I realize most of you probably don't use them, but I'm looking for any information you've got.

I sent an e-mail to Powertrax asking them about the advantages and disadvantages of the no slip VS the lock rite.

Here is there response followed by my original e-mail.
Let me know what you guys think.

FROM POWERTRAX:
Both units perform the same function when going straight. The no slip will disengage completely when going around a turn thus less wear and smoother operation. Most people do run the combination of no slip in the rear and lock right in the front. Any locker installed in the front should have unlocking axle, because of steering issues. The is always some rotation force into the front end and that will tend to effect the steering. I feel the no slip is stronger due to larger stop pins in the driver will take more abuse.

Jeff Pimental
Technical Support
Richmond Gear / Velvet Drive Marine Transmissions



MY ORIGINAL:

Powertrax,

I'm about to purchase two Powertrax products for my 97 Heep Cherokee. I only climb rocks with it, no mud, it does get driven on the street, it's not a trailer queen.
My questions and concerns are as follows.

Front Axle:
Is there a performance issue between the No slip and the Lockrite as far as traction goes.
From what I have read the main difference is the amount of noise reduction you have with the No slip.
Does the no slip grab better? If so, why?
Secondly, my major concern is the loss or inability to turn the steering wheel when on an obstacle
Does the no slip out perform the lockrite when it comes to turning while climbing rocks?

Rear Axle:
I hear horror stories of people stating while going around a turn there locker will lock and the rear of the vehicle does very bad things.
I've even read about people changing lanes and the locker locking and bouncing them to the next lane.
Does the no slip out perform the Lockrite when it comes to turning and not locking when it's not suppose to?

I don't want to be told the No slip is better so buy it, I would like to know why it's better.
I have no problems paying the extra money for the No slip, if it will out perform the lock rite. Just want to be truthfully told why it's better and what it's a better design and why it might work better for what I want to do with my Heep.

I was originally thinking a No slip in the rear and a regular lockrite in the front. Why or why not would this be a good combo considering what I want to do?

I appreciate your time, thanks for reading through all of my questions.
Sincerely,
Matthew Uhl

SO WITH THAT BEING SAID:
Let me know your thoughts on both of these, my main concern is being able to turn on the trail in 4X4, and being able to turn on the pavement in 2WD.


Please understand I realize that ARB or a selectable locker is the way to go.... but I can't afford it and am not going to spend that kind of money on my current axles when I have a set of D-44's I'm going to be putting in it. Just want to know your thoughts about lock rite and the no slip from powertrax.

I'd go the other way around - the lockrite in back and the no-slip in front.

My $02 worth.

I know a few Nissans with Lockrites in back that have no issues aside from the clicking around corners - which they're supposed to do.

I've got lockrights front and rear on my K5. The rear one doesn't bug me at all other than the occasional tire squeek if I get on the gas too much in a corner.

I've even driven back from Payson (~90 miles) with one 36 and one 35 on the back. It made it pull a bit but not too bad.

The lock right in the front however drives me insane. Anytime you are in an area with lots of traction it will pop and uload. It's noisy, shakes the whole truck and generally sounds like you're breaking something. As a result I rarely drive run in 4wd off road, however I can do any gear ratio in RWD only (4H,4L,4ultraL). If I couldn't do low range 2wd it would be a serious pain.

His problem is that he does not have unlocking hubs on the front (and the Warn conversion kit is $1000+ for some reason)... so if the front decides to lock up he's in trouble.

Go with an LSD or selectable up front then.

The front WILL lock up on you if you are running a mechanical locker. My pathy is almost impossible to steer with the front ARB locker engaged.. couldn't imagine the PITA of running a mechanical up front.

What Datz said. You can't run a front full time locker in an AWD vehicle safely.

-Spike

Well it's not full time AWD, the hubs are just always engaged.
There is no power going to the driveshaft.
Although I agree this is a concern.

Well....

Drop a grand on a manual hub kit or...

Drop a grand on an ARB and compressor.

hmmm.

Or....

Just lock up the rear and drive the truck for a while. That thing will do great with a single locker and that XJ flex.

Keith said that with the ring gear driving the pinion gear (2HI) it will keep the locker unlocked... sounds like he'll be okay.

I remember a thread where Mikey said his lockright had no issues in the front what so ever. Hard to imagine.
Long ago I started with a lockright in the front of my 95 wrangler when it had the D30 and it made me nuts! bump, grind, and not in a good way. Hard to steer. (The rear sucked too, changing lanes, making a loud 'snap' sound, etc.)
I dropped a ton of cash on the warn hub conversion and that fixed it until that exploded 1 side and parts are too spendy.
(In the rear I hated the lockright and Dana 35 so i got a Ford 9' with Detroit and it was sweet)
MY advice: get a Dana 44 with locking hubs for the front of your cherokee. Or get a selectable locker. I'd say stay away from the conversion kit.
In terms of strength, i've heard of people exploding the lockright fairly easy, but i've run one in the front of my D44 for years now and it's held up to low horsepower and big tires

I just received this e-mail from Powertrax.
Some good info, I'm surprised the No slip does not grab any better, I guess it's just more quiet.

Powertrax wrote:
The No-Slip does not grab any better than the Lock-Right. They are both lockers and do the same thing as far as locking both axles together when going straight under power. As with any locker, when you use one in a front axle and are on the throttle hard enough, it will cause a locker to stay engaged even when turning. This is just what lockers do. If you are climbing and need to turn, the fact that you are hard on the throttle, this will keep a locker engaged and you will likely experience understeer. From a strength standpoint, either one of our locker should work for you. Not sure about the horror stories you are hearing. The only time a locker in a rear axle should disengage is when you in a turn not under power. If someone is having trouble with the car switching lanes, something is not fuctioning as intended. If a vehicel is driven on the street, you do not want to use a locker in a front axle unless it has locking hubs or front axle disconnect. A locker in the front does not know if you are in 2 or 4WD so it sometimes will stay engaged and can cause steering issues on the street. I think the No-slip in the rear and lock-right in the front will work fine as long as you have locking hubs or a disconnect up front while on road.

I love my front lock right. I plan to put one in the rear. I love the auto locker. IMO I would hate to have to turn if on and off on a long trail. Plus you can not steer with an arb locked.

Jim (mudman) has had lock rights frt and rear for the last year. The one in the frt I installed first. He has no hubs and no issues when in 2wd.

He just got his rubi dana 44s tuesday. So both lock rights are for sale.

Just like PowerTrax wrote, I don't see the prob with one in the front if you still have the axle disconnect. JIM

I have an Aussie locker in front and love it. I also run a detroit locker in the rear and it is great too.

Ya... I just posted the second part as an FYI for future conversations or discussions.