I just got everything tacked into place and the truck is sitting on the springs now...

I relocated the stock lower links (~20") up to the top as the new upper links.. and built some new 31.5" links for the lowers. A quick flex test with no springs yeilded rear axle articulation of approximately 25-30 degrees relative to the body. FEAR!! The rear axle is now recentered in the wheel well at ride height... which means it moved back about 1.5-2" from the stock configuration (at 6" of lift). I also built in 4 different settings for the upper links, so I can determine what pinion angle and link angle will work best.

The *axle tube ends* now have well over 3 feet of articulation travel before the bushings bind up. With tires on, its probably around 3.5 ft with no springs. With springs installed, it'll probably be around 2 feet, mabye slightly more. It will also droop as far as you dare to let it. I will be running some spring guides on the rear axle spring seats to allow the axle to separate from the spring under extreme articulation, and then guide the springs back to the seat when the axle comes back up. I'm also going to NEED limiting straps. Should be pretty neat.

The long arm modification was fairly easy.. and cost me a total of $30 for the DOM tubing for the new lower links. I started the mod this morning and its now sitting back on the springs again. I just need to finish weld all the frame side brackets that I installed. I also havent decided if I will be keeping the length of the new lowers.. I may hack off about 6" and move the lower mounts further back on the frame, as I feel I will probably be knocking the links on the rocks a lot.

This is a first of its kind mod.. and is something that others can do, as there is NO axle modifications required.. and total cost for the steel needed is around $30. This mod reuses the original tube link ends.

Pics will be uploaded tommorrow when its finished.

This thing should max out about any RTI ramp, given it gets some help staying shiny side up. On the trail, it should be pretty awesome.

Wow! That's awsome. I'm gonna have to come down to Mesa to see this beast this afternoon. I need to come down anyway and have you weld up a quick jerry can mount adapter for my spare tire mount for the sheep. Let's see those pics!

yes pictures please!

along with the pics, measurements of where the link mounts are located relative to their old position would be really usefull to someone who wanted to do this.

Now thats going to look sweet

Here are the pics!!

Here was the truck as of this afternoon:


A view of the upper link mounts. The box steel that they are mounted to is 2x3x.250"wall. All bracketry is made from 1/4" plate.


Blingin spring guides to help the springs find their seat when the axle falls away from the springs. Also, I found out that my Rancho RSX 9116 shocks are too short.. too bad too, because I bought them brand new.. never wheeled. I used some 14" travel shocks that Brian had left over.. they are a little too soft though.


View of the rear suspension looking back:


Lower link, frame side mount:


From the rear:


Here is the truck flexed a little on some tires.. didnt have anything else to drive up on.. but this is just a sample of the travel that this gives.





The suspension when slightly articulated:




My steering is gettin a little close.. might have to notch the frame a little in the near future.

And.. the big question is..

How does it drive??

Well, the truck handles beautifully.. There is NO squat on takeoff.. and the roll center appears to be high enough still that the truck barely leans when turning. Driving down the road, it drives smooth, straight, and has no slop in the rearend. There is no axle wrap at all. In fact, it drives just like it did before.

I'm getting a little creaking and other funny noises from the links in the back, but I think the bushings may just be shot. This setup will at least make it through AZ Run.. Cant wait to get it all twisted up on the rocks!

One other thing I will be doing is adding some armor to the underside of the links to help prevent them from bending when contacting rocks.

Looks real good John. Are you going to need a new driveshaft now?

Yeah, I'll need to have mine lengthened for now until I can get the SYE installed.. Brian had problems putting in his, so Im gonna wait a little while to put mine in.

Did you have to lengthen your driveshaft?

edit beaten

Looks good john

The driveshaft will have to be lengthened by about 3". It just barely works for now.. but I'll need to have that done this week, as its only grabbing by about 2" of splines.

The next step will be to build new links with some joints at the ends to prevent the binding and bushing slop from occurring.

WOW...very impressive...


Jon is it even worth me relocating my lower link mounts as my lower links are already 28 1/2" long? think i can get away with just making all the links a couple of inches longer?

Making the uppers longer will really help you.

My link tubes are 31.5" long.. the lower links themselves eye to eye are closer to 34"

quote:

Making the uppers longer will really help you.

facing that 3rd upwards, eh?