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Ordering instructions:

I charge $230 with a $100 core fee. You can send in your stock CL and not have to deal with the core fee. If you pay the core fee you have 45 days to return the core to receive a refund. I am running very low on Xterra centerlink cores because I haven't received cores back.

Shipping to the lower 48 is free.

I accept paypal to the following address: grassroots4x4 at gmail dot com Please include an extra 3% if you use paypal to cover their seller fees.

I also accept check or MO. I will wait for the check to clear before sending the link.

I don't offer multiple "stages" of kits. I have never seen evidence that this is necessary. In fact, everything I have seen and experiences points to the TREs being the weak point. The TREs will act as a fuse and will break/bend WAY before you run into the kind of forces that require double sheer pitmans and idlers. I DO, however, recommend a simple idler arm brace if you plan to wheel or otherwise abuse your truck. I don't make idler arm braces.

I offer Hardbody, Pathfinder, Xterra and Frontier CLs. Give me a hollar at rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com if you are interested.

My centerlinks come shipped with all necessary hardware, including two grade 8 bolts drilled for cotter pins, two snazzy castle nuts, four washers, and two cotter pins. All hardware is heavy duty nickel or zinc plated stuff.

Installation instructions:
Remove your old centerlink
Step 1: Remove the four cotter pins securing the four 19mm castle nuts.
Step 2: Using a 19mm socket remove the four castle nuts.
Step 3: Use either a BFH or a tie rod end puller to pop loose the four ball joint studs. At this point the centerlink should be loose from both the idler arm and the pitman arm, and both tie rod ends should be out of the centerlink.
Step 4: Once the centerlink is removed please toss it back in the box, tape it up, and ship it back to me so I can make one for the next guy!
Drill the Idler and Pitman
Step 1: Decide how you want to proceed. You have a few options. You can either do it yourself or have it drilled at a machine shop for a case of beer or send it to me and I'll drill it out and ship it back to you for free.
Step 2: If you decide to do it yourself you can drill the idler and pitman arm holes using a hand drill with the arms still on the vehicle, or you can pull them off and do it in a drill press or a vise. 5/8" drill bits are available from hardware stores and big box retailers like Home Depot. You are just enlargin the stock tapered hole to 5/8" to receive the new grade 8 bolts.
Install the new centerlink
Step 1: If you removed the pitman and idler arms, replace them now.
Step 2: Place the new centerlink ends above the idler and pitman arms and drop both bolts down through one washer each and through the centerlink end and the idler and pitman holes.
Step 3: Slide the remaining two washers over the bolts and tighten the castle nuts. You will need to torque these castle nuts down 100 ft. lbs.
Step 4: IMPORTANT insert the cotter pins through the castle nut slots and through the 1/8" hole which is predrilled through the bolt, and then bend the long part of the cotter pin back over the end of the bolt, to ensure that the centerlink bolts cannot loosen.
Step 5: Insert the tie rod ends into the centerlink through the bottom, torque them down, and replace their cotter pins. If the taper is reversed and they will not insert from the bottom, flip the centerlink over.
Congratulations, you are finished. Take the vehicle in for an alignment and enjoy!

Please email me with any questions!

Here's a few pictures of the hardware that ships with kits and a couple weld shots.









 
Posts: 327 | Registered: September 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
Picture of steelx
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if its all right with you, i would like to post this on my regional xterra board. we may have a few people interested and/or in need of a new modified CL. one of them in which was burned by L&P.


 
Posts: 172 | Location: lansing, il. | Registered: November 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Ty
Wheeler
Picture of Ty
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i dont understand why you need the 100 dollar core charge?
 
Posts: 124 | Location: Washington PA | Registered: August 19, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
Picture of steelx
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you need a core to make an upgraded centerlink. the core charge is either to insure that he gets a core from a customer eventually and returns the core deposit, or can buy another core to make another CL if the customer doesnt send him the core. so that way you dont run out of the core.


 
Posts: 172 | Location: lansing, il. | Registered: November 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Ty
Wheeler
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so then if you send him your centerlink, you dont hafta pay the 100 bucks?
 
Posts: 124 | Location: Washington PA | Registered: August 19, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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NISSAN4WHEELER
Picture of Reserector
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quote:
Originally posted by hoohaa:
.....I charge $225 with a $100 core fee. You can send in your stock CL and not have to deal with the core fee.

Geez, Ty! Haven't you ever bought a rebuilt part that had a core charge? smiley35



It's a fine line between clever and stupid.
http://www.mississippi-mud.com/
 
Posts: 3797 | Location: Laurel, Mississippi | Registered: December 14, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
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Guys I know, I hate charging a core fee. But I feel that I have to because I've had real problems with people not sending back their old stock CLs. I completely understand this too, stuff happens. People get busy, etc. and sometimes the CL install gets put on hold. The core charge is just a way for me to make sure I have enough CLs that I can continue building for people without having to ride out to the junkyard.

I do refund the core fee IMMEDIATELY at the time I receive your stock core.

Thanks for asking for clarification there.
 
Posts: 327 | Registered: September 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
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quote:
Originally posted by steelx:
if its all right with you, i would like to post this on my regional xterra board. we may have a few people interested and/or in need of a new modified CL. one of them in which was burned by L&P.


That sounds great. Unfortunately I have all the orders I can take for the next couple weeks. I have a couple people on the "waiting list" now. I am trying to give folks a realistic expectation of when I can get this done. I don't want to be one of those folks who "take the money and run."

If you would, please send me a link to the site so I can answer questions, etc.
 
Posts: 327 | Registered: September 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
Picture of Kyle96HB
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Hey man i will defiantly get one this summer i just have to make some money, so Expect me to get with you around June. MY email isnt working my Cookies are screwed.
 
Posts: 243 | Registered: December 17, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
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quote:
Originally posted by Kyle96HB:
Hey man i will defiantly get one this summer i just have to make some money, so Expect me to get with you around June. MY email isnt working my Cookies are screwed.


Ok just let me know when you are ready.
 
Posts: 327 | Registered: September 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Dirt Road Driver
Picture of skrillaguerilla
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hoohaa, i will have a wd21 cl for you shortly. I upgraded my steering but i haven't installed the parts yet. let me know if you want it


Smell ya later!


1995 WD21 SE 4WD
A/C UCA's
Calimini Coils
Alpine H/U
Uniden PC-122 CB
Oil Filter Rel'n Kit
Thorley Headers hi-flo cat, Flowmaster 50 muffler
 
Posts: 85 | Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada | Registered: August 15, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
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I'll take it! Pming you.
 
Posts: 327 | Registered: September 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
Picture of steelx
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i have worn out center link from my '00 xterra, do you want it?


 
Posts: 172 | Location: lansing, il. | Registered: November 28, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Wheeler
Picture of lmhin
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I have been running a Hoohaa centerlink for about 6 months beleave me when I say its bullet proof I have tryed to break it (Sorry I know I shouldent abuse the truck) but all I have done is break a tie rod which is a weak link anyways everyone knows this.For the money hoohaa charges for his links there is nothing that comes close to it in dependability(sp) or quality just wanted to say Thanks for Picking up the slack and making a great product.


2WD Frontier Converted to 4X4 Soon to be SAS'ed

smiley22
 
Posts: 141 | Location: Rowlett Tx | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Ty
Wheeler
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i ordered mine the other day. cant wait to get it on! i'll put it on the same time i put my new uca's on so i can take it to the aligment shop once and they can align the steering and crank the t-bars and align that for me.
 
Posts: 124 | Location: Washington PA | Registered: August 19, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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