Dood... that's awesome.
With the added weight of the D300, is it going to be necessary to fab up another cross member and bracket to help support that weight? I'd be afraid of the aluminum housing of the trans cracking with the weight of the D300, adapter, and TX10.

This is something that I'd love to consider for Mongo, now that there's kits available,

Im not too sure about the extra weight, but I deff would make one just to add a skid plate. I wouldnt want to have to buy another one just because I hit a rock.
Lucky enough the crossmember for the torsion bar mounts sits perfectly under the D300, so it would be a matter of just trimming it to fit. I was thinking of adding a bump stop under the case on the crossmember so that it would just take the weight off and protect it too. Another bonus is the stock skid plate from the transfer case also fits on, just some minor tweeking. The front driveline is much better now too, its much longer then stock was and the rear is only about 1/2 inch shorter. They are close in length now, just by eyeball at the moment.

Wow the rear shaft is that similar. Thats very cool.

I guess I should rephrase that, The rear is 1/2 inch shorter then the stock one. I will be measuring tommorow for DS size, I hope to find a couple at the junkyard that are close enough. Its nice that you can do bolt in DS now. The stock waggy one is almost long enough to bolt in.

Got some more work done. For those asking if this will fit on your IFS truck, well, not if you like your torsion bars. With 3" body lift and the torsion bar drop, maybe.
I started to cut in hopes that I would have some steel left, but it still needed more trimming after I got thru most of what holds the cross member together. So Im just making a skid plate at the same time. I will reinforce the plate and then cut off the middle of the cross member. Save a couple of pounds at the same time.

I managed to do this with my doubler set-up last week-end. I realize our transmissions are very different but a $9 bushing for extra support could have saved me a trail ride and a few hundred dollars.

For the most part there is lots of people that get away with non supported doublers, but because a second mount is so simple and cheap its good insurance.

Thank you. That is EXACTLY what I was concerned would happen.

That is a lot of weight unsupported off the trans case.

Just need to add a bushing for the doubler to rest on. Have to make it easy to take off. This plate covers the entire d300, adapter and up to the existing tcase. I will cut the old skid and bolt it on.

Well, Its drivable. I need to clean out the garage and stuff before I can try it out. But It works without the DS's in.

Well, got everything nipped up today.
Made some drive shafts

Shifter boots and ends.

Test fit the shifters.

Installed the shafts and linkages
Oh the shifting power. They are close but shift fairly smooth

There are rubber boots and they are fastened/sealed to the floor. My setup shifts from the rear, the linkage runs under the D300 to the back of the tcase. So I have a slightly different shifter placement.

So, who was first to get theirs running/drivable? Bill is yours done?

not me...waiting on drive shafts (monday i hope)....then time to drop it put the seal in and fill it with oil.

Not happening this week.

I drove around the block last night, holy low gears batman. If your not smooth on the gas, it gets jerky real fast. I can climb ditches and rocks without using the pedals, it just goes and goes. I found there is very little difference if I give it gas or not, it really wont go any faster with reving at 1000 rpm or 3500 rpm, not that I could notice anyway.
I still have a couple of things to tighten up/adjust, but its drivable now.

Oh and for thous looking for a cheap set of drive shafts.
Find a ford expoloder, low to mid 90's, they have a yoke to yoke rear DS, its a little long but it has a 4-5" Slip shaft built in and the correct ujoint to go to the D300. You will need to weld on the nissan end to get it to fit.

For the front, I found the late 80's early 90's cheby blazers/s10s front shaft have the correct ujoints on both ends, a slip joint (Only 3") and it actully bolted in without any extensions, but it was at the end of its slip shaft so I added 1 1/8" to it.

I need to find what vehicals have the correct CV end to bolt to the D300, if you find one let us know. Thanks. for now its Ujoint ends.

What is your estimate pricewise on this project?

Cost Breakdown.

D300 $150
Rebuild Seals $23
Adapter $937 (Shipped)
JY Shifters/boots/Driveshafts $28
Gear oil $13
Vent fittings and hose $13
Paint $5
Bolts $5
-----------------------------------
Totals for everything $1174

Although I did get lucky on the D300, it was in fairly good shape and all it needed was some seals. Scrap steel that was around my garage, may cost some one a extra 10-30 bucks, but I got from past projects. If your gear oil is in good shape, I would just toss it back in and then use it to flush out the case later. The rest is prices that everyone can find and be able to do.

Man, I thought that adapter was only supposed to be around 5 bills or so... ouch.

quote:

Originally posted by Hillclimber:
Cost Breakdown.

D300 $150
Rebuild Seals $23
Adapter $937 (Shipped)
JY Shifters/boots/Driveshafts $28
Gear oil $13
Vent fittings and hose $13
Paint $5
Bolts $5
-----------------------------------
Totals for everything $1174

Is that Canadian $ or the US $?
Lator....