anybody know if calmini is making a pitman arm for their hardbody sas? If not, I'm going to give them a ring this weekend and find out, I need a better pitman arm.

I am curious what they are going to suggest also. I reverse reamed mine just like Datz and others have. It works perfect. Its $60 for the reamer. Partsmike did mine for free since he did all the other hi steer work.

I think the stock arm is perfect. If it was dropped anymore it would hit leaf, if your running leafs.

thanks for the help, so you put the tre in from the bottom right? how much meat did the reaming leave? and what tre's where they? 3/4 ton chevy?

If you can, you actually want to use a 1/2 ton chevy DRAG LINK end, not the tie-rod end. Allows much higher angularity. 1/2 and 3/4 ton stuff is the same. For that matter, so is the 1 ton stuff, except for the threaded body size, the joint itself is the same though.

Yep the typical high steer drag link and Tres everyone uses.

Theres tons of steel left because when you enlarge the hole from the other side only a small amount is actually removed.

see here around the nut....



If you plan to run Leafs I dont think you can make a better pitman than stock.

The Pitman lines up perfectly with the dana stuff. I have very little bump steer right now.



More pix on my sas page..

d21 sas page

Are you doing leafs or coils or coil overs?

awesome guys, that answers all my questions. oh, I'm running 48" skyjacker softride 4" chevy front springs, but the lower leaf is removed, and I'll probably trim all (except the main, of course) the other leaves to soften it once I test it.

actually, I do have one more question...any reason you didn't get two high steer arms and put the tie rod above the springs?

Good question. I read on some toyota boards the Full high steer is real hard on upper ball joints. Also hard on the 3 studs when both tres are connected there. I dont think I can bend that Tie rod. Its 1.25 DOM.

Heres a great website I used. Eriks SAS

I already bought the bigger 12mm metric dana 44 studs. He mentions. Just need to install.

Good tip Drip! I used the partsmike steering pieces. Only one Drag end on the drag link at the pitman. The other three are tres. Stock chevys have drag ends at BOTH ends of the drag link.

interesting, thanks for the help guys, I'm going to try for the tie rod on top..if I snap the studs to many times, then I guess I'll have to move it down below.

[flame suit on] since my pitman was already drilled out to 5/8" for my L&P steering, I am using a 5/8" rod end on each end of the drag link, then a stock tie rod with stock tie rod ends [/flame suit off]

just doing this to see if my avatar changed to a reasonable size

I didn't know they made 5.38's for the 9".What brand of gears are they,all I've seen is 5.43 or 5.13?

How much are you moving your axle forward, and at what amount does it become a problem with the stock steering box?

Tks...

5.38 for the 44 and 5.43 for the 9"...many 4x4's have the front turning faster than the rear for improved steering, anyway. Rule of thumb is no more than 5% difference of the gears. This is only 1%. As for the axle...I honestly couldn't tell you where it is from stock. I just cut the IFS junk and started welding... When I get a chance, I can go measure it from a fixed point on the frame if you like. I'm sick as hell right now. I can tell you, the tires are slightly forward from being centered in the wheel well. (thought being I don't give a damn about hacking off more in the front for tire clearance)

quote:

Originally posted by THEONE:
How much are you moving your axle forward, and at what amount does it become a problem with the stock steering box?

Tks...

I moved my axle about 1/2" forward of stock. But thats when the sring is flat. So I have minor rubbing with 35s at full compression and turning.

1-2" is plenty at full compression. Even without a BL.