Looks nice and clean Dana.
Nice job!
Are you participating in the modified group challenge at ECXC?

Looking good! Congratulations its not an easy task!!!

I 2nd on the waggy springs. They are extremely soft and very flexible. However they are very thick. I have full high steer with 1" spacers and I'm still running a 1/2" on the tie rod to clear the leaf springs.

I'm also looking into the 4044 with sas, I'll probably take a leaf out or two so I'm not so tall.

stock Toy rears up front...keep it low, push the front almost 2" foward and flex like crazy, I'll never put any other leafs up front.

Well the SAS is almost complete. Took it out today for a shakedown run. For the most part it went well. Still need to work on a few things.

I didn't get to flex it out as much as I wanted too but here are a few pics.







On the way out, the drive shaft took a shit. On level ground with no stress on it.

I overflexed a few of my CVs and snapped a few caps. There all rebuildable. You can get the spicer parts seperately and rebuild as needed. I have always just needed new caps.

Make sure the shaft is not bottoming out when suspension bottoms out.

Looking good. I'm looking foward to adding it to the SAS thread.
Lator....

quote:

Originally posted by nissannut:
I overflexed a few of my CVs and snapped a few caps. There all rebuildable. You can get the spicer parts seperately and rebuild as needed. I have always just needed new caps.

Make sure the shaft is not bottoming out when suspension bottoms out.

Yeah when I did your mod on the Cherokee drive shaft, I allowed some room for up travel towards the T-case. I'm not sure why it failed when it did unless I hit it on something earlier in the ride and damaged it.

Looking good Dana!

Its your Driveshaft causing the clicking. I had the same issue on my truck and pathy right before the U joint caps broke.

quote:

Originally posted by nissannut:
Its your Driveshaft causing the clicking. I had the same issue on my truck and pathy right before the U joint caps broke.

So did you do anything different to it when you replaced it? I'm going to tear into tonight and see shat all broke.

Nope. I personally caused the U joints to fail. The 1310s are bullet proof for me. I broke all mine on design flaws. Driveshaft hitting the crossmembers or frame on the truck caused most of my issues.

On the pathy I had one CV u joint failure after I overflexed on the ramp. The next day I heard clicking for a few hours. then bang my shaft fell off.

I recently added a limit strap to prevent this. Since that first trip/failure I have wheeled it 5 times no issues. I did some light wheeling this weekend. Never replaced a U joint yet in 3 years. only caps.

Well it looks like I will have to use my spare shaft and rebuild this one. The end is trashed when it spun into everything under the X.

I'm just wondering if I had enough up travel on the shaft. We left a little over an inch when we welded it together. The problem is when I went to install it, I snapped one of the damn bolts off in the yoke. I got a another yoke off a buddy of mine but it was a little longer. It decreased the up travel I have. I just wonder if that could have caused it or the really old U joint.

Here's some more pics of the build.

CLICK ME

Sounds like you did not have enough slip in the shaft. When you have the next shaft made get a extreme slip shaft. Tom woods is a good place for shafts.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:
Sounds like you did not have enough slip in the shaft. When you have the next shaft made get a extreme slip shaft. Tom woods is a good place for shafts.

I think I'm going to have the local machine shop build me one. They can do it for about $300 in a day.

Which is better though, the 2 joint type or the CV type? I'm running the CV type right now as per Barry's idea.