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NISSAN4WHEELER
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Now your golden. Wink
 
Posts: 3773 | Location: Preskitt | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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NISSAN4WHEELER
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Got mine today. It looks like I can do all the tapping and use my slip yoke driveshaft until I get a new one. Then all I have to do is bolt it on. I'm gonna call Steve and see what he thinks.
Lator....


 
Posts: 3177 | Location: Deltona Fl. | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
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Sweet! Now ask him where he thinks everyone should get the tap and drills needed. I got mine from a online tool source, because cobalt drills and taps are hard to find. Well, as I am typing this, a package has arrived, it is the bits and the tap. R.L. STEPHENS TOOL & EQUIP. CO. 1717 N. Raymond Ave. ANAHEIM, CA 92801 (714) 879-6637 1/16" Cobalt drill bit=$1.94, 27/64" Cobalt drill bit=$14.03, 1/2-13 Cobalt bottoming tap=$28.93 total shipped=$53.38. I went with the 1/2-13 tap size, because they didn't sell the metric taps in cobalt. Now I need the hardened bolt in the right size, and I am ready to do it.
 
Posts: 3773 | Location: Preskitt | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Ultimate N4Wheeler
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Nice. Am looking forward to hearing about the install.



1998 Frontier 4x4, 2002 Xterra 4x4, and Z28 street rocket
Pass here and go on. You're on the road to heaven - Kerouac
 
Posts: 21816 | Location: Home of the AZ runs | Registered: June 22, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
FIL
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Besides eliminating the slip yoke, is it really necesary to use a cv in the rear? I mean the distance between the output shaft and pinion yoke is pretty far, couldnt a standard 1310 U-joint work?
when you drill the shaft, do you have to have it spinning like when you cut it?
 
Posts: 170 | Location: New England | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
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You don't drill while the thing is moving, when cutting you have it spinning in reverse. But be carefull!! Nothing will stop the shaft from spinning, so if you have a sleeve or hair get caught, it will rip you apart until you are dead. SO, be extra carefull when doing this!!!
 
Posts: 3773 | Location: Preskitt | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
FIL
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I love that warning.
Calmini should use that in their instructions.
 
Posts: 170 | Location: New England | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Ultimate N4Wheeler
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quote:
Originally posted by FIL:
Besides eliminating the slip yoke, is it really necesary to use a cv in the rear? I mean the distance between the output shaft and pinion yoke is pretty far, couldnt a standard 1310 U-joint work?
when you drill the shaft, do you have to have it spinning like when you cut it?



Depends on how tall you go. At full droop if your driveline doesn't exceed more than about 30-32 degrees, you can probably get away with Ujoints. CV's are designed for steeper angles.



1998 Frontier 4x4, 2002 Xterra 4x4, and Z28 street rocket
Pass here and go on. You're on the road to heaven - Kerouac
 
Posts: 21816 | Location: Home of the AZ runs | Registered: June 22, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
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quote:
Originally posted by FIL:
I love that warning.
Calmini should use that in their instructions.
I agree. It is simple to do, but the danger is real. The shaft spins at a good rate, and you would have no time to get your shirt off or cut your hair off. It will scalp your head in a split second or rip your arm off if the sleeve gets rolled up on the shaft. If it was me, I would wear short sleeves, no gloves, and plenty of eye protection.
 
Posts: 3773 | Location: Preskitt | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Rock Crawler
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If a previous example is anything to go by, if they've already printed up a bunch of instructions, they won't make a minor change to them and re-print, or add a note or addendum to the already-printed ones either.
 
Posts: 1839 | Location: Lat 4° 32' 0S Long 154° 13' 60E | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
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I think it was a joke Wink


----------------------------
08 Titan 4x4
03 Frontier 4x4
05 Quest
 
Posts: 2937 | Location: San Diego, CA | Registered: December 03, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
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it is something they are asking you to do, and it is not safe. They need to let everyone know that it could hurt them if they do what the instructions suggest you do to cut the shaft off. The instructions are good, except they don't warn you of any possible risks involved with doing the cutting.
 
Posts: 3773 | Location: Preskitt | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
FIL
Wheeler
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who wants to give me their old slip yoke?
 
Posts: 170 | Location: New England | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Off-Road Warrior
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Got mine today. What is a "Cobalt Drill Tap"? Must be one of those new fangled things, guess I'll just use a regular tap. As a side note, step 4 says to drill the pilot and final hole to 1.375" (1 3/8) deep, which is almost exactly the length of the bolt you use to attach the flange. After subtracting the thickness of the washer and flange, right around half of the bolt will actually engage the shaft. So I guess we could either use a longer bolt (same grade or better) or not make the hole so deep. Using a standard tap will require the hole to be deeper than the bolt but using a bottoming tap will allow a shallower hole.
 
Posts: 1042 | Location: San Diego, CA | Registered: April 24, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Ultimate N4Wheeler
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"cobalt" is a much tougher material than HSS or whatever steel is used in conventional thread taps. It's just a tap for harder steel, that's all.


.....................
"Climate change is no longer science. It's politics... Climate change is also about power. Power to control.... It's about who gets to decide: how much energy we will have... where that energy will come from... what it will cost... It's about simulations, scenarios and monsters conjured up by computer models that should never be used to chart government policy -- especially on matters that will profoundly affect our livelihoods, living standards, life spans and dreams of a better future.

"So hold onto your wallets, and hope you can hold onto your homes, cars and jobs. You're about to be put on a wild political roller coaster."

- Paul Driessen, TownHall.com
 
Posts: 7133 | Location: poway,ca | Registered: July 03, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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