No.. hack off the stock upper frame side mounts.. and make new ones further forward. THe uppers are what limits the stock suspension.. but you need unequal length links to get adequate anti-squat.

That looks great! Can't wait to see it on the trail. I spent all day working on my SYE and it's still not done. I've got another 1/2" to hole to drill and then tap it. I'll be out of town all week so I hope to finish it and Saturday.

quote:

upper frame side mounts

i get what your saying.. a lot less room on my rig since my gas tank is over there, good job on your links, though the lower mounts (frame side) look like they will double as skids nicely

Chuck, What kind of drill bits did you use and where did you get them? The bits we had didnt do anything on Brian's T case shaft.

quote:

Originally posted by System-F:

quote:

upper frame side mounts

i get what your saying.. a lot less room on my rig since my gas tank is over there, good job on your links, though the lower mounts (frame side) look like they will double as skids nicely

Hehehe.. yeah, they are a little long. I may redo them about 5-6" shorter if these dont work out. I will fully armor them before the run though, as the trails we are doing will eat them for dinner otherwise.

Sweet mother of flex!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pathy, come get some FLEX!

The instructions say to cut off the last 1/4" of the shaft but the dimple in mine is 1/2" deep so I didn't bother to cut anything off. I was also worried about damaging the t-case or getting shavings in it.

I read a post where someone was talking about Terance (I think) doing his and using masonary bits to get past the hardened area so I decided to try it from the start. I'm using three different sizes. The smallest is 3/16, one slightly larger, and one large enough to clear an area to start the final bit 27/64(?) Sorry I don't know the sizes. Between finishin up the timing belt, putting up a fence, and spending too many hours working on the transfer case it's been a long day and tomorrow starts at 3:30. Anyway, I've been using a lot of oil but the masonary bits seam to cut best as the oil starts to burn away. Sometimes they stop cutting and a little wiggle is needed to start them again. The best part is they come in packs of 5 or 6 that are dirt cheap compared to Cobalt bits. The few times I tried the cobalt bits I didn't have much luck but I'll use them for the final cut at least. The cobalt bits don't work all that well without a pilot hole. I hope my new driveshaft is here when I get it done.

Oh, and I'm using a pneumatic drill with somewhere around 1200 rpm.

ok.. We started with the cobalt bits.. and they wouldnt even scratc the surface. I'll go pick up a bunch of masonry bits and see if I can get mine drilled.

Oh yeah.. the Pirate ship is getting some very piratey limiting straps too.. Got some chain from ACE and some chain carabiners. I'll be running chain from the frame down to the axle ends to keep the axle from ever dropping too far letting the springs pop off the spring guides.

I'm going to need the chains too if I ever get a flat, as I'll have to move the carabiner up 3-4 links so that the frame can lift the axle with the hilift under the truck.

The pirate ship is gonna clink and clank all the way down the trail.. Yarrrr

Pathy on steroids

PLEASE write down the specs on that. For future use...

Just make limiting straps out of old seatbelts

After having seen it flex on Saturday, I'm completely convinced that the Pirate Ship will flop with all four tires still in contact while ramping an RTI ramp. In other words, John's articulation is limited by his center of gravity, not his suspension. So John, you up for testing my theory?

EDIT: Once you get the wristed radius arm in the front you'll be able to do that.

The rear diff breather line needs to be a little longer. Looks great.

Lol yeah, I know. There are still a few loose ends I gotta tie up.. The biggest thing is the parking brake. Gotta figure out how to make them work and not limit the flex.