do things the old fashioned way. I've had bad luck with other methods not working right.

You should always follow the bleeding sequence in your FSM. The fist cyl you bleed is the one further away from the master cylinder. Because every cars brake lines are run different it's not always the rear tires furtherest from the master cyl.

For my 95 the FSM states RR, LR, RF,LF.

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Hopefully you plugged the lines, else you'll be on the bleeder screws for a long time getting the air bubble at the master worked through the system.

I never broke the seal on the brake system until tonight when i put the new Calipers on. The brake system was only exposed to air for about 20 minutes.

Can I get away with only bleeding the front?

I have The Motive Products POWER BLEEDER



I bought over a year ago. I used it once. The residual brake fluid ate through the plastic hose. The cylinder is still good but nothing els is.

They have good selling points but pretty much a waste of money.

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Can I get away with only bleeding the front?

you could. It only takes 20 or so minutes to bleed the entire system.

I usually run 1 quart though 4 tires. It also helps flush all old brake fluid out.