Who is bolted and who is welded? I would like to see pics of bolt on mounts.I have BL and am trying to figure how to mount them

Well, do you plan on taking your BL off? If so, bolt on. If not, weld on. Weld on is way stronger. Plus, welded stuff is Kool! Mine are gonna be welded..

Looks like his truck has a BL on it already. But I agree with Mikey, weld it on.


"I'm just a Bill... Going up and down Capitol Hill...."

Welding is easier at first but what if you have to remove them?

Heres a link to an old post with pics of my "clamp" style mounting brackets.

Slider LInk

and another link with pics HERE!

Interesting...

Here's my idea:

Make it like a reciever...but just have 3 of them. Weld 3 pieces of 2" box steel to the frame and some slightly larger(or smaller) box steel to the sliders. Slide box steel of slider onto(or into) the steel on welded tot he frame. Then drill holes and add pins to keep them in place. Make sure you have a lock on one of the pins so some fool doens't steal them

Mr. Will "is way off-topic"

|1992 SE-V6 4x4, 2001 LE 3.5|

I think I am going to copy your design Garbacho. I like the idea of being able to remove the sliders if I need to. It will make them easier to retrofit if I do a BL later.

Sweet...

Just to clarify, I copied the design from the JSM link.

The receiver idea is a good one, but 6 receiver boxes, pins, etc is gonna be a little expensive. Plus, the thing will probably rattle on washboard roads and drive ya nuts.

Mine are welded. A smoke wrench (torch ) will take them off if the need ever arises.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock
Please help STOP urban sprawl!

I like the idea of the receivers, as well.

Regarding rattling- weld a bung on each receiver for a clinch bolt. Install the sliders, lock 'em in, and bolt them down.

We did this trick to a bud's old truck when the factory hitch started rattling on us. Worked like a champ.

If you want to go low-tech, you can duplicate the antir-rattle bit that Steel Horse includes in their hitch step, by taking a section of ABS plastic and sanding it down on one side, then shoving it between the receiver and "hitch", and securing it in place on the slider/hitch with 3M body moulding adhesive.

However- for my mooney- on my S-10 Blazer, the sliders I'm building right now are going to weld on <2X2X1/8" box for the sliders, welded to a rail-height section of 1/4" steel as close as I can get to 6" wide>I agree it'd be nice to be able to remove them in the future with a couple wrenched, but 1) I don't see anything that would have to be done to the truck that can't be done with them on, 2) if they manage to get damaged <!!!?> I've got bigger problems to worry about-- and I own a grinder anyway so I can fix it>, and 3)- and here's the clincher for me- my frame is boxed from the factory, forward of the B pillar. Trying to drill through 8" of frame, with fuel and brake lines inside, and get the holes in line on a bent area of the frame, does NOT seem a bit easier than welding.

Weld 'em.

But here's a question: I'm building sliders for a bud's pathfinder- about a 94, IIRC. Why can't I use the OEM "slider" brackets, with pieces of 2X2X1/8" bolted to them, and perhaps a section of steel welded between the frame and slider in between?

Yes, you bring up a good point. Nissan frames are fully boxed.

Not sure if the OEM step bar brackets are up to the task. They're on the flimsy side.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock
Please help STOP urban sprawl!

What does the fully boxed thing have to do with it? I am lost.

If you bolt on, you gotta drill all the way through both sides of the frame for through bolts.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock
Please help STOP urban sprawl!

Aw, ok. Now I understand.

Garb, are the bolts tight up against the inside of the frame in the design you used? It seems like they would need to be or it would rattle.

Not only that, I'd be concerned with the slider bar clamps sliding back along the frame rail, and introducing a 2X2 box section of steel into the rear tire.

Think I'll pass on bolting or clamping, unless the vehicle has no boxing to the frame. If it's not got a boxed frame, I wouldn't wheel in it anyway....

Still can't find a single good reason not to weld them. Sure, *I'M* not going to be doing the welding- I am going to have a friend who's been welding for 20 years on Nuclear Submarine hulls, do it. If he can weld HY80 and not have it crack at depth, I think he can manage a little frame section welding and not embrittle it. 8)

quote:

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Garb, are the bolts tight up against the inside of the frame in the design you used? It seems like they would need to be or it would rattle.

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They are fairly tight...not perfect but they are definitely sturdy. The 3/4" bolts make for a very tight clamp. If for some reason they slide on the frame, no biggie. Better that than the rocker panels.

You could weld a little bead or piece of steel next to the clamp to keep it from moving.